Love the Shark Antenna. Kinda Pricey!Fun:
Shark Fin antenna:
Beat-Sonic FDA9T Functional Shark Fin Antenna
The part number FDA9T-8T5 is for "Blue Ribbon Metallic"... but check your specific paint code for Blue Crush, looks like it's 8W7.
So I'd give them a call and see if they can get an FDA9T-8W7
Another 10 minute install.
When something goes bad:
I just ordered new housings and am going back to Halogens on my Tacoma.7. HID conversion on headlight and fog lights (when i really need illumination on dark winding roads trips)
oh yah i know that. that is why i said i only use it when i really need illumination. and you hardly need it when you are in road with traffic or street lights. the HIDs on my lows are well enough for regular use. but thak you for reminding me though.I just ordered new housings and am going back to Halogens on my Tacoma.
After 3 years I'm tired of dealing with the issues that come with aftermarket Chinese HID units.
The units from Theretrofitsource are as good as it gets... and my high beam switched lead is unplugged because they stick, I've replaced the both ballasts 4 times, and I had a harness go bad. They've upgraded the harness design so THAT shouldn't happen again...
But I don't like having to pull off the freeway and get dirty fiddling with the things in the dark when my headlights suddenly decide to stop working.
I actually carry two spare ballasts and a spare relay switch box.
And PLEASE don't run those HIDs in the fog housings on the road if there's another vehicle within a half mile.
Aside from CHP cracking down on them, they are extremely irritating and dangerous to other drivers.
The fog housings have no shield over the front... you're putting a freaking arclight up front.
#7 what kit did you use? Are you using it with the stock projectors?best too keep it simple. i did few accessories on my rav.. most of it are functional accessories, as i call it. here are the things i bought my rav.
1. mud guards
2. weathertech floormats
3. side window wind deflector (very useful in parking in baking heat weather or chilly night drives)
4. door handle chrome cover (just want to keep my door handles from scratches)
5. door cup clear plastic cover (prevents scratches from your finger nails)
6. LED lights with interior lighting
7. HID conversion on headlight and fog lights (when i really need illumination on dark winding roads trips)
8. switch back LEDs on front signal lights
still have to buy
1. body side moulding (saving up for these)
2. front bra (when going on a long road trip so i wouldn't worry of messing up my front bumper due to stone chips and bugs)
3. clear hood deflector (looking and saving for this; for long road trips as well)
with the head light, i replaced the stock halogen with DDM HID kit. used 9005 4300k 35W HID. also used H16 with the same rating for the fog lights. So far this setup/combo works very well for me. but again, i only use the fog light when i need more illumination.#7 what kit did you use? Are you using it with the stock projectors?
#8 pictures or explanation?
That's awesome. 4300k 35w is factory.with the head light, i replaced the stock halogen with DDM HID kit. used 9005 4300k 35W HID
Yup am aware if it. At first i installed 55w HIDs on my fogs. i thought of this since its just gonna be a back up and will not be ON for extended time.. only when i need it. so i took the car for a spin for a couple of days and tested my combination (35w lows and 55w fogs). Then i noticed the top part of the reflector on my fogs has started to wrinkle and show signs of being burned. that it when i realized that 55w was producing too much heat for the the fog reflector to handle. so i switched it to 35w. and since then the wrinkling on the fogs did not progressed. so i concluded that 35w is good for the fogs and no more than that.That's awesome. 4300k 35w is factory.
Keep an eye on the fogs. The HID are normally lower wattage, but the burners run hotter. The problem with our fogs is that the factory lamps are not the standard H16, which is 55w... They are a 35w lamp withthe H16 base.
A few have reported damage to the housings after running auto parts store H16 lamps.
Maybe as a test, put the stock lamp back into one of the housings, run them for an hour or so, and take a temperature reading on them to compare... Or use the back of your hand to get a comparison... Check the face as well as the socket area. If the temperatures are comparable, then you're golden.