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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Did my first oil change and took a few pics.

Mileage: 5,000mi (the next will be at 10k and approx every 10k after that, depending on use)
Engine: 2ARFE -2.5 liter

Parts:
Oil: 4.6 Qts - TGMO 0W-20
Oil Filter: 04152-YZZA1
Oil drain plug gasket: 90430-12028


Tools:
14mm 3/8" drive socket
2" extension
3/8" ratchet (breaker bar optional)
Torque wrench (optional)
64mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
oil drain pan - at least 5 qts

nitrile gloves
rag

Torque Specs:
Oil drain plug torque: 40 N-m, 30 ft-lb
Oil Filter housing torque: 25 N-m, 18.44 ft-lb.
Filter drain plug torque: 12.5 N-m, 9.2 ft-lb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The oil pan drain plug is 14mm. I recommend using a 6 pt vs. a 12 if you've got one.
I used a small breaking bar but really didn't need it. Then I use a socket extension and the 14mm socket to unscrew by hand. Once the oil has started to drain, I remove the oil fill cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I've got 2 oil drain pans so I can get started on the oil filter. If you've only got one, wait until the the oil pan is finished draining and replace the plug, then move the pan under the filter.
Remove the filter drain plug with a 3/8" socket extension, The housing might want to turn while you're doing this so usually a quick torque on the plug will break it free, or you can try to get your other hand up there to hold it. Removing this plug usually results in a small amount of oil but most of it comes out while you're trying to jam the plastic spout in there. I always make a mess so I have plenty of rags around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Once the filter housing has finished draining, pull the plastic funnel out sideways and it will take the o-ring with it. Use the filter housing wrench, ratchet, and socket extension to slowly remove the filter housing. This assembly uses a large o-ring so it feels unusual while unscrewing. The housing isn't usually very hard to get off unless you had a service department gorilla change your oil the last time and he over-torqued it. From the factory, it is not very tight. It doesn't need to be as I've mentioned, it uses an o-ring to seal.
Once you've loosened the housing, tip what's left of the oil into your drain pan.
Take the assembly over to your work bench for filter element removal and cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I took a few extra pics for you amateur tribologists. Super clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I cleaned up the housing inside and out and replaced the filter. The instructions on the side of the filter box says to remove the old o-ring by hand to make sure you don't damage the housing threads. I'm sure the guys at the dealer do this.
One thing I do different that isn't in the instructions is I replace the drain plug, (with new o-ring) now by hand and add a little fresh oil to the filter.
Make sure you oil the new o-rings.
 

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When it is time for an oil change, I make sure the engine is hot. Usually I do this on the weekend. When I get home from work on a Friday night, I pull the drain plug and let it drain all night. The next morning I install the drain plug and replace the filter. Since we have two vehicles, time is not cramped to get it running quickly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Screw the housing back onto the car, make sure you start it by hand and don't cross thread it. You will need the ratchet to screw it the rest of the way, I recommend doing it slowly, you really don't want to risk tearing the o-ring. This takes a few moments, it's a long way. Once the housing bottoms out, it stops; definitely don't overtorque it. The protrusion on the filter should be just past the little feeler. The housing says torque is 25N-m which is 18.44ft-lb.
Once that's done I go back and tighten the filter drain plug. Torque spec is 12.5N-m or 9.2ft-lb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, the oil pan has had plenty of time to drain and it's time to re-install the pan drain plug. My gasket (washer) stayed on the pan so I decided since this was a short interval drain I would just reuse it. Usually I'm pretty good about replacing them, especially for a 10k OCI.
I've included a pic so at least you can see what a new gasket one looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I double-check everything under the car and add 4 qts of oil and about 1/4 of the 5th qt.
This is my first change on this car. The manual says 4.6qts but I like to see for myself exactly how much it takes.
I'm using a funnel since this car is super clean and I'd like to keep it that way. I need to get a better style one for this car though.
Put the cap back on and start 'er up. I've always looked at the oil pressure light to see how long it takes to go out after a change, this one was on about 1-2 seconds. By the way, my start-up rattle was even worse than usual :(.
This oil is hard to see on the dipstick, I have better luck reading it by letting the car sit for a few hours, then I'll add whatever oil I need to take it to the top line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Later I'll take the oil to Walmart for recycling, hmm, maybe take the long way...
 

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Look what I got today from my local oil change place:

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1440213943.478253.jpg

Watched the tech from start to finish and even got to keep the container with the extra oil left in it as a souvenir even though you pay for only what you use! Filter element wasn't OEM.

BTW, I am following the six month schedule - I drive in the 'big city'! ?
 

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If they are going to give me free oil changes and tire rotations for the first two years, I am going to have them do it. After that then I will do my own oil changes.
 

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I do not have my Rav4 yet but have a question about the oil change on a 2015? It doesn't look as though there is a splash guard to remove to get at the filter and drain plug? Is that true? I usually like to do my first oil change myself fairly soon after I buy a new vehicle. Thanks.
 

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From what I saw of my oil change there are no guards to remove before working on the filter or the drain plug on a '15 RAV.

My '12 Highlander did have a guard covering the oil filter though.
 

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I do not have my Rav4 yet but have a question about the oil change on a 2015? It doesn't look as though there is a splash guard to remove to get at the filter and drain plug? Is that true? I usually like to do my first oil change myself fairly soon after I buy a new vehicle. Thanks.
I did mine last week at 7500 miles and there is no splash guard. Just make sure you have an excellent oil filter wrench to remove the plastic oil filter canister since the factory has a 300 kg Gorilla tightening them on at the factory. I am not a fan of a plastic oil filter canister so I replaced mine with the older aluminum canister like many others have done.

If you use the FloTool Utility Funnel (007997610717 less than $3) from Walmart, and cut off the small tip, it will then screw into the engine valve cover perfectly eliminating the need to hold the funnel. The red flexible extension will still attach to the funnel if needed.

Frank 2015 Rav4 XLE with 7550 miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Francesco, I will look for that funnel.
I've had a plastic filter housing on my 4Runner for 5 years and it's still in perfect condition. It looks to be a high quality thermoset plastic.
As others have said, no engine covers to remove.
 

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Getting ready to do this for the first time on my 2015 RAV4, and wanted to know whether it's possible (and recommended) to add some oil to the new filter when installing it back into the engine? I wasn't sure how this would work with a cartridge type filter as I am used to adding oil into a spin on type filter...Thanks
 

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I always add oil to the filter to minimize the dry-start. It is not a problem with my 2015 Rav4 since the cartridge container is vertical and is no different from a spin on filter, the hands just need to be a little steadier when installing the full cartridge on the engine..

Frank 2015 Rav4 XLE AWD with 7900 miles
 
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