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Discussion Starter #1
My son has a 2016 Rav4.
2 weeks ago at Toyota dealership he had a reman alternator and a aftermarket battery put in due to multiple warning lights on panel.
Just happened again yesterday. No dim lights exterior or interior, radio?power windows work, turns over fine....Toyota picking it up to run codes.
I dont know cars but am attempting to research whats up. Have seen one Primary Light (engine) can trigger others to light up, but why the Engine light in the first place???
Also read someone had a similar problem and codes read were: P2401/P2402/P2419/P0456/P043F/P043E (no idea what these mean)
Said Toyota has been selling cars with faulty emissions and no recall. After $$$repairs lights may still come on!

wondering if someone knowledgeable can share their wisdom...appreciated!

-Mom who is states away from son
 

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Discussion Starter #2
UPDATE: 2nd day in shop....Fuse blew....apparently this happened the first time in shop too...first time they replaced fuse/alt/battery and all seemed fine...2 weeks later dash lights came on again....Alt/Bat fine...fuse has blown a couple of times, they said something about having 2 fuses, they would remove the one that seems to blow but they other one would drain the voltage levels (alt or battery?), when they put the other fuse in it would blow
Now they are tracing wire and running a diagnostic today....thinking its a short somewhere

HELP! Any suggestions are helpful and worth listening to. my son is nervous about driving his car home for spring break (8 hours)....should I be nervous??? HELP!
 

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Lets start with some basics:

Original owner? Purchase date and current mileage? Still in 3/36 or 5/60 warranty? Any additional coverage (CPO, Platinum plan, etc.)?

You say "turns over" but won't start? Did the dealer read out and report to your son the codes that prompted the dash lights? What exactly did they say was wrong to warrant replacing BOTH battery and alternator at once?

You listed a whole bunch of Evaporative Emissions codes. Your guessing or what's actually wrong with the car?

Everything was fine for 2 weeks... Then a fuse blew. Did they identify which fuse? Sure sounds like a short.... Could be a bad replacement alternator. Or rodent damage, or....

Report back in detail what they have to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To answer your questions first:
Bought used in May/June in RI, not first owner
car is in a different state do not know mileage
out of warranty

It did turn over and start
codes were told to me, his Mom
Ill explain below why the alternator and battery needed to be replaced-both were reading low voltage at first appt.

I was guesing...I found the searching on the internet for auto problems is almost as dangerous as searching for medical things....sometimes you get hooked on the wrong things while trying to take a stab at the problem......my bad, i was grasping at straws to try to help remedy this problem (and the second trip to the dealership) Silly, non-mechanic me!!

Yes, all of your thoughts were everything they were looking for as the cause of the problem.

Then they looked at the car fax and saw that the dealership I had bought the car from had replaced the headlight assembly, NO accidents, but replaced them for some reason. (The dealership fixing the car said this is a very hard place to get to, usually only if the car was in an accident or they are doing something with the headlights) they went into this area while looking for the short based on what the car fax had said.

They found the problem when they looked there! The AD1Connector(Pre Collision Connector-which my sons car does not have on his model) was disconnected....and we never had a problem until winter time with all the wetness...it corroded the piece and shorted out the fuse which drained the alternator and battery. the first time it was in the shop they replaced the fuse/alt/batt($700) and it seemed good to go...only until the fuse burned out again and made all these problems occur again(will be another $550).

The battery is currently charging at 12.89 which they say is fine for a 4 cylinder, and the alternator is at 13.8 which falls between the 13.7-15 that I was told is normal. Have no idea what the voltages will read once they get the 2 housing plates ordered and replaced, if they will go up or not (?)

Now, I have to approach the dealership I purchased it from to see if they will make this right.....not sure they will fess up to this because Ive had the car 8 months now. Even if a mechanic checked it over before we bought it, (which we should have done) I doubt he would have looked here to find this.......

I truly appreciate your reply!!! I know going to dealership can be arip off and I'm sure those prices are high, but when Momma is 8 hours away....piece of mind is priceless.....we did start this entire process at a local mechanic where my boy is and they ran codes and promptly told my son to take it to Toyota.

Thank you for listening and offering your helpful words!!

-$1,000 later and upset that this was not our fault!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wondering if Car fax's show all work done at any shop.
Have to call original dealership to see if they'll make things right and cover any if not all of these repairs, but have a feeling, because of the time that has lapsed, they might say they don't know who has worked on the car or who may have been in that headlight area. Am hoping the car fax would state that to help my case.


Thoughts?

Heffie
 

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I get it. We sent Daughter #1 off to college with a 2.5 year old CPO Honda and Daughter #2 is nearing that age too now. Lots of worry!

I'm disturbed by the thought that a short in any system would result in sufficient sudden draw to kill both the alternator and battery. While it's true that a conventional wet cell battery that is fully depleted can be highly compromised to the point of needing replacement, an alternator should be able to take quite a beating without harm. Eventually the fuse for the corroded circuit blew, and that should have been the end of the draw.

If I have time in the next day or two I'll take a peek at the electrical schematics for the Pre-Collision module that sits behind the grill. I'm still wondering about the dash lights too.

But lets assume that the shop rightfully concluded that real damage was done, and both had to go. Then the event occurs again two weeks later because they didn't address the real root cause. Is that now your problem? $550 was just to go looking for a corroded connector? Or did they have to replace components yet again?

To be honest, this is why I buy extended warranties on young used vehicles. This is a perfect example of a fishing expedition on your wallet. If they had to answer to Mother Toyota for their follies, they'd have looked deeper on Day 1, or be eating the cost on the return visit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I asked them why this wasn't seen at the first visit, and they said that replacing the fuse/alt/batt seemed to remedy the problem.
So, are you saying they should have looked further into this? Maybe determined the reason the fuse blew???

I wish I was more knowledgeable about this, but like most, I am at the whim of the mechanics, and asking for opinions on social media to get a warm fuzzy about places that are 8 hours away.

I so appreciate you giving your advice and realize you are doing this without actually seeing the car.

Don't know where to go from here to try to have someone make this right, financially:
should i approach the current Toyota dealership about them not looking further into this the first time?
should I approach the Toyota dealership I purchased the car from that I have the car fax for showing they went into the area that sits behind the grill where this corroded connector was found?

I am not one to point fingers and would gladly pay for anything I feel was my fault....don't think this is the case here.

Thanks for your continued input.....I look forward to seeing your comments in my inbox!

Heffie
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I asked them why this wasn't seen at the first visit, and they said that replacing the fuse/alt/batt seemed to remedy the problem.
So, are you saying they should have looked further into this? Maybe determined the reason the fuse blew???

I wish I was more knowledgeable about this, but like most, I am at the whim of the mechanics, and asking for opinions on social media to get a warm fuzzy about places that are 8 hours away.

I so appreciate you giving your advice and realize you are doing this without actually seeing the car.

Don't know where to go from here to try to have someone make this right, financially:
should i approach the current Toyota dealership about them not looking further into this the first time?
should I approach the Toyota dealership I purchased the car from that I have the car fax for showing they went into the area that sits behind the grill where this corroded connector was found?

I am not one to point fingers and would gladly pay for anything I feel was my fault....don't think this is the case here.

Thanks for your continued input.....I look forward to seeing your comments in my inbox!

Heffie
Wish I knew "Mother Toyota" person
 

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As a seasoned engineer and car guy, I do expect some of the 'why' questions to be addressed. I'm generally not in favor of just swapping parts on any system without knowing that due diligence was done to ensure that 'whatever happened' won't happen again. And if it does happen again, shouldn't there be some shared responsibility?

Unfortunately, it's unlikely that you will ever know the entire story of what was done and why, or get any of the parties to fess up to the fact that mistakes were made in their process. This is a long distance triangular relationship between two dealerships and you. I'm sure it would come out differently if we could lock the three of you into a room for an hour! It really depends a lot on how much your time and raised blood pressure is worth, or if you just want to absorb the loss at this point.

Last option would be to open a case with Toyota and see if they might lean on the dealerships to work it out. If the original work that caused the failure was done under warranty and Toyota paid, Customer Service might be willing to push the two dealerships to settle. BUT... You have to approach this nicely. Smiles and kind words (yes, I'm suggesting that you suck up just a little!) go a long way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks! Just had current dealership send me the paperwork from the first visit...they sent the invoice only, so what I was charged for at that initial visit. I sent another email requesting the mechanics notes and what made him come to the conclusion of why he did the repair he did....she probably realizes I'm phishing into this now.....I have no problem sucking this up, if need be. I just hate that someone may be taking advantage of less knowledgeable people and would want the original seller to be aware of crossing all the "T's" (and making sure wires are all connected after getting the car ready to sell), in a nice way of course. I don't like to point fingers, BUT i also don't like being taken advantage of if that's the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
FYI...repair place had engineer come in to look at repair....receptionist said he is almost certain that this blown circuit and corrosion (and she said one of the wires were burned....she said 2 wires burned would have required the car to not be worked on at all until engineer saw it :( ) , were the cause of the: 1. fuse blown, 2. battery replaced, 3. alternator replaced, 4. dash lights

Praying we don't have any recurrence especially with son driving home in 2 weeks for 8 hours!!!

Called dealership I purchased from in RI and Pre Owned General Mananger totally disreguarded me...just kept saying "did you but an extended warranty" and when I answered 'No" he tapped out....didnt even entertain the Car Fax details about his dealership putting in headlights and going into that area, an made me feel stupid, by saying "youre talking about a pre owned vehicle that you purchased and did not buy the extended warranty for....thats why we offer extendewd warranties" and " this is a car that you bought in one state (RI), you reside in another state (CO) and the car is physically in a third state(KS)...' Guess he was insinuating that you should only buy from a state you reside in or somehting ridiculous like that! And it sounds like a scam from his prospective, that you buy an extended warranty and the mechanics that prep the car can be as lax as they want!! NO ownership of any wrong doing on his part AT ALL I realized it was a shot in the dark, but he did not have to be so insulting to me, he could have explained it in a nicer way.

waiting on the parts to come in.....
 

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Again, I strongly advise that you call Toyota Customer service and open a case. Have them call the dealers and be the moderator/arbitrator on your behalf.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We are in the process of doing just that. Thanks for your help, know that you are a good person and helped someone who was in need of your knowledge! Kudos!

Heffie
 

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We all need a helping hand from someone with more experience or understanding at some point in our lives. Next time / subject it will be your turn to do the good deed! Everyone has a skill that they can share. But thank you for the kind words.

Yes, that connector sure looks nasty. To the right is what looks like a matching gender connector. Is that a dummy version of the precollision radar unit that your corroded connector should have been connected to for the purpose of keeping it dry?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I will gladly pay it forward....

That is what I believe to be the matching gender connector that you see in the background. Yes, I believe that the corroded connector piece should be connected to that and it would have stayed dry. Dummy version??? Don't follow what you mean by this.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
husband wanted rear brake pads replaced, as recommended on first visit ($260) due to sons trip next week. (FYI...bought the car in RI last June, he lived in RI for summer-salt water-and then he drove to CO -home-then to KS-school, and he has driven home a few times too-so not surprised he needed pads. BAD NEWS! Rotors are rusted so now we have to replace them too! ($116) ...I'm starting to feel VERY defeated....this corroded connector piece better be the reason for all of this, or else that might completely destroy me on this car. $560 + $260 + $116=$916 (guess I need to tell my daughter she cant get married this year!)

150177

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150179


can MONEY PIT refer to a car too??????

thank God its the weekend! 1582933707178.png 1582933739238.png 1582933758990.png
 

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Brake pad looks like it's not making full contact with the rotor, causing uneven wear.

When replacing the pads and rotors, make sure the calipers pistons aren't sticking/binding along with proper greasing of the slide pins that the caliper rides on and keeps it centered on the rotor.

Have a good day.
 

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husband wanted rear brake pads replaced, as recommended on first visit ($260) due to sons trip next week. (FYI...bought the car in RI last June, he lived in RI for summer-salt water-and then he drove to CO -home-then to KS-school, and he has driven home a few times too-so not surprised he needed pads. BAD NEWS! Rotors are rusted so now we have to replace them too! ($116) ...I'm starting to feel VERY defeated....this corroded connector piece better be the reason for all of this, or else that might completely destroy me on this car. $560 + $260 + $116=$916 (guess I need to tell my daughter she cant get married this year!)

View attachment 150177
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View attachment 150179

can MONEY PIT refer to a car too??????

thank God its the weekend! View attachment 150177 View attachment 150178 View attachment 150179
Not to add fuel to the fire, but have the brake fluid flushed/replaced. I would replace the rubber brake lines too. Definitely grease those slide pins!!!

Looks like the previous owner did squat to the vehicle! :mad:
 
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