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Discussion Starter #1
I am purchasing the OEM trailer hitch and wiring harness and need the correct part number. My body shop is installing it.

When I input my VIN online it gives me an error on all sites. I checked. It is correct.

Is this the correct hitch and wire harness since there are two. What is the difference? Dealers come up with different numbers.


Hitch - PZQ64-42096
Hitch - PZQ64-42097

Wiring Harness -PU322-42013-UW
Wiring Harness -PU322-42013-UR

I have tow ready wiring. Thank You.
 

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I think you will find that the Hitch - PZQ64-42096 is for any Rav 4 of your year while the Hitch - PZQ64-42097 cannot be used on the SE grade. They are both class 1 hitches but the latter ends up placing the ball a little higher.

As far as the wiring harness, they both have the converter built in for 3 wire to 2 wire, and the UW is a powered converter, I don't know about the UW but I suspect it is as well.

The powered converter is required as the extra load is to much for the vehicles wiring and could damage the computer as well. Make sure the con verter is powered from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After feedback from you, hours of searching, and consulting with parts dealer where I bought the Rav4 here is what I have. Hope this helps someone.


PZQ64-42096 hitch is for my vehicle and PU322-42013UR is my wiring harness.

He talked to his installers and if on 2016 and it comes with a hitch when purchased new requires PU322-42013UW(more expensive), no hitch PU322-42013UR(less expensive). I know this is strange. Going to buy it from my dealer then drop it of at the body shop down the road to install. This way any issues it can be resolved fast. My dealer does not do body work but they have a recommended one right down the road.

About $500 install all. Dealer $800. This is not an easy task.


Someone rear ended my RAV4 and did not appear like much damage but its a unit body and was 2K. The body shop did nice work.
 

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500$ does not seem like a bad price for an installed hitch and wiring. I just finish putting a hitch and wiring on a friends Honda CRV, the hitch was 300$ with drawbar and ball, the wiring kit was 65$. Took about three hours to install. She is towing one of those little teardrop trailers , weighs about 350kg loaded
 

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May I suggest you look at torklift hidden hitch, very similar hidden look like oem and its $279 shipped. Just installed mine on Thursday and very happy.

Sent from my R1 PLUS using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If this was past my 3 year 36 I would not have an issue with potential aftermarket but if something goes wrong with the RAV4 I don't want them pointing to non OEM. I even made sure I used their recommended autobody shop for a recent accident which turned out to be very good. The body shop is
more expensive but they use OEM first before going elsewhere depending on availability.

I just brought in my 2003 suburban to replace a bumper for a fender bender. They used oem skin $300, aftermarket $125.
 

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+1 on the Torklift, if I wanted a "hidden" hitch, the Torklift would be my choice, costs far less than the OEM hitch and is an easy install, I'd never pay someone to do it, it's just too easy. The OEM hitch isn't rated for any more useable capacity than the Torklift since the tow capacity or the gas 4.4 is still only 1500lbs and 150lb tongue weight, any 2" hitch will exceed that. I had the OEM hitch on my '06 V6 Rav4, but it's rated to tow much more weight (3500lbs with tow prep), so the OEM hitch made sense. The wiring is a bit more work, but still not hard IMO, I used the Curt 13149 and aftermarket wiring on my '15 Ltd and '16 Hybrid, used the OEM 12V wire routing path on the '15.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/125-4-4-exterior/98673-tow-hitch-3.html#post1793530
 

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Not that it matters since the 4.4 is only rated for 1500 but the torklift is rated for 350 pounds tongue weight and 3,500 pounds towing weight. I definitely perfer the torklift over oem and not only for price and ease of installation but that the hitch is a one piece welded construction where as the OEM hitch is all bolted together and is why it requires all of the connection points to the body.

Sent from my R1 PLUS using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just had the OEM hitch installed. I bought all parts was going to do my self but decided later not to.

The OEM is not cheap about $500 with electrical. Labor was 7 hours at dealer. That hitch in the box took two people to get in my truck. It was very heavy. The hitch is almost as heavy as my suburbans.

I know people have said its not too bad to install but I was there and it was a lot of work. The results look great and the hitch is fully tucked in. You cant see any bottom of the hitch. From internet: The frame-mounted tow hitch receiver is located at highest position possible to achieve maximum ground clearance and departure angles.

Also for towing I like going with OEM for towing anything safety. In my area the folks doing the aftermarket are not very experienced and do not appear to have the skills needed when I talked to them.
 

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I just did the wiring harness on my 2014. One of those numbers is just the pig tail. You need the more expensive of the 2 that has the full wiring harness. You have to pull kost of the interior to run the wires. There is a video on YouTube on how to install
 

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