A center cap that snaps over the hub flange would be the best way to prevent rust, which will happen. Your garage or tire dealer should be able to help. If you can't find a center cap, keep the hubs coated with Fluid Film or similar protective lubricant.

 

They will rust, but it's OK

If you find a center cap let us know, but there aren't many that will fit

 

Had a local garage put on steel winter rims the other day. Car had Alloy rims for the summer. Had to buy another set of lugnuts to fit the steel rims. My question is (see picture), should the middle be exposed like it is, the brass looking center? Will that not rust? Thanks

Thanks

A center cap that snaps over the hub flange would be the best way to prevent rust, which will happen. Your garage or tire dealer should be able to help. If you can't find a center cap, keep the hubs coated with Fluid Film or similar protective lubricant.

Honestly in most aspects, with your other wheels on, those aren't exactly sealed let alone hermetically from any moisture to begin with. BUT.. usually back in the day there was a cap that would encapsulate that, usually had bearing grease in it. I would think not much has changed, and at least if its only FWD or would also apply in an AWD scenario. there should be whats called a "Bearing cap" over that, its flange'd, and whether the alloy or steel wheels on, they also will clamp down to keep that pressure fitting cap from coming off as an added precaution.

I would honestly take it to the dealer, talk to your service advisor and have him do the legwork to either get you some part numbers for the OEM parts to order them or disclose/explain why they aren't needed.They may also be silver or zinc [yellowish] coated new. May have to paint them black rather than look like an LAPD patrol car.

In addition, the only thing that would possibly rust after some time is the black 12 sided nut on there. everything else is zinc plated = no rust

Also, if you have a few extra dollars to throw away and burn, LOL.. hit up a local auto parts store, ask for a set of beauty rings. They'll add a 1.5"-2" polished lip to the inside the outside edge and actually dress them up a little bit without going all out and or looking like you had your wheels stolen. lol

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Some like it, some don't.. I had a 1st Gen Toyota bB when they first came out used as a business customer shuttle vehicle. The hubcaps looked awful and were tossed - FAR!, rims weren't in the budget just yet but on a white bodied bB, it looked like a whirlpool washer on its back so I shot the OE steelies in a sweet bronze finish, wrapped in what was the first generation of Falken Azenis RT615's [205/50/15] and got a lot of compliments and then wait for it -- showed them they weren't real rims..! #doubletakes ; )

Wow that pic brings back some fun memories... geez

 

A cap won't clip into the hub itself, and a push through style will get in the way of the wheel fitting over the hub.

The only time there are caps that fit that type of steel wheel are when the rim is designed to accept them or when the caps are fixed to the lug nuts. Neither is the case here.

I tried for a long time to find the same thing. There isn't much you'll be able to find for those generic steel wheels.

Either way, like 12 North says, a cap wouldn't change much in that, that area is never truly sealed anyway. A hubcap or even an alloy wheel with a center cap might prevent dirt and salt from getting into the opening, but it's not possible to seal it completely.

I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

My local garage did not have any covers that they said would cover the exposed hub flange. However they said to spray it with Dupli-Color matte clear coat. He said I could spray it directly on the flange and the surrounding area? Does this make sense? Appreciate all the responses. Thanks

 

It would make sense if it was just mild steel, but the components are clearly zinc coated with exception of the nut [which is painted at least] as I mentioned before.. Save your $6 for a can of clear paint and take your woman out to Starbucks instead or use it for the first 6 quarter-wash wash bay visits, and just rinse off your vehicle more often.

We are spoiled here in Nevada, with exception of our 2 newest vehicles all our rigs are '90's rigs and without dealing with the salted roads here in Vegas but personally I grew up in the rust belt, Michigan to be exact and always had mostly older vehicles, washed/rinsed them off 1-2 times a week and barely had any rust let alone issues related to rust.

However, we do get flash floods and other fun water crossings here where we do purposely cross. Here is our '93 Ford Ranger rig, at the time it was just 2WD, sitting on 33's, 2" lift, 2" body lift. And at a point the water did reach the top of the grill being 5.75" over stock height through about 60-70 yards of about 30"+ slow moving water.

Mojave Trail Water Crossing - 2WD​

Would consider taking some tips from your Brethern down under, specifically #2 as a basis at least for rinsing off "salt water" based snow or slush.

Washing your 4x4
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Hope that helps

 

It will rust eventually

My 2014 is rusted in the hub area. The

But it honestly doesn't matter. If you want, shoot it with some grease, but it will rust.