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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New Rav4 XLE Hybrid owner as of December 4, 2019. Love it, but as usual I like to improve the audio is my new cars, ordered Infinity tweeters and have a Bazooka sub I was trying to wire up today, using hi-pass requires front left and right connectors plus power, the harness for this Pioneer radio has some very odd colors and I couldn't quite figure out which wires to use?

I've looked on the net but there's no diagram to be found other than pre-2018 Rav4's, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the new 2019 or 2020 Rav4?

The sub is going in the trunk, the cable run was snaked through the front panel to the A pillar then back through the floor door panels to the rear left seat, managed to fish it to the trunk area but still require a negative with no screws available to use, will need to drill a hole.

Thanks in advance to anyone who has this diagram, I'm sure there's many more Rav4 owners who could use it!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
FWIW: Audio pair info for non-JBL 2019 RAV4 G4(black) connector can be found in the schematic of my signature below...
That's it! thank you, pins 1, 6 and 2, 7 on the 10 pin connector for FR and FL. IIRC the cables are thick, the usual red power cable is not there correct?
 

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That's it! thank you, pins 1, 6 and 2, 7 on the 10 pin connector for FR and FL. IIRC the cables are thick, the usual red power cable is not there correct?
Yes, first 4 pins would be FR & FL from left to right with G4 unplugged from radio. The non-solderable aluminum conductor wires are 16 gauge and thicker than the rest of wiring going to the radio.
FWIW: I grabbed 12VDC for my JBL sub from the 12V accessory outlet in the boot of the RAV4...
 

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so what are you guys actually doing with the G4 connector? Are you just cutting the wires that are coming out of the G4 harness like a few inches back and running wire from there into the amplifier as a high input? Then say you want to add new front door speakers and amplify them, are you just cutting the front right and left from the G4 harness and running wire from the amplifier into where you cut the wire?
 

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so what are you guys actually doing with the G4 connector? Are you just cutting the wires that are coming out of the G4 harness like a few inches back and running wire from there into the amplifier as a high input? Then say you want to add new front door speakers and amplify them, are you just cutting the front right and left from the G4 harness and running wire from the amplifier into where you cut the wire?
Basically. If you look at the schematic, I have cut all 8 wires of G4 a couple of inches from the connector.

FR & FL are spliced into both feeding high level input for amp as well as continuing on to 2 tweeters in the dash.
RR & RL now only feed into high level for the amp.

Instead of using existing aluminum conductor factory wire for both front and rear door speakers, I have run speed wire from amp out to 4 door speakers as shown in red of schematic. Only the 2 tweeters in the dash are using the original speaker wiring.
 

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Basically. If you look at the schematic, I have cut all 8 wires of G4 a couple of inches from the connector.

FR & FL are spliced into both feeding high level input for amp as well as continuing on to 2 tweeters in the dash.
RR & RL now only feed into high level for the amp.

Instead of using existing aluminum conductor factory wire for both front and rear door speakers, I have run speed wire from amp out to 4 door speakers as shown in red of schematic. Only the 2 tweeters in the dash are using the original speaker wiring.
Thank you for the info that is exactly what i was looking for. Is it difficult to run new wire into the door? Are you fishing it through the existing rubber flexible tube that is visible when you open the door and look by the hinges?
 

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Thank you for the info that is exactly what i was looking for. Is it difficult to run new wire into the door? Are you fishing it through the existing rubber flexible tube that is visible when you open the door and look by the hinges?

Similar to above on the RAV4. Empty/unused pin sockets to pass the 18 gauge speed wire thru...
 

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I have never had to do that before. Mostly because like he said in the video the older cars were just open and didnt have the plugs. Wouldn't it be easier to identify which wire was for the door speaker and splice into that before it goes into the door plug? Just curious.
 

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so what are you guys actually doing with the G4 connector? Are you just cutting the wires that are coming out of the G4 harness like a few inches back and running wire from there into the amplifier as a high input? Then say you want to add new front door speakers and amplify them, are you just cutting the front right and left from the G4 harness and running wire from the amplifier into where you cut the wire?
In my case I'm not using an amp, my sub is self powered so I just needed to tap in to those wires and require a power source, nothing complex like what somms has done. Not touching or running any new wires when I get my tweeters in, have adapters and will use what's in place.
 

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In my case I'm not using an amp, my sub is self powered so I just needed to tap in to those wires and require a power source, nothing complex like what somms has done. Not touching or running any new wires when I get my tweeters in, have adapters and will use what's in place.
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So did you use the lever nut wire connectors that somms talked about in his original post? So those lever nut wire connectors act as like a "wire nut"? So did you use the ones with the 3 holes?
 

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So did you use the lever nut wire connectors that somms talked about in his original post? So those lever nut wire connectors act as like a "wire nut"? So did you use the ones with the 3 holes?
Wago 221-613 Lever-Nuts 10AWG 3 Conductor Compact Wire Connectors 30 PK

FWIW: While those lever-nuts I linked to in that thread are suited for 16 gauge or less wires for audio, you would need a different type for power wire up to 10 gauge for your amplified sub like the type linked above...
 

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I have a hybrid and the 12v battery is in the back corner so I will be pulling power directly from that.
OK. You may still have to splice into 12VDC accessory or switched power in order to successfully turn-on the amplified sub.

In my case, using just the high-level audio input wasn't enough to switch on my JBL sub. I had to connect the purple turn-on wire from the sub into the same accessory power outlet as well...
 

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OK. You may still have to splice into 12VDC accessory or switched power in order to successfully turn-on the amplified sub.

In my case, using just the high-level audio input wasn't enough to switch on my JBL sub. I had to connect the purple turn-on wire from the sub into the same accessory power outlet as well...
I am also using an Audio Control LC2i for the remote turn on. That should work right
 
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