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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone first time posting.
Just purchased a 2020 rav4 xle premium first of December, first problem, leaving to go to work 5:30 am. no start had a dead battery, I jumped started and about 30 seconds after crank up the engine started to make a rattling and knocking sound so I immediately shut the engine off, and called Toyota road service to haul to the dealer ( 37 miles away ) the rav4 has 1,273 miles on it when this happened.
The service department had the car for 2.5 hours and could not find any problem, the service tech said the rattling and knocking was the high pressure fuel pump and that was normal, the tech said they charged the battery and did not know why it went dead. My question is has anybody experienced a battery drain with there new rav4 ? Fingers crossed this don't happen again, Thanks for any information.
 

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All that I can say is: all the 'Toyota Techs' have graduated from the 'University of Highest BS.' Talk about talking out your ass. They'll say anything to appease the customer.
Not to make light of the OP's problem but at least they didn't say "they all do that".
 

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Not to make light of the OP's problem but at least they didn't say "they all do that".
\
It does suck that a new car had a dead battery.
No, I don't mean to make light of the OP's post, and I wish him/her the best. Just stating the fact about the dealership service shops. I guess I'm being a little sarcastic, but I sure haven't heard of too many comments about 'good or great results' with any Toyota service centers lately.
 

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I belong to another forum on a different car and there has been a number of people that have had batteries that develop an internal intermittent short. Also another individual on this forum has asked how to jump his new hybrid so there is at least one other person. You can search for the thread and maybe message him. I believe the electrical systems are supposed to disconnect after 20 minutes.
 

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Not to make light of the OP's problem but at least they didn't say "they all do that".
That's what I have been seeing on some posts, I sure hope that's not my answer when I take it back to the service dept.
Just did a voltage check and got 12.5 volts if I am not wrong a fully charged battery should be around 13 to 14 volts ?
I will check in this afternoon and see if it gets any lower.
 

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\
It does suck that a new car had a dead battery.
No, I don't mean to make light of the OP's post, and I wish him/her the best. Just stating the fact about the dealership service shops. I guess I'm being a little sarcastic, but I sure haven't heard of too many comments about 'good or great results' with any Toyota service centers lately.
Yes, my wife was saying the same thing, before we left the service center, she told the service manager she is afraid to drive it to work now, thinks the battery might be dead when she gets off work, and then have to get a service truck to go through all the security gates. If there is a next time taking to the service dept. I will insist on doing a parasitic draw test, what they should have done in the first place and see what's draining the battery.
 

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That's what I have been seeing on some posts, I sure hope that's not my answer when I take it back to the service dept.
Just did a voltage check and got 12.5 volts if I am not wrong a fully charged battery should be around 13 to 14 volts ?
I will check in this afternoon and see if it gets any lower.
Not unheard of for dealers to deliver cars with a dead battery. Also true that once these little batteries go dead they are never the same again. If there's any further doubt I'd be pushing for a battery replacement, or even just go buy one.
 

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Hi everyone first time posting.
Just purchased a 2020 rav4 xle premium first of December, first problem, leaving to go to work 5:30 am. no start had a dead battery, I jumped started and about 30 seconds after crank up the engine started to make a rattling and knocking sound so I immediately shut the engine off, and called Toyota road service to haul to the dealer ( 37 miles away ) the rav4 has 1,273 miles on it when this happened.
The service department had the car for 2.5 hours and could not find any problem, the service tech said the rattling and knocking was the high pressure fuel pump and that was normal, the tech said they charged the battery and did not know why it went dead. My question is has anybody experienced a battery drain with there new rav4 ? Fingers crossed this don't happen again, Thanks for any information.
What’s the build date of your car? It’ll be on a label inside the driver door jamb. The reason I ask is it might give a clue as to how long the vehicle sat around between when it was built and the eventual date of sale. Cars can sit on regional storage lots or at the dealer for many months. The dealer is supposed to start up all their inventory enough to keep batteries charged but some of them probably don’t do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not unheard of for dealers to deliver cars with a dead battery. Also true that once these little batteries go dead they are never the same again. If there's any further doubt I'd be pushing for a battery replacement, or even just go buy one.
Thanks, good point that's just what I will do, I have read about batteries when they are completely drained like mine was some kind of chemical form on the plates inside and the life of the battery is cut down to a low %.
 

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Never have heard of the knocking and rattling sound which was described as being caused by the fuel pump or the fuel system. If the battery goes dead again suggest having a load test done, which should uncover any internal problem in the battery itself. If so the battery should be under warranty. If the load test doesn't reveal any battery problem then a parasitic drain test hopefully should reveal the problem. Is there an aftermarket alarm system installed? If so that could be causing an electrical current drain problem.
 

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What’s the build date of your car? It’ll be on a label inside the driver door jamb. The reason I ask is it might give a clue as to how long the vehicle sat around between when it was built and the eventual date of sale. Cars can sit on regional storage lots or at the dealer for many months. The dealer is supposed to start up all their inventory enough to keep batteries charged but some of them probably don’t do it.
Manufacturer date is 10/19 we have had the car right at 3 weeks, and it has been fine till Monday morning of this week.
Hopeful it is just the battery I sure hate to have some tech pulling wires taking dash apart.
 

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Did they give you a service paper indicating what was done. I would think a battery charge and load test was the least done.
Yes the service manager had everything the tech did typed up under warranty work, charge and test the battery, but did not do a parasitic draw test to find what is draining the battery. Been checking the battery voltage off and on today and the voltage is dropping, it has dropped almost one volt ( using analog meter ) scents this morning.
 

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Havent had anything like that yet and it has sat for a week at a time. Then again it hasn’t been that cold yet here.
 

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Yes the service manager had everything the tech did typed up under warranty work, charge and test the battery, but did not do a parasitic draw test to find what is draining the battery. Been checking the battery voltage off and on today and the voltage is dropping, it has dropped almost one volt ( using analog meter ) scents this morning.
Sounds like a possible internal short on the battery or at least my guess. I know that I have gone out into the garage at night hours after the car has been shut down and heard a buzzing sound under the car. I posted it and someone commented that it was the EVAP system being tested which I assume is a vacuum pump pulling a negative pressure on the tank to check for leaks. So some drains are expected. Even time you open the doors or bring the key close to the car(intelligent key) you wake up the numerous modules in the car. That is not causing your issue but it will affect a amp meter if you hook one up initially.

What was the latest voltage?
 

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That's what I have been seeing on some posts, I sure hope that's not my answer when I take it back to the service dept.
Just did a voltage check and got 12.5 volts if I am not wrong a fully charged battery should be around 13 to 14 volts ?
I will check in this afternoon and see if it gets any lower.
12.5 volts is about right. I believe 12.6 volts is the spec. You need to check the battery voltage at "rest" - which is about 30 minutes after it last ran.

If it drops anywhere near 12.2 volts or lower you likely have a bad battery / bad cell.

At charge (running) it should be at 13.7 volts or higher. I am not all that familiar with my Rav4 charging system yet, but its likely that it has a smart charge system, which means the charging will turn off once the battery is fully charged even when running.

How long did it sit for before the dead battery? I have had nothing but bad luck with the new cheap batteries over the years. One cell goes bad and will drain the entire battery in a few days, but if your driving the car a couple times a day you don't notice it.

When you tried to start the car did it click or anything - lights on, etc? Possibly its a different issue than dead battery.
 

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Newer cars with all the electronics really draw down the battery. If I'm going to let my car sit for more than a week, I put on my little smart charger/maintainer. I've got one by CTek and it works great. I just checked my battery voltage after my Rav4 has been sitting in the cool garage for 4 days and the voltage is now down to 12.1V. It will still start at that voltage from past experience. I know that's low, so that's why I either drive the car daily or put on the smart maintainer, which I just did tonight.
 
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