I looked on Amazon at the Bluetooth battery monitors. There’s quite a few to choose from. Which one do you have? Do you know the current draw on it?When I took my car in after the battery incident, I was first told that I wasn’t driving it enough, because of the mileage I had on it. I told the tech, “ Oh come on. You mean to tell me that Toyota has produced a vehicle that can’t sit in a garage for 3 days without bein driven or the battery will run down?” I then asked them if they thought their statement might be a little bogus. So they told me they would troubleshoot the car, at my cost, as there was nothing wrong with it. I said they needed to read the warranty information first, and if they chose to charge me, there was going to be big trouble. I finally got the firmware upgrade done, which fixed my issue, but I had to push for it. As I said previously, there was no discussion whatsoever about the upgrade, and I learned about it from other sources.
I had talked to Toyota corporate about the issue several times and got a blank answer, like nobody else had the problem. I installed a blue tooth battery monitor myself, because I was determined to get to the bottom of the issue, and could see I wasn’t going to get much help with it. I think the lawsuit is applicable. If you can’t rely on your vehicle to be ready and waiting for you, you might just as well save your money and not buy a new car.
I’ve been considering the ones that have a shunt so I can monitor the parasitic current. I can’t figure out how accurate they are in the low milliamp range though. If this data is accurate and can be logged it would be helpful.