I did a recent report on my cable on a 2022 Hybrid. I am not certain if the Hybrid and Prime are the same situation. It's early to make any claims of coating being of help. I have basically decided that the possible benefits of doing my own application to this part is better than simply leaving and waiting to see if Toyota will honor a warranty claim after years. My decision; others will have to come to their course of action. Toyota seems to be assuming that its modified connector has solved the problem, but it is too soon. Sounds like you have a mechanic you trust so discuss this with them among other sources.

And of course if you aren't around road salt, not a concern.

https://www.rav4world.com/threads/high-voltage-cable-cleaning-anti-corrosion-round-2.330618/#post-3049638

 

I have just turned 40k in my 2021 prime and have had no issues. I live in the rust belt but did not get any rust protection. I have a 2003 pickup that has 136k and almost no rust. I keep it clean in the winter (car wash) I did not opt for any extended warranty. So far it has been a great car. It is fast and fuel efficient. The forum is a great place to get information. Everyone is very helpful.

 

If my experience is any indication, you will likely have an issue soon. After driving my '21 R4P XSE (non-pp) in salty roads for 4 winters (just over 50k miles on the ODO), I just had my HV cable underneath replaced under PZEV warranty ($9800 +), fortunately I paid nothing. They used updated parts, which hopefully last better than the originals!

 

I wonder when they switched from 2023 to 2024. I picked up my R4P XSE 3 days ago and it’s a 2023. It had just arrived 2 days earlier.

 

I turned down a 2023 xse last week that I had waited on for 22 months and got a 2024 coming Dec 5th.

 

My wife picked up her 2023 a few months ago. It immediately went into the garage for a full rustproofing treatment.

2. I loaded up the exposed cable with Fluid Film as a preventative measure.

3. I used Cosmoline followed by Fluid Film for the rust treatment. I removed all of the plastic panels on the underside of the car, all four fender liners and the rear bumper (I was also installing the OEM hitch). I even dropped the muffler and the giant heat shield behind it to treat that area. Inside of the doors were done by removing the interior panels (I was also adding soundproofing to the doors). Rocker panels can be treated by removing the plastic plugs that line the bottom but you should plan to replace them as they don't fit tightly after removal. I didn't feel a need to drill any holes - there are plenty of existing holes many of which are covered with plastic plugs. The hood and rear hatch are not steel so no need to treat those.

I have had good results using this treatment on previous vehicles. Exposed areas get resprayed with Fluid Film annually.

 

Ensure the spray is safe to use around electrical parts - Rust Protection & Lubricants
No drilling required nor should be done.
Show your mechanic this video - Its what a professional does and what was done to Rav4Prime -

and this video for cablegate -

 

The first video is pretty much what I did although I have no idea why he didn't remove the wheels for easier access to the fender wells. Very few shops are going to do this amount of disassembly which is why I did it myself.

 

4. How does $1795 for the Toyota 10 year/125,000 mile VSA sound? After spending countless hours doing research on your awesome site here I called a couple of the suggested lower cost VSA dealerships for a quote and that is the lowest quote so far.

Statistically, a VSA is not a good deal for an owner. They are priced to make a profit for the company selling them, so their experience is that cars on average will cost less than the VSA price. While a few cars will require more than that, you are betting you will be that outlier car if you purchase it.

On your rustproofing question, I find factory protection to work well these days unless you live in an area that uses road salt. Out west where I live, they only use sand these days.

 

Statistically, a VSA is not a good deal for an owner

Same same for all insurances including auto and home, which is what this is, insurance. The question is: are you okay with paying for any of 100s of parts and labor costs post 3y/36K warranty in the event of failure(s), if you will be keeping the car? If you're okay with that then skip the extended warranty.

 

OUTSTANDING replies so far!! Thank you again to all those who have responded! You are all greatly appreciated! On the "I wonder when they started building the 2024 question". I was SHOCKED to find out mine will be titled as a 2024, I am not sure if it is actually a 2023 thats only "Titled" as a 2024. It was built on October 12th 2023 (the selling dealership has been following it closely and reporting to me on the process). I am also not sure of the differences between the two model years but once I get it home I will be happy to check it over closely to see if it actually is a 2024. I will need you RAV4 Prime forum guru's to advise me about what to look for though, I look forward to that!
I am in Michigan so yes, salt on the road is a concern.
Speaking of Michigan, another question I have for any Michigan RAV4 Prime owners concerns insurance. I am about to go insurance shopping (I have 4 weeks to shop). I would be curious to know what you are paying for insurance at what deductible. I have been told (or read on the forum here somewhere) that "State Farm" seems to be the fairest here in Michigan? As I shop I will gladly post up the quote figures I get.

 

Cosmetic changes most likely and a price increase by a few thousand....................

 

The 2024 was actually less than $500 increase for the R4P xse same color over the 2023.

 

Ok. The Toyota extended warranty just covered my failed power hatch struts. $1,300 repair. Paid for the warranty and have no regrets. Still have 8 years and over 85,000 miles of protection.

 

If you were still within the 3-year warranty period, would the struts have been covered?

 

I hardly ever get an extended warranty on anything - but we decided to go with it on our R4 Hybrid. Our main "justification" was all the electronic gadgets that have to work compared to what we've had on previous vehicles and how long we keep our vehicles. I've had to replace less complicated electronic components on past vehicles and the tab usually started at around $1000. I guess we'll know in about 10 years if this was a good bet or not!

 

Glad I am not alone on this reason about why buying into the extended warranty is justified...sometimes at least. Told my spouse to purchase the extended warranty on her 2024 Rav4 this year because as a gearhead and working on ICE vehicles as an avocation, I know enough that added electronics to any vehicle means added repairs and expenses. After following EV and Hybrid forums for the past 2 years, I know we can expect something electronic to go amiss on her car and since we tend to keep our vehicles up to their dying day, I'm counting on the extended warranty to pay for itself. As you said, I guess only time will really tell if we were correct or not, but I would bet money it will...oh, wait---I guess I just did that.

 

I'm out of the bumper to bumper warranty. So my Toyota Warranty covered it.

 

The warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles. What ever comes first.

 

Thanks for that. Very glad your extended warranty covered it. If you don't mind another question, what was the nature of the strut failure you experienced? Did both need replacement?