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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Sry for long post...

I just purchased a 2007 rav4 2.2D with the 2ad ftv engine about 4 months ago. Car has about 180k km on the clock and i have started having some issues with the EGR system....
The turbo keeps realesing the pressure and the car is jerking at low rpms and low boost, but is fine at wide open and high boost. I keep getting the p0400 code and it's for the EGR system malfunction and the car goes into limp mode. I get an error code for the ABS and 4x4 at the same time as well. ( DTC0C1201, a vacuum code i believe?) I have changed the EGR valve and did not help. I also took off the inlet manifold to clean it since there was a lot of build up in it. After cleaning i drove the car for about 1 hour and was hard on the throttle and it was fine except for the jerking from turbo was still there. After the drive ai was pulling in at home again and it goes into limp mode again with the p0400 code...

Anyone have any experience with this? I know there's a "second" EGR valve and a cooler. Could those be causing the issue?

Appreciate any help!

Ty
 

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Welcome to the forum, and sorry to hear of the problem.

The EGR is not necessarily the root cause of your problem, you will need to thoroughly check the following, as a code P0400 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• Plugged EGR passage which restricts the flow of exhaust gasses

• Faulty EGR solenoid

• Faulty EGR solenoid wiring/harness (short to ground, open, or high resistance due to corrosion)

• Vacuum lines damaged/disconnected to the EGR valve solenoid or to the EGR valve

• Faulty EGR valve

With you also pulling a vacuum code, I would look in that direction first - do a detailed visual inspection. listen, and maybe spray some soapy water on the lines to see if you can identify anything.

Let us know how you get on
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I just had my car at a professional tuner and had my whole EGR system coded out. No more fault codes or limp mode on the drive home (1.5 hours) so i am positive so far!
As of the jerking and turbo releasing pressure, it's still happening but not as bad.
Thinking that would be the tcv (turbo control valve) maybe?
Have a new one on the way and it should be here before the weekend or just after. So I'll let you know that goes...
 

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Glad to hear the news, thanks for letting us know

Hope it stays like that, and let us know about the TCV too
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Glad to hear the news, thanks for letting us know

Hope it stays like that, and let us know about the TCV too
Just changed the TCV without any change :/ Starting to suspect the MAF. not getting any codes, but car runs better at idle with the MAF unplugged then plugged in.... Tried to meassure the voltage reading from the sensor and got 3.6-3.9V at idle.... does that seem a bit high? cant find what the reading is supposed to be at idle.....
 

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Are you able to read the MAF at idle and report back using grams per second. Somewhere around 3 to 5 g/s would be good
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And it seems to be dropping from 60 to 30 grams while jerking at around 2.5k rpm and keeps dropping down when the car jerks
 

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That does not sound right at all. I had the same problem with a MAF under reporting (in my case). I would look at the harness and connections to see if there are any green crusties, or damage. There could be corrosion on the circuit somewhere, but as you say it keeps jumping around.

My view on that is either a failing MAF, or you may have pin fretting (poor pin contact) somewhere. I am unsure if you are handy with a wrench and a DVOM to check pins and voltage drops to verify the circuit integrity. It is a difficult call remotely, for sure, changing the MAF for a good new one may resolve the issue fully, but there may be these other issues.

If it was my hunch, reading what you have described, I would tend to agree it is the MAF failing (especially with the unplugged test), but I could not be 100% - it is your call I guess.

Hope this helps in some way :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That does not sound right at all. I had the same problem with a MAF under reporting (in my case). I would look at the harness and connections to see if there are any green crusties, or damage. There could be corrosion on the circuit somewhere, but as you say it keeps jumping around.

My view on that is either a failing MAF, or you may have pin fretting (poor pin contact) somewhere. I am unsure if you are handy with a wrench and a DVOM to check pins and voltage drops to verify the circuit integrity. It is a difficult call remotely, for sure, changing the MAF for a good new one may resolve the issue fully, but there may be these other issues.

If it was my hunch, reading what you have described, I would tend to agree it is the MAF failing (especially with the unplugged test), but I could not be 100% - it is your call I guess.

Hope this helps in some way :)
Will check it out! This has helped alot, Thanks for all the help! 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No worries, keep us updated on progress
I'm starting to loose hope in this car man....
I just changed my maf to a brand new OEM quality one and it did not change anything.....
I've unplugged my 02 sensor and drove Abit without it but the problem stays.....
I hope it's not a fuel issue as injectors Are kind of pricey here in norway.... still not getting any codes even though it feels like the car is "misfiring" pretty bad under load....
Diesel filter was changed about 2000km ago so would be weird if that's an issue...
Air filter is newish and still clean
This will for sure be my last diesel!
 

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Sorry to hear of your on going problems.

Did you check the harness and pins etc like I suggested above? What are the readings now with the new MAF (g/s) at idle and say 2500 rpm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry to hear of your on going problems.

Did you check the harness and pins etc like I suggested above? What are the readings now with the new MAF (g/s) at idle and say 2500 rpm?
Still jumping around. But it feels more like a misfire if that makes sense..... Harness looks fine. All wires are intact and look good, same goes for all the pins...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry to hear of your on going problems.

Did you check the harness and pins etc like I suggested above? What are the readings now with the new MAF (g/s) at idle and say 2500 rpm?
I'll get back to you tomorrow on those readings 😁
 

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ok, thank you for the update. If the harness/pins etc are good and, as you say, you have a good OEM MAF.

Lets go back to basics, I will assume the MAF and circuit is sound, so the question is, what will cause air flow to change by the amounts you describe, such that the MAF is jumping?

Partially clogged CAT or exhaust,
Vacuum leak,
Clogged intake (filter, housing etc)
Partially blocked intake tubes (EGR etc)

Hope you can see where I am looking at - for the MAF to jump that much, something air flow wise is wrong.

Do you have a OBD reader? Can you look at any data to see if the numbers are plausible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok, thank you for the update. If the harness/pins etc are good and, as you say, you have a good OEM MAF.

Lets go back to basics, I will assume the MAF and circuit is sound, so the question is, what will cause air flow to change by the amounts you describe, such that the MAF is jumping?

Partially clogged CAT or exhaust,
Vacuum leak,
Clogged intake (filter, housing etc)
Partially blocked intake tubes (EGR etc)

Hope you can see where I am looking at - for the MAF to jump that much, something air flow wise is wrong.

Do you have a OBD reader? Can you look at any data to see if the numbers are plausible?
I have a Carly obd2 reader so I'm able to see all my inputs etc
 

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Does anything look like it is not plausible? (besides the jumping MAF).

Any of the air or coolant temperatures, are the fuel trims high (from the leak). With the fuel trims, what are both your short term and long term fuel trims at idle and 2500rpm? Just trying to check out what could cause the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Does anything look like it is not plausible? (besides the jumping MAF).

Any of the air or coolant temperatures, are the fuel trims high (from the leak). With the fuel trims, what are both your short term and long term fuel trims at idle and 2500rpm? Just trying to check out what could cause the problem
Fuel pressure in the fuel rail is not steady at idle. Keep shifting between 44k kpa and 36k kpa. Last thing done fuel wise was the fuel filter. So i suppose i will start by inspecting that
 
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