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Discussion Starter #1
2010 Rav4 4.3 speaker system upgrade = $316.00
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Upgrade your Rav4 speaker system for only $316.00 (non-JBL audio system). I accidentally bought 6.75" speakers for my rear doors which was a mistake and they don't fit without an hour of screwing around with more expensive Metrix adapters. You can do this for $316.00! :nerd

Getting a new head unit is great, but if you think your speakers will sound better, they probably will only sound slightly better, even with a pre-amp of 35 watts x 4, like my $350 Pioneer avh-x5700bhs has. Sure, you can get blutooth, siriusXM, front/rear cams, USB, and video playback, but what about the rockin' speaker sound?

When I entered 2010 Toyota Rav4, Crutchfield and Amazon both said the front and rear door speakers could take 6.5" or 6.75". Not true. I do have the SAP but I'm pretty sure all 2010's have four 6.5" door speakers. I tried fitting in 6.75" Kickers and it was a big mistake, even with 6.75" adapters. Just go with 6.5" and save yourself the trouble, they sound the same anyway, and the higher RMS on the 6.75" Kickers doesn't mean that much because you'll never get much bass from six inch speakers.

I got the Kicker 40CS654 6.5" 2-way component speakers for $55/ pair. 100watts RMS per speaker, so you'll need an amp to push the sound through that has an RMS wattage close to what your speaker RMS wattage. Don't worry about total wattage, RMS is what matters because some speakers and amps lie about their total (max) wattage anyway. 4 speakers = $110.00

Photo below is stock speakers

http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/sp...uf6gi.jpg.html

You have to have speaker adapters, these were only about $12/pair, the Toyota plastic speaker adapters get broken when taking the stock speakers out. Some people drill out the rivets, but I just broke the plastic with a flat-head screwdriver and then pulled out the rivets with a wire-cutter. Speaker wires are different colors than what's behind the head unit. Blue and purple for the front (forgot which is + and -, but the rear door speakers are red for positive and white for negative. Total = $24.00



AudioBaxics Toyota Aftermarket 6.5 and 6.75 Inch Plastic Speaker Adapter
Sold by: Audio Connections

Photo below is Kicker 6.5" door speaker installed with new speaker adapter to make it fit.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psv44uf6gi.jpg

Get a four channel amp for all four door speakers. Two channel amps are for running two big subwoofers in a trunk. Before the amp, the new Kickers didn't really sound much better than the stock speakers. Stock speakers are terrible by the way, have paper cones and are only 20 watts each.

Like most other posters here, just screw the amp in under the passenger seat. You don't need to remove the seat unless you really want to, I just pulled the seat all the way up and only screwed in the screws towards the back of the car, making sure the front of the amp (where the power wires are) was pushed under the rear seat air vent so it doesn't get hot in the winter with the heat on. Run the wire speaker wires, RCA jacks, blue amp on wire, and red power wire through the middle console and to the back of the head unit. Ground wire goes to one of the big four bolts that hold the passenger seat down. Amp power wire is 8 gauge and goes from the amp, under the middle console (with the speaker and RCA jack wires) but then under the glove box, (take glove box off) and push it through the hole that the plastic hose thing goes through the firewall and under the hood, run along the firewall and use wire ties to keep it out of the way, attach to positive side of the battery. Don't run the speaker wires straight to the door speakers, just connect them to the back of the radio for the outputs, and your amp input is from RCA jacks (front and rear). Also, the wiring kit only comes with one RCA jack wire, it is longer than you need, but you'll still need another one (around $6 for 5 feet). Also, the 10" subwoofer in the trunk enclosure will run off the right rear speaker coming out of the amp, unless you want to buy a five or six channel amp which will cost more. Total = $94.00




Boss R3004 1200W 4 Channel Car Audio Amplifier Amp + Remote + 8 Gauge Amp Kit
Sold by: VMInnovations
$87.95


Still, you'll need a real subwoofer in the car for bass because you're not driving a CRX. A Kicker 10" sub and box for $88 (300 watts, 150 watts RMS) which is perfect for this amp, and it's the only speaker box that I could find that fits in the very small under compartment of the Rav4. Total = $88.00




ASC Package Single 10" Kicker Sub Box Regular Cab Truck Subwoofer Enclosure C10 Comp 300 Watts Peak
Sold by: HiFi-Soundconnection
$88.19


>:DYou just upgraded your stereo system with a 450 watt RMS amplifier for under $320.00! Rock on.>:D
 
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The reviews for the Kicker speakers looks very good. I plan to upgrade mine this summer since I just got my car yesterday. May consider these 6.5 in speakers or Polk Audio but how good do they sound? I plan on using my Pioneer head unit from my old RAV4.

By the way did you change the tweeter speakers ?
 

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The speakers sound good, but with only a 35 watt pre-amp from my Pioneer head unit, there's no real low end bass, just clear highs and nice sounding mid-ranges. I'm used to an upgraded stereo system, so they didn't sound good to me until the amplifier was connected to the door speakers.

Since the 6.5" speakers are co-ax, they have their own tweeters, but I still left the stock tweeters where they were and didn't replace or cut the wires. Saw no need to buy a crossover.

I think 6.5" speakers are fairly small for a mid-size SUV with all that inner volume.Since 6.75" speakers don't fit in the doors, the only option is to amplify the door speakers even if you don't get a real sub for the small trunk enclosure area. Just make sure to match your amp's RMS wattage with the speaker's RMS wattage as close as possible.
 
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