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Very nice write up. Thank you.

I didn't see in the write up where you re-adjusted the parking brake on assembly. If I missed it I apologize.

The service manual has the following procedure after replacing the disc:

ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE
(a) Temporarily install the hub nuts.
(b) Remove the shoe adjusting hole plug, and then turn the adjuster to expand the shoe adjuster until the disc locks.
(c) Turn and contact the shoe adjuster until the disc can rotate smoothly.
Standard return notch: 8 notches
(d) Check that the shoe has no brake drag.

Thanks again for the write up. The pictures arrows and circles make the explanation very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yep. I did re-set those but forgot to cover that in the post. Will have to add that in eventually.

Looks like the forum embedded photos are not showing now. :confused: I guess the time spent converting those was a complete waste. The ones I had not converted from Photobucket still work though.
 

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The black collars could help prevent the caliper from rattling because of the vibrations of driving on typical roads. I had removed them from my 2005 Saab 92X (nicknamed the Saabaru because it is an Impreza dressed up) and now have that rattle to listen to until I replace those collars!
 

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nicely done, way more detailed than my write-up:


https://r56hs.com/2016/11/27/2007-2012-rav4-3-brake-pad-rotor-how-to/


I went with Centric Posi-Quiet long life's and centric blanks - I did a small bed-in but didn't really get a chance to bed them in properly. I'd say overall the braking force is pretty weak on these. They may get a little better overtime as they break in a little. I did use brake klene to wipe the rotors, maybe I should have done a little more. Or maybe it's just lower friction for 'long life' - either way, they are braking fine and happy with the new pads & rotors on the car!


Did a quick brake bleed as well for the first time, surprised as there was a decent amount of air in there. Used Amsoil DOT3 that I had leftover from another job.
 

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Excellent write up. One of the best I have seen. I have a question and a couple of comments/suggestions



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarharms
Slide the bracket over the rotor, line up the bolt holes with the knuckle, and install two (2) bolts. I anti-seize these bolts before installing.


Many years ago I had removed and reinstalled the bracket on a GM car. A few weeks later, after hearing a rattling sound, I discovered that one of the bracket bolts had fallen out and the caliper was rotating on the single remaining bolt. I picked up a new bolt from the dealer and found that thread locker had already been applied at the factory. Ever since then I have been careful to not use anti-seize, ,but rather use a thread locker on the bracket mounting bolts.
Yep, do NOT use anti-seize on these, use loctite.
 

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I did my 10 year old car 70k on it recently. Rotors were getting unevenly polished. Chose middle grade Napa rotors and pads. I carry tons of weight in the car and travel mountain passes but the original pads seemed to have 96% of their life left. New pads were identical but they were $80. Felt silly just throwing the old ones in the trash. One thing though the plunger, thing that moves the brake pad was very very rusty/corroded. I had gotten 2 packets of silicone lube so that's where most of that went.
 

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Can anyone provide any more guidance on removing the rear rotors? I can't seem to loosen the parking brake through that hole. Any ideas? I'm not sure what it means to push down on the toothed wheel.
 

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Pictures missing

Hey, does anyone know why the first two posts no longer load the images that the instructions refer to?
Does anybody have suggestions where I can find a similar post to this with detailed instructions?

Thanks :nerd
 

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Hey, does anyone know why the first two posts no longer load the images that the instructions refer to?
Does anybody have suggestions where I can find a similar post to this with detailed instructions?

Thanks :nerd
The pictures are there, I can view them just fine. You can also click on Jarharm's profile page and view the photos in his album.
 

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So after disabling ad block, re installing chrome, trying IE still nothing worked. When on Jarharm's albums I can view the thumbnail photos of the brake overhaul album but not the full photos. I went and tried on my buddy's desktop computer and they show up there so It's just an issue with my computer. Thanks for the advice
 

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Discussion Starter #34
How do I regain edit ability on my posts?

There is no edit button on posts I have made prior to today. :confused: I'll restore these brake pad photos but I have to get editing back first.
 

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How do I regain edit ability on my posts?

There is no edit button on posts I have made prior to today. :confused: I'll restore these brake pad photos but I have to get editing back first.
The EDIT button goes away after about 2 hours. If you need anything edited after that time, tell me or a moderator in a PM.
 

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will be changing my rear pads and rotors...do I need to install a new anti squeal shim...thank you...
I replaced my pads recently, and the new ADVICS pads came with shims. If your pads don't, just re-use the old shims.
 

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Anyone tried to swap out bigger calipers and rotors from another Toyota/Lexus? I did last weekend...

Stock single piston caliper/Rotor setup 275mm (10.8")



334mm (13.1") rotor and 4 piston caliper from a Lexus IS350. Caliper didn't sit right, will have to try an LS430 caliper next and fab up my own bracket.



 

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Anyone tried to swap out bigger calipers and rotors from another Toyota/Lexus? I did last weekend...

Stock single piston caliper/Rotor setup 275mm (10.8")
If you have the V6, you have the larger 296mm (11.6") rotors.
 

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If you have the V6, you have the larger 296mm (11.6") rotors.

Thanks!

So these rotors would be roughly 23% bigger and performance should be better with 4 caliper pistons rather than 1.
 
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