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So after disabling ad block, re installing chrome, trying IE still nothing worked. When on Jarharm's albums I can view the thumbnail photos of the brake overhaul album but not the full photos. I went and tried on my buddy's desktop computer and they show up there so It's just an issue with my computer. Thanks for the advice
Hmm. I can see Jarharms first 3 posts with pictures, but not posts 4 and 5. The pictures don't seem to load. I've disabled adblock in Firefox, and tried using IE and Chrome to no avail.
 

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Anyone tried to swap out bigger calipers and rotors from another Toyota/Lexus? I did last weekend...

Stock single piston caliper/Rotor setup 275mm (10.8")



334mm (13.1") rotor and 4 piston caliper from a Lexus IS350. Caliper didn't sit right, will have to try an LS430 caliper next and fab up my own bracket.



Any luck on this? I happened to be looking into brake rotors and pads today for an upcoming change over. I'm wishing our pedals had more initial bite.

I sort of looked at "sport" options but in the past I've had really bad luck with that stuff, usually they're overly meant for people who ride the brakes a lot or track their cars and worry about fade. I used Stop Tech (Centric) slotted rotors and matching "street sport" Stop Tech pads and it was literally like braking with blocks of wood until they warmed up. I live in hills and this was not ok to do cold braking with blocks of wood that don't bite when you need them out of the gate.



I too tried other calipers, I looked in some Scion and Lexus vehicles (not for the Rav) but without knowing their bolt spacing it was trial and error and the calipers are expensive and a lot of time trialing and erroring just to get them in hand, hold them up, and immediately see they won't mount.

In the end I went back to OEM Toyota pads and they were nice, lots of initial bite but not a lot of power.

The Rav4 braking isn't bad but I do wish it had more initial bite and more power behind it so I could brake with the weight of my foot in traffic as opposed to having to lean into it more. My girlfriend's ST is perfection, totally drivable and has a really nice clean bite like I'm sure the IS350 does that you're trying to swap in.

Might try Hawks this time around but again I do zero tracking and fade and heat aren't really issues so I don't want something that needs to warm up, just want something that grabs and feels effortless like a larger caliper and rotor would probably do.
 

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I have purchased new OEM front pads and shims for the front of a 2012 V6.


There are two shims per pad.


Is there any official Toyota recommendation for greasing the shims?


Thank You
 

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I have purchased new OEM front pads and shims for the front of a 2012 V6.


There are two shims per pad.


Is there any official Toyota recommendation for greasing the shims?


Thank You
I have never greased the shims and have not had a problem. I used OEM Advics pads.
 

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I just finished installing Centric rotors/ProACT pads/fresh fluid bleed off. Got everything cinched up yesterday and went for a drive.. couldn't lock brakes up, felt like blocks of wood. Parked on a hill and depressed brake pedal until the hill hold function came on. Only slightly held the car.

Today I went wheel by wheel re-bleeding the system, doubling down with some syl-glide on the the bleed screws to insure no air getting sucked in. Cinched everything up, went for a drive. Not much improved. Mushy pedal.

Had a buddy come rescue me for a two man operation to insure a proper bleed. After all said and done there were only a trace amount of very fine bubbles, almost appeared like a faint streak of another fluid or contamination coming out with brake fluid. We repeated open/close cycles on each wheel until we could get at least three cycles in a row that were clear.

Took it for a drive, much better but still a fair amount of pedal travel, pedal still feels somewhat mushy. Car will brake now, albeit less confidently than before. Wish I had just left the old fluid be. I'm in the boat with others where the pedal feel got worse despite better pads and new rotors. Original ones were warped and losing their initial bite.

I feel like giving up.
 

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IED, that is certainly disappointing. I wonder how much of the difference could be the fluid bleed issue and how much the different rotors and pads? :confused: I hope you get some comments from folks who can help you figure it out.
 

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Brakes are easy to do if you do it correctly but unfortunately many things can go wrong. :ponder:

When you pressed the brake to get the piston to go back to position, did you pressed the brake pedal all the way to the floor? The master cylinder could be ruin if the brake pumping was done incorrectly after the brake install.
 

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Fixed most of my issue. Fortunately I've read about the master cylinder issue so I've kept a block of wood below the pedal just in case but it's a good thing to mention. My buddy who later helped me do the two man bleed is a mechanical engineer who has done many brake jobs hadn't heard of this issue before, so there are those out there with lots of experience who've gotten lucky in a sense.

We did find a construction staple/end of a chain link in one of my wheels when I went to remove it for the two man bleed. Because of that I ended up taking the car to Les Schwab the next day to have this tire repaired. They fixed it easily enough but then also performed a full brake flush at the same time and double checked my work.

Flushing with a brake bleeding machine made a significant difference, I almost think I will always do this always in the future from here on. Well worth the $60 they charged. The pedal is now more firm like it used to be and the hill assist function works fine. From driving in to driving off it took no more than 40 minutes. They advised that the pedal will still feel slightly spongy as new pads and rotors need time to settle in, typically 200-500 miles from installation (322-805km).

We went on a trip this weekend with the Rav and put about 400mi (645km) on the brakes of mostly highway driving with some small town stop and go and they're definitely starting to feel much better.
 

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Great write up I can see all the pics on the front brakes procedure but I can't see any of the pics for the rear procedure. Any chance the OP can look into this and fix? And yes I looked at the OPs profile and the pics aren't there either - or at least I could not find them.
 

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So I've got a 2012 I4, without the third row seating. Will likely need to do a brake job in the next few months, and would like to up the braking power a bit if I can - at times I'll be towing a ~1,200 pound trailer that has electric brakes, but the more stopping power the better, especially over hilly terrain. Can I install the larger (V6) rotors and pads up front, or possibly some other kit?
 

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So I've got a 2012 I4, without the third row seating. Will likely need to do a brake job in the next few months, and would like to up the braking power a bit if I can - at times I'll be towing a ~1,200 pound trailer that has electric brakes, but the more stopping power the better, especially over hilly terrain. Can I install the larger (V6) rotors and pads up front, or possibly some other kit?
At the very least you would have to change out the calipers, caliper mounting brackets, and pads in addition to the rotor. not sure about the master cylinder but that prob has to be swapped out as well.
 

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Correction to the torque specs for the front caliper bracket bolts. At least for the 2012, those specs are: 79 ft-lbs/107n-m

This is according to TIS.

You were referring to this right.. "Slide the bracket over the rotor, line up the bolt holes with the knuckle, and install two (2) bolts. I anti-seize these bolts before installing. Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to 72 ft-lbs.".


I already did 72 and I have a 2012 v6. I sure don't want to take the wheels etc all off again..
 

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You were referring to this right.. "Slide the bracket over the rotor, line up the bolt holes with the knuckle, and install two (2) bolts. I anti-seize these bolts before installing. Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to 72 ft-lbs.".


I already did 72 and I have a 2012 v6. I sure don't want to take the wheels etc all off again..
Correct.
 
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