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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Morning! I had no time to make the last test u recommended me but have Some feedback.

after i cleared the error codes, I could drive the car during weekend almost 80 miles before the light came on again.

I also bought a MAF cleaner and a fuel system cleaner (just in case).

I will be able to check the procedure and make MAF cleaning on friday I guess, which is day off here.

feedback soon.

have a good day!!!!
 
Good news on the extra distance of travel.

Fingers crossed on the MAF clean. Usually, you give it several really good washes with the cleaner and then let it evaporate/dry naturally - do not touch the element at all.

After it has dried, please can you post the MAF readings at idle and at say 2500 rpm - need to see if we have an improvement
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Good news on the extra distance of travel.

Fingers crossed on the MAF clean. Usually, you give it several really good washes with the cleaner and then let it evaporate/dry naturally - do not touch the element at all.

After it has dried, please can you post the MAF readings at idle and at say 2500 rpm - need to see if we have an improvement
thanks. I will do it this way and yes, fingers crossed on maf 🤣🤣🤣
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Hi! Posting feedback:
I already did the MAF cleaning. Its easier than changing a flat tyre. I just unpluged 4 bolts (2 air filter carcas and 2 smaller ones in MAF sensor).
Air filter is OK as you guys can see (in fact it was new)
I bought the Liqui Moly cleaner and used whole can to clean the MAF. Im surprised that the sensor has that petroleum looking “drop”. Is that OK?

I will put it back tomorrow morning. I let you some photos here.

cheers guys
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Good news on the extra distance of travel.

Fingers crossed on the MAF clean. Usually, you give it several really good washes with the cleaner and then let it evaporate/dry naturally - do not touch the element at all.

After it has dried, please can you post the MAF readings at idle and at say 2500 rpm - need to see if we have an improvement
Should i make the test with the engine hot or right when I start it?
 
Well done on that work - the wire I can see is so much cleaner. I think the wire and the drop on the end could be the temp sensor - is the connector a 5 wire connector? if so there are both wires in there.

Is there a wire inside the end of the circular tube too - just checking to be sure

The MAF readings should work immediately, so either hot or cold will do
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Well done on that work - the wire I can see is so much cleaner. I think the wire and the drop on the end could be the temp sensor - is the connector a 5 wire connector? if so there are both wires in there.

Is there a wire inside the end of the circular tube too - just checking to be sure

The MAF readings should work immediately, so either hot or cold will do
yes, i could see something thin and metalic at the end of circular tube. Unfortunatelly i forgot my glasses. Posting results tomorrow. What you think about the sensor? Im not professional but looks like it was dirt as ********isnt it?
 
Well done with the cleaning, it was well cruddy as you say. Please can you ensure the thin metal is clean too - again with MAF sensor cleaner using the process above - do not touch it.

With those so cruddy, the readings will be way off, and there is simply no way the poor ECU could get your engine to run sweet.

What we must bear in mind, is that there may be multiple things wrong (not saying there is, but we need to think). if we clearly identify an issue, we must correct it (MAF/IAT in this case), then verify if we have solved it, or continue to chase. This is exactly the process I am going through with another fellow member

We will get there
 
Yes the bulb with wires is the intake temp sensor. The MAF wire is much thinner and well inside the tube so it's important to spray in there.
Your MAF unit was quite dirty, I'd check the integrity of the sealing of the intake in front of it to see where that dirt was getting in.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Morning guys! I already did all the checks. Theres some specs that i dont unserstand about the obd reader. Theres always now a yellow LED on. First time that i attached to the car i could see green light. Well let you some photos right after i put MAF back:

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your fuel trims are now looking spot on - the combined LT and ST being less than +/- 10% for each bank is excellent, it really is.

Suggest you run around for say 200 miles, just to let things settle. After that, can you use the reader to post the sensor voltages for bank 1 and 2 for sensor 1 (should be around 3.2V), and then the same for bank 1 and 2 sensor 2 (should be stable) I need to see this when the engine is warm and at idle. If the sensor 2 readings are stable, all well and good, the cats are fine - if the reading fluctuates over say a 3 minute time period, then the cats are not doing their job

Please let us know :) but so far those FT's are good
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
your fuel trims are now looking spot on - the combined LT and ST being less than +/- 10% for each bank is excellent, it really is.

Suggest you run around for say 200 miles, just to let things settle. After that, can you use the reader to post the sensor voltages for bank 1 and 2 for sensor 1 (should be around 3.2V), and then the same for bank 1 and 2 sensor 2 (should be stable) I need to see this when the engine is warm and at idle. If the sensor 2 readings are stable, all well and good, the cats are fine - if the reading fluctuates over say a 3 minute time period, then the cats are not doing their job

Please let us know :) but so far those FT's are good
Thank you BigPhil!! Already did 130 miles and still no MIL on. Fuel conssumption decreased, at low rpm, torque (ithink u call it this way) increased a bit also. I was doing 380 kms with full tank (almost half when sensors completely failed). Now looks like i can do at least 80 kms more. Will see.

one question, just for learning, what is LT and ST?

will post results tomorrow

thanks!!😍
 
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