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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I’m Looking for some options to mod my 11 V6, It’s pretty strong right from the get go with 269hp but it’s always nice to make it a bit faster just for fun. I’ve heard of the following.

1.Light weight wheel and tire combos
2.Intake
3. High flow muffler or exhaust.

*Any tuning options out there?
* 91+ octane make a difference ?

If anyone has done a light weight wheel combo I would like to know what you went with and if you know your 0-60mph (0-100kmh) reduction.
 

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1.Light weight wheel and tire combos - Enkei RPF1 wheels are lightweight and Firehawk indy500 tires are sticky.

2.Intake - WeaponR makes a SRI that works for the 2GRFE. I recommend modifying it to make a CAI. There's a thread already that shows the parts needed.

3. High flow muffler or exhaust - WeaponR makes some catless race headers that are based off the Sienna that shld work for the Rav4, will need a custom exhaust fabbed up from the headers back with an Xpipe and Magnaflow mufflers for optimal flow.

4. R9KTUNED (you can fine him via FB) tuned my Rav4 and tunes several 2GRFE Toyota platforms.

5. Stock ecu can learn and with 50-100 miles on premium you can gain a small hp/tq improvement.

Myxalplx has several threads and one was where he choose RPF1s and improved his 1/4 times.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1.Light weight wheel and tire combos - Enkei RPF1 wheels are lightweight and Firehawk indy500 tires are sticky.

2.Intake - WeaponR makes a SRI that works for the 2GRFE. I recommend modifying it to make a CAI. There's a thread already that shows the parts needed.

3. High flow muffler or exhaust - WeaponR makes some catless race headers that are based off the Sienna that shld work for the Rav4, will need a custom exhaust fabbed up from the headers back with an Xpipe and Magnaflow mufflers for optimal flow.

4. R9KTUNED (you can fine him via FB) tuned my Rav4 and tunes several 2GRFE Toyota platforms.

5. Stock ecu can learn and with 50-100 miles on premium you can gain a small hp/tq improvement.

Myxalplx has several threads and one was where he choose RPF1s and improved his 1/4 times.
Thanks for all the great information. Going to work on getting the parts I need over the next few weeks. I’m use to modifying FBodys but Ravs are a new world to me.

Appreciate all the information. Hoping to get some low 14 sec passes or better this summer if I can prep the right setup. Have always liked a good sleeper.
 

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Removing rear seats is good too....
If you can remove he rear door or remove at least the spare you will do better.
Take off the hitch if thats on there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Removing rear seats is good too....
If you can remove he rear door or remove at least the spare you will do better.
Take off the hitch if thats on there.
Weight reduction is a good idea, knock off a few more pounds for power to weight. Will post some slips once the track opens and if finish my modifications.

Really enjoy the power of the engine in stock form. Probably going to get a set of light weight wheels on order tonight.

Thanks for this info guys if you think of anything else let me know.
 

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You can check out ecomodder.com for info on the alt delete. They have a workaround to keep voltage up.
Aerodynamics start to matter around 45 mph and are in full effect by 65 mph. They have info on that over there too.
 

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Those are all drag-type mods. Not interested about stopping or how is turning?
This is my strut tower brace bar: SoNic67's 2011 RAV4 Limited

About stopping: I am kind of sad that I have only one piston on front brakes. My previous Hyundai XG350 and son's Ford Edge 2011 have dual pistons on front calipers. Same with my 2001 Ford Explorer (but that's a heavier vehicle). I feel that's would also be a nice upgrade to my Limited.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Strut tower brace bar looks pretty nice, as far as braking the RAV4 actualy has better stopping ability than the dual piston vehicles you have mentioned
stopping in
Rav4 122ft from 60
Edge 124ft from 60
XG350/Amanti 134ft from 60

thats not to say that they would fade easier if being worked
 

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You didn't provide any links for those numbers. Here you have different number:

"In Edmunds brake testing, an all-wheel-drive Ford Edge Sport stopped from 60 mph in a respectable 121 feet."
That's for a vehicle that weights 1000 lbs more.

I find a test for RAV4 my year, but personally I have reserves on the testing by motor tred:
Yes they say 122ft.

But for 2019 story changed:
"The 2019 RAV4 XSE Hybrid stopped from 60 to 0 mph in 143 feet, compared to the 131 feet it took an AWD 2019 Adventure non-hybrid model."
The 2019 has bigger discs than 2011 (12.0 inches in the front, 11.1 inches in the rear on 2019), so the 131 ft number seems that would be better than what 2011 can do.


Dual pistons definitely would help, if that would also be coupled with bigger (longer) brake pads. Especially on repeated braking.
 

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The V6 and 3rd row I4 models have larger brakes than the standard I4 models.
 

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The test on Edmunds is for a 2011 V6 Limited.

I am not saying that is bad, I just feel is adequate only for normal driving. For a "performance mods" topic, I am understanding we are expecting a more spirited driving.
Except if we are looking strictly at drag racing that is...
 

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The test on Edmunds is for a 2011 V6 Limited.
I am understanding we are expecting a more spirited driving.
With larger brakes on the V6 apparently Toyota did too.
 

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IMO that's because the V6 has a 3500lbs towing rating with TO package (versus 1500lbs), not because they expected a spirited driving.

296mm rotor versus 275mm on front.
Rear is the same.
But, what is weird is that AKEBONO has for 275mm both "Performance" (ASP) and "ProACT" (AST) pads, while for 296mm they have only ProACT (lower grade than Performance).
Almost like they don't want to put better braking on the 296mm.
For rear they have both flavors (Performance and ProACT).

Wonder if that is somehow related to traction/stability control? Bigger friction than that (on front) would imbalance the software too much?

I have a suspicion that that's why I can't get rear shocks in Monotube variant, everyone that I have asked (Bilstein, KYB, Gabriel) seems to stick to Twin Tube.

IMO is still room for improvement. Maybe not by cheap mods though.
That's why I started with $100 strut tower brace 😀
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Great info! As for the breaking from 60 it makes sense different testers could have different results within 5%.

I got lazy and did not post links but I’m also not one just to make things up.

Does anyone know the weight of factory 17” alloy wheels ? I’ve seen a few places with numbers all over the place but people seem to state around 23-26lbs. Found 2 good local deals on nearly new wheel tire setup.

Enkei J10 (16” @16.8lbs )
Tire BF Advantage TA(215 70 16 )
28lbs Approx
6 months old
Total weight 44.8lbs

DAI Satin black wheels (17” @18.8lbs)
Douglas M +S tires (225 65 17)
24lbs Approx
12 months old
Total weight 42.8lbs

Both setups under $350 locally near me, just want to see if the factory alloy is much lighter or if I should hold out for something drastically lighter.
 

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Note that only the weight itself is important for suspension behavior (un-suspended mass).
For acceleration, the inertial rotation moment is also very important, maybe more important. The bigger the radius, the bigger that rotational inertia is, and is dependent with the radius squared (if approx as a cylinder or thick walled tube):

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Found an interesting article(Attached) on 09+ RAV4 technical specifications. It states that we should be using 91 oct or higher fuel in V6 models it’s states 4cy can run on 87 oct or higher.
It’s the last 4 pages of the document if interested.

The Lexus RX350 makes
275hp in 2011 on Premium (91+)
Then drops to
270hp in 2012 on Regular (87+)

We have the same engine and compression ratio. Tuning might be different but that document is enough for me to try running 91+. I feel like different timing tables are probably programmed and would take effect after a tank or 2.
 

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I think the PCM tuning is different. That's how they can charge a premium for Lexus :ROFLMAO:

The document about changes is hilarious.
"The capacity of the console pocket has been increased in order to provide a space for storing a music player
or similar."
I cannot find anything to fit there. And even if, not fly off when braking would need some Velcro.

About the fuel, there is a difference between US/Canada style of grading (AKI or "(R+M)/2") versus the EU/Australia style RON/COR (considers only the "R" number).
Lots of my friends, when traveling in EU, say "whoa, see how good is the gasoline here?". They assume that the numbers written on the pumps are the same units.

This is from my manual: AKI (R+M)/2 = 87 or, in parenthesis, RON = 91.

150958


In your pdf is different, and the compression rations are slightly higher on the V6. Don't know if it is enough to make a difference.


150960
 
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