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Just that adding continuously normal oil, without any kind of oil changes, might create deposits.
Sorry man I usually agree with you, but this one's just too far out!

Meantime robfrav4, please feel free to ignore our interoffice banter.
 
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If you are burning oil at a fast rate would it not be better to use a thicker grade such as 10W30 conventional oil? This grade is thicker so it will slow the oil burning and reduce cost. Synthetic oil is great for extended oil change intervals but why pay a premium if it is not even going to last very long?
Agree, of course, it all depends on where you live and what temps you will be driving in
 

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The 5W30 would be better. Note that 5W is lighter than 10W at start up so you get less value train wear. At operating temperature, both oils would have the same viscosity SAE30. Of course the synthetic would perform better than the mineral
 

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I swear by Lucas products. I have just over 100k miles on my '98 which Toyota recommends 5w-30. Since I've owned it (2007), for each oil change I add a 1/2 quart of -Lucas "Synthetic Oil Stabilizer" with Mobil1 0w-30 (synthetic) which Mobil says can be substituted for 5w-30 recs and I figure the Lucas stabilizer will thicken the oil just a bit. The engine still runs like new with no burning and no leaks and have yet to replace a seal (the timing belt, water pump, etc. service coming soon).

For your oil-burning vehicle, I would try adding a quart of -Lucas "High Mileage Oil Stabilizer" with or without a complete change and 5w-30 oil if you do (stay with the 5w-20 if you live in an icy clime). If you still don't see real improvement, you can try a quart of the -Lucas "Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer" which will slow the burn, tho it's likely your piston rings and possibly internal bearings need replacing soon (assuming you're not leaking). .

If you're getting blue-grey smoke at start-up, you may have worn valve guide seals that allow seeping of oil into the combustion chamber while it's sitting (i.e.: overnight) -- I've heard it's sorta common on 1st-gen. RAV4's, not sure about yours.
 

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Lucas thickens the oil a lot, depending how much you use. The heavy duty Lucas has viscosity at 100C of 110 cSt, the Synthetic one has 45 cSt, while the normal 5W-30 oil has like 10-12 cSt.
If you don't care too much about slightly increased gas mileage, I agree that's good stuff, especially for engines over 100k miles that have oil pressure issues (noisy at idle with hot engine) or burn oil because valve stems.

PS: Lucas makes a low viscosity additive (19.5 cSt), for newer cars: Low Viscosity Stabilizer
 

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Personally , if I were you based on your story, and are willing to do oil changes yourself .... I would Switch to using ROYAL PURPLE oil !
 

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I didn't say that. Just that adding continuously normal oil, without any kind of oil changes, might create deposits.
So what? It's 14 years old with 180K, and burns oil!!!! Deposits, IF even possible, are the least of the worries.
 

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Lucas thickens the oil a lot, depending how much you use. The heavy duty Lucas has viscosity at 100C of 110 cSt, the Synthetic one has 45 cSt, while the normal 5W-30 oil has like 10-12 cSt.
If you don't care too much about slightly increased gas mileage, I agree that's good stuff, especially for engines over 100k miles that have oil pressure issues (noisy at idle with hot engine) or burn oil because valve stems.

PS: Lucas makes a low viscosity additive (19.5 cSt), for newer cars: Low Viscosity Stabilizer
I think you mean "slightly decreased gas mileage"?

--the "Heavy Duty" Lucas is quite thick - not a casual additive for today's engines. The Synthetic is more of a treatment and a 1/2 quart to the 4+ quarts total won't kill the fuel economy. --I didn't know about the Low Viscosity version (y), that would be the best option for a new / late model car. . I use the Lucas ATF Conditioner (with synthetic AMSOIL) in the trans., and immediately notice the improvement of the torque converter's responsiveness in overdrive.
 

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I think you mean "slightly decreased gas mileage"?
LOL, yeah, decreased. After all those years since I moved to "mpg", sometimes I am still thinking backwards in terms of consumption "liters/100km".

o what? It's 14 years old with 180K, and burns oil!!!! Deposits, IF even possible, are the least of the worries.
I have two Fords with 19 year old / 190-200k miles engines and a 20 yr old Hyundai with 170k miles. All engines and transmissions still functional.
Lubrication is the FIRST of my worry and secondly the cooling. Deposits in the path of those fluids, will reduce the flow, and that will increase wear. That is what kills an engine. Just because a car is "old", doesn't mean that we can treat it now worse than a new car.
But that just my personal opinion, and I agree to disagree. Maybe I am collecting too many cars, not in the true American consumerism spirit.
 

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I swear by Lucas products. I have just over 100k miles on my '98 which Toyota recommends 5w-30. Since I've owned it (2007), for each oil change I add a 1/2 quart of -Lucas "Synthetic Oil Stabilizer" with Mobil1 0w-30 (synthetic) which Mobil says can be substituted for 5w-30 recs and I figure the Lucas stabilizer will thicken the oil just a bit. The engine still runs like new with no burning and no leaks and have yet to replace a seal (the timing belt, water pump, etc. service coming soon).

For your oil-burning vehicle, I would try adding a quart of -Lucas "High Mileage Oil Stabilizer" with or without a complete change and 5w-30 oil if you do (stay with the 5w-20 if you live in an icy clime). If you still don't see real improvement, you can try a quart of the -Lucas "Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer" which will slow the burn, tho it's likely your piston rings and possibly internal bearings need replacing soon (assuming you're not leaking). .

If you're getting blue-grey smoke at start-up, you may have worn valve guide seals that allow seeping of oil into the combustion chamber while it's sitting (i.e.: overnight) -- I've heard it's sorta common on 1st-gen. RAV4's, not sure about yours.
I swear by Lucas products, had a new 2K Rodeo that "USED" oil from the start, weird because I never saw any smoke, I found the best way to help was
to use
Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection SAE 15W-40 Engine Oil WITH A QUART OF LUCAS "Synthetic Oil Stabilizer"... I LIVE IN NORTH FLORIDA SO THE 15W-40 WAS JUST FINE, IT ALMOST STOPPED THE OIL USAGE. I ALSO USE LUCAS LUCAS Fuel Treatment IN ALL MY GASOLINE-POWERED "MACHINES", JUST MY EXPERIENCE...
 

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I swear by Lucas products,
You may swear by them but writing in all bold caps makes it seem like you're SWEARING AT us and won't convince anyone. I reduced your font but please do so yourself next time.

Meantime robfrav4, the OP, has made his oil decision and is likely, maybe hopefully, ignoring our semi-rants.
 
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