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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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I finally put together a writeup for how I went about installing my 7-pin wiring harness with full brake controller functionality. I have a 2019 XLE AWD. The attached PDF is probably the best thing to look at, but I'm attaching all my photos I documented along the way. They should line up and work together:

PDF write-up:

Photo library:

I'm open to any criticism or any input anyone has. There weren't any solid documents on how to do this when I first started it all, so a lot of this was me figuring out / inferring things on my own. Some recent stuff has been coming out pertaining to the gen 5, so people have probably figured out some better ways to go about some portions of this (for example: just recently I saw a Russian video showing a prefab hole penetrating the firewall behind the battery, oops!). I eventually reached the finish line and I'm proud of myself for doing so.
Hopefully some of you can get some use out of this!-

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Thanks much for sharing and for putting the time and effort into this very informative posting! Was looking for a comprehensive resource, like this, before tackling this project.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks much for sharing and for putting the time and effort into this very informative posting! Was looking for a comprehensive resource, like this, before tackling this project.
Absolutely! Let me know if you see anything when you starting digging into it. I'll be editing / adding additional info as needed along the way. Already noticing a few oops items (like calling the 10amp fuse 7amp in a photo)
 

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Absolutely! Let me know if you see anything when you starting digging into it. I'll be editing / adding additional info as needed along the way. Already noticing a few oops items (like calling the 10amp fuse 7amp in a photo)
Will keep checking. Thanks, in advance, for the updates!
 

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Thanks much for sharing and for putting the time and effort into this very informative posting! Was looking for a comprehensive resource, like this, before tackling this project.
Agreed! I'm making this a sticky because many members will find it very helpful.
 

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A few comments based on my installation of half a dozen brake controllers.

1. NEVER buy a "timed" controller. They are inexpensive BUT can't adjust braking force for speed or vehicle attitude (uphill, level or downhill). One of their supposed "advantages" is "mounts in any direction." I'm surprised they are even legal.

2. Use a proportional controller as shown in this install. There are many different one available. The choice may come down to where the adjustment controls are on the unit. For instance in this write-up the buttons are on top of the controller and thus hard to access after installation.

3. After using Tekonsha, admittedly older models, exclusively for years I've switched to the Curt Triflex 51140 after my 10+ year-old Tekonsha became virtually impossible to adjust correctly. When set right you can't even tell the trailer is attached when braking. I do have to say that my Curt did fail after a year but one call to them got a me a new one shipped Priority for free. I didn't get to take to old one apart tho because they also sent a return label for it.

4. Altho I've run the wiring underneath on a Honda Passport and on Pickups you have no other choice, I prefer the inside path behind the sill and side panels as I did on a RAV4. You may need a firewall penetration at the front and a floor one at the rear but otherwise all wiring is safely inside.

5. Installing the 4/7 pin connector fixture into the underside of the bumper is really slick.

6. Altho the 150A rating is a little overkill the breaker/switch unit is perfect for a non-use disconnect. Would've been handy when my BIL and our wives were towing a Scamp trailer in Alaska. To keep the 12V circuits in the trailer from possibly running down the RAV4's battery we had to remember to disconnect the 7-round cable each night.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
A few comments based on my installation of half a dozen brake controllers.

1. NEVER buy a "timed" controller. They are inexpensive BUT can't adjust braking force for speed or vehicle attitude (uphill, level or downhill). One of their supposed "advantages" is "mounts in any direction." I'm surprised they are even legal.

2. Use a proportional controller as shown in this install. There are many different one available. The choice may come down to where the adjustment controls are on the unit. For instance in this write-up the buttons are on top of the controller and thus hard to access after installation.

3. After using Tekonsha, admittedly older models, exclusively for years I've switched to the Curt Triflex 51140 after my 10+ year-old Tekonsha became virtually impossible to adjust correctly. When set right you can't even tell the trailer is attached when braking. I do have to say that my Curt did fail after a year but one call to them got a me a new one shipped Priority for free. I didn't get to take to old one apart tho because they also sent a return label for it.

4. Altho I've run the wiring underneath on a Honda Passport and on Pickups you have no other choice, I prefer the inside path behind the sill and side panels as I did on a RAV4. You may need a firewall penetration at the front and a floor one at the rear but otherwise all wiring is safely inside.

5. Installing the 4/7 pin connector fixture into the underside of the bumper is really slick.

6. Altho the 150A rating is a little overkill the breaker/switch unit is perfect for a non-use disconnect. Would've been handy when my BIL and our wives were towing a Scamp trailer in Alaska. To keep the 12V circuits in the trailer from possibly running down the RAV4's battery we had to remember to disconnect the 7-round cable each night.
Excellent, thanks Dr. Dyno!

4. Fully agree. If I did this over again I'd go that route, there's an easy wiring channel inside the interior plastic covers at the floor of the doors. Initially looked into running the cables through there but I wasn't sure how to get them through the firewall. But, a recent 4-pin tutorial details a prefab penetration behind the battery (@5:25 of this youtube video). Kind of kicking myself for not finding that, oh well.

6. Bingo, exactly my use with my camper. Also like having things off when I'm not using 'em. 150A is completely overkill and honestly redundant / not needed, was just after the switch on it! A non-breaker switch would work just as well, but I couldn't find a good one that fit the spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, at the sake of losing most of my credibility, the brake signal was NOT the turquoise wire! Finally got a Curt 7-pin tester (was using a multimeter before) and things were behaving a bit strange. After a couple of hours troubleshooting, finally figured out that the turquoise wire only remains at high voltage for a few seconds after the brake pedal is pushed, then goes back down to a low voltage state even if it remains held down. Gah! I originally got help from uhaul finding this wire and they actually tapped it for me for free, so can't exactly hold them to fix it. I should have done better due diligence and thoroughly tested it after they tapped it. I just saw a higher voltage when braked and thought all was good.

I'm planning on picking up my Aliner camper this weekend, so this means I'll be spending the next few nights finding the correct brake pedal wire... I'll update the PDF when I fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Found the wire! Went back to uhaul and after a bit they gave up on it, called the dealership and they didn't want to do it, so here we are. I tapped the RED/WHITE wire, inside the cable bundle under the plastic covers at the floor of the driver door.

This signal is feeding the left brake light (0v low +12v high). I was a little iffy poking around are the connector on top of the brake pedal (the place all other brake controllers are tapped at) due to it being really hard to access, thanks Toyota. Secondly, I wasn't fond of the idea of Toyota Safety Sense not controlling the trailer brakes during a pre-collision event or for dynamic cruise control. This solved those woes. Towing with it last weekend went very smoothly!
 
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