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Discussion Starter #1
So I've got a 2012 I4 RAV that's coming up on 75k miles. I've had it for the past ~25k miles or so, and haven't done anything other than oil and air filters (inside and out). It's a "certified pre-owned", so it's under a powertrain warranty for another ~25k miles. Going to be doing some stuff on it in the next few weeks to make sure it's in tip top shape, but nothing that could jeopardize any warranty situations.

So far it's:
Oil change (Mobile 1 0w30 synthetic, with filter)
Tranny fluid flush (still debating if I should drop the pan and replace the filter while doing it - Toyota WS fluid, can I reuse plug gasket, or must I replace?)
Rear diff and T-case (Valvoline 80w90, do I need to replace crush washers or can I reuse?)
Brake fluid (Dot 3/4 - turkey baster out what I can, fill with new - then farthest to closest wheels, yada yada)
Coolant flush and fill (found Zerex red, 2 gallons premixed should do it)
Spark plugs (NGK LFR5AGP)

Am I missing anything? Thanks for such a great resource!
 

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I like your approach to fluid swaps. You don't list where you're from so that has some effect. There is a Canadian maintenance schedule which is more 'aggressive' like yours, and I follow that mostly since weather here has its cold spells. For reference I'm at 92k miles. Keep in mind fluids are highly subjective topics.

Oil change--I stayed with one of the recommended ranges 5w-20 and use Mobil 1 synth. (Maybe for your 2012 they also spec 0w-30?) There is a TSB for cold start rattle. While no problem here, will not tempt fate with something different.
Tranny service--I've done two drain and refill only. Plan to drop pan and filter at 100k. Reused the crush washer first time, not the second.
Rear diff and T-case--I used Valvoline 80w-90 first time, then switched to Valvoline 75w-90 synth second time. Same usage as tranny washer switch.
Brake fluid swap--good for you! The maintenance guide doesn't mention this much in US book, but the Canadian does. You're in the zone.
Coolant flush--I've done two drain and refills, not a complete flush. Each time 1 gallon was sufficient. I stayed with OEM Toyota SLL 50-50.
Spark plugs--I have the OEM Denso SK16HR11 on hand but not yet swapped. I noticed a tiny tiny bit of MPG loss, might be the plugs. So why not. Easy peasy change on the 4-banger.

Enjoy the DIY!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where did you get the tranny, rear diff and t-case crush washers and such? As this is the first time I've swapped any of those fluids, I'm going to attempt to reuse those this time, but would like to go new for next time and make sure I have the correct replacement parts. I've seen some on Amazon, but I'm not 100% sure they are what's needed for this transmission.

Also, word to the wise on the T-case....BE SURE YOU CAN ACCESS AND REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST, before doing anything with the drain plug. Good thing I did that, as my 10mm hex bit and ratchet together was a bit too long (deep) to grip the fill plug. I had to borrow a 10mm allen key and small metal bar to access and remove it properly.
 

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Where did you get the tranny, rear diff and t-case crush washers and such? As this is the first time I've swapped any of those fluids, I'm going to attempt to reuse those this time, but would like to go new for next time and make sure I have the correct replacement parts. I've seen some on Amazon, but I'm not 100% sure they are what's needed for this transmission.

Also, word to the wise on the T-case....BE SURE YOU CAN ACCESS AND REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST, before doing anything with the drain plug. Good thing I did that, as my 10mm hex bit and ratchet together was a bit too long (deep) to grip the fill plug. I had to borrow a 10mm allen key and small metal bar to access and remove it properly.
You can get the crush washers from Toyota dealer service dept. Their not expensive.
 

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I get some stuff from my local Toyota dealer. Lately, they raised prices and charge $2 to walk to the back and get any order, even a drain plug gasket!

Several Toyota dealer parts depts have online sales. To save postage, lump a lot of things together like air, oil and cabin filters, gaskets, those pesky plastic clips, etc., and save on postage. The prices do change so you have to check around. Last time I used these guys: https://parts.arlingtontoyota.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=drain%20plug%20gasket

I've also used Amazon.
 

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I get some stuff from my local Toyota dealer. Lately, they raised prices and charge $2 to walk to the back and get any order, even a drain plug gasket!

Several Toyota dealer parts depts have online sales. To save postage, lump a lot of things together like air, oil and cabin filters, gaskets, those pesky plastic clips, etc., and save on postage. The prices do change so you have to check around. Last time I used these guys: https://parts.arlingtontoyota.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=drain plug gasket

I've also used Amazon.
The day will never dawn when I would pay him 2 bucks to go and get my order. Because when he comes back I will have left the building.:mad:
 

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The day will never dawn when I would pay him 2 bucks to go and get my order. Because when he comes back I will have left the building.:mad:
Yeah, I noticed the "Parts Handling Fee $1.99" was tacked on when I got home with a couple of wiper refills. That was a little over two years ago. Too bad for them, I now usually shop online.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've now done two "flush and fills" of my transmission. The first was just that, but the second time (this past weekend) I dropped the pan to change the filter and clean the magnets.

Pro tip - when dropping the pan, after draining as much fluid from drain plug as you can, take out all pan bolts but 1 or 2 closest to the front of the vehicle. Then loosen those last bolts and let the pan hang a bit - it will dip down farther near where the drain of the pan is - really helps not to make a mess when it finally drops. You'll still get another 1/2 quart or so when you remove the filter.

The fluid was very black, even after the first first flush and fill. It's much better looking on the dipstick now after filling it back up, but still purple. May do another flush and fill this fall when I change my oil again. Not hard to do at all, but will take some time.
 

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Did you find very much sludge buildup in the bottom of the pan or particles on the magnets? Some have said the filter and pan were in good shape at lower miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you find very much sludge buildup in the bottom of the pan or particles on the magnets? Some have said the filter and pan were in good shape at lower miles.
I don't know if I'd call it "sludge", but it was very dark nasty oil in the bottom of the pan (it would need to be a thicker consistency for me to call it "sludge"). All three of the magnets had quite a bit of particulate on them. Not sure I'll ever need to do that again (maybe if I get to 200k miles) as most of the wear happens early on.
 
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