97 rav long crank when hot
Long crank hot only , cold start no problem. New injectors,distributor,fuel pump, fuel filter,plugs, timing belt done , map sensor. Parts changed months ago, I live in Costa Rica and have difficulty getting parts so I did this work in hopes of no driving concerns. I’m Not a part changer to solve a problem but to keep from having one.
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Was my thought also , but nothing has changed in months except this long crank.
1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, 5-door, JDM engine installed in 2013
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On a 1997 Rav4 (so a distributor is present), I would be checking the ignition coil and igniter. The ignition coil and igniter are notorious for acting up when aged and failing and the engine is hot (as opposed to cold).
I think best practices is that, if either the ignition coil or igniter requires replacement, then replace the other as well.
I think best practices is that, if either the ignition coil or igniter requires replacement, then replace the other as well.
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On my 2000 (no distributor; two coil packs instead), one pack died suddenly, while waiting at a stoplight. Limped home on two cylinders.
Another time a newish but cheap timing belt stretched and kept jumping teeth. Kept running though (fortunately the 3S-FE is a non-interference engine) -- ran well when at the nearly correct alignment, but then much worse to awful when way misaligned. New, quality belt kit solved the problem.
Another time a newish but cheap timing belt stretched and kept jumping teeth. Kept running though (fortunately the 3S-FE is a non-interference engine) -- ran well when at the nearly correct alignment, but then much worse to awful when way misaligned. New, quality belt kit solved the problem.
Drove 4 hours yesterday and still a concern. Cap loose and still long crank
belt is good no cracks or even any signs of wear or loose.
I’ll try an ingniter and coil if I can get one or wait till the end of the month when someone can bring me them
great advice thanks to all of you .will post when parts installed thanks again.
belt is good no cracks or even any signs of wear or loose.
I’ll try an ingniter and coil if I can get one or wait till the end of the month when someone can bring me them
great advice thanks to all of you .will post when parts installed thanks again.
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Thanks for all the comments. I said I would post the answer to my problem. Well this is the answer to my problem of long crank time hot I figured it might have been a fuel problem but it never showed up I replaced the fuel pump anyway with a new Bosch and it solve my problem. it sounds kind of crazy but I always have plenty of fuel pressure I hope this helps the community if anyone else has a problem.
there is also a fuel reg on the end of the fuel rail on the injection cars.
and yes they od go bad over time.
i always replace the three in the fuel system at the same time
fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel regulator.
and clean the injectors and injector screens and replace the injector seals as well.
an air leak at the injectors can be a common problem.
it is that while you are in there thing on an older engine.
and check all of the vac lines as well.
trim the ends at the min to get a fresh tight fit.
or replace the vac lines with modern silicone lines that will last 10+ years.
and yes they od go bad over time.
i always replace the three in the fuel system at the same time
fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel regulator.
and clean the injectors and injector screens and replace the injector seals as well.
an air leak at the injectors can be a common problem.
it is that while you are in there thing on an older engine.
and check all of the vac lines as well.
trim the ends at the min to get a fresh tight fit.
or replace the vac lines with modern silicone lines that will last 10+ years.
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