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98 Toyota Rav4 Electrical issues

29K views 56 replies 13 participants last post by  Byrd 33 
#1 ·
Hey All, Bob from West Chester, Pennsylvania.

I got some odd electrical issues happening with my 1998 Rav4, 4 door, US Market. I have an issue where I can start my car, but not everything is working. No power windows, No AC, No turning signals, Car wont shift out of park (without manually doing so). I am getting power, as i can start and some systems are working such as horn, power locks, interior cabin lights.

Some work I have done is replaced the alternator with a new one. I have replaced the battery with a new one. I have checked all fuses, and found nothing blown, but replaced the three main ones by the battery with new ones anyway (just in case, but no luck). I have replaced the negative battery cable, and I have no corrosive leads. And I am still having the same issue.

I am seeing on some forums discussion about the ECU and i am wondering if that is a possibility.

Where is the location of the ECU in a 1998 toyota rav4? US market.

I have seen other videos, and forums but the 4 inch X 2inch square box does not seem to be behind or under the glove box passenger side.
I have taken off the panels and removed glove box, and nothing matches that description in those locations.

Can anyone help with the location of the ECU, or provide advice on what else may be causing these issues. They ALL happened at the same time, so i believe they are related. Any actual help would be appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
I have an issue where I can start my car, but not everything is working. No power windows, No AC, No turning signals, Car wont shift out of park (without manually doing so). I am getting power, as i can start and some systems are working such as horn, power locks, interior cabin lights.
...
Where is the location of the ECU in a 1998 toyota rav4? US market.
The ECU is in front of the center console (so in front of your automatic transmission stick shift), on the floor and beneath the radio. But I am doubtful the ECU is causing these problems.

Does your radio work? I am betting it does not.

I am suspicious of the ignition switch. When it is in the "on position" (but with the engine not running), your power windows and turn signals (not sure about the AC fan) should work. When it is off, the power windows and turn signals will not work, but the power locks and the interior cabin lights will (not sure about the horn).

Do you have a multimeter? Can you check whether the downstream side of the 10 amp ECU-IG fuse (under the dash; see photo) gives 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the "on" position?

I attach electrical diagrams that someone here or elsewhere graciously provided. Also I attach a photo of the inside cover for the fuse box near the driver's right knee. It shows which fuse is the ECU-IG fuse.
 

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#3 ·
No power windows, No AC, No turning signals, Car wont shift out of park (without manually doing so). I am getting power, as i can start and some systems are working such as horn, power locks, interior cabin lights.
I agree with Elle_Rav4. Probably the ignition switch is the culprit.

Power windows, AC, wipers, rear defogger and turning signals all work with the ignition switch turned to "ON". Whereas horn, power locks, dome lights, hazard lights and headlights work even with the ignition switch turned to "OFF".
What about "ACC" position? Do the radio, cig lighter socket and clock work? These should work when the key is either in "ACC" or "ON" position.

Check all of the above. If the switch is indeed faulty, ALL of the "ON" accessories should not work. If some of them work, it could be a specific fuse. Similarly, ALL of the "OFF" accessories should work. If some of them do not work, it could again be another fuse.

Where is the location of the ECU in a 1998 toyota rav4? US market.
https://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/284657-where-my-ecm-ecu-pcm-located.html
 
#4 ·
The ECU is in front of the center console (so in front of your automatic transmission stick shift), on the floor and beneath the radio. But I am doubtful the ECU is causing these problems.

Does your radio work? I am betting it does not.

I am suspicious of the ignition switch. When it is in the "on position" (but with the engine not running), your power windows and turn signals (not sure about the AC fan) should work. When it is off, the power windows and turn signals will not work, but the power locks and the interior cabin lights will (not sure about the horn).

Do you have a multimeter? Can you check whether the downstream side of the 10 amp ECU-IG fuse (under the dash; see photo) gives 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the "on" position?

I attach electrical diagrams that someone here or elsewhere graciously provided. Also I attach a photo of the inside cover for the fuse box near the driver's right knee. It shows which fuse is the ECU-IG fuse.

UPDATE 11/1/2018:
I have replaced both the fuse and the ignition switch you have spoken of. I thought you may have had it there. But I still have the same issue. Power windows, turning signals, and AC, do not work, and i cannot shift out of park without manual. All of these things happened at the same time, so i believe they are related. I have replaced the alternator, and the battery and negative battery lead. I have checked all fuses multiple times.



I am now back to square one.



Can anyone help what the problem may be?


Any guesses would be helpful.
 
#9 ·
UPDATE 11/1/2018:
I have replaced both the fuse and the ignition switch you have spoken of. I thought you may have had it there. But I still have the same issue. Power windows, turning signals, and AC, do not work, and i cannot shift out of park without manual. All of these things happened at the same time, so i believe they are related. I have replaced the alternator, and the battery and negative battery lead. I have checked all fuses multiple times.



I am now back to square one.



Can anyone help what the problem may be?


Any guesses would be helpful.

Do your turn signals work if you turn on Hazard Switch? This switch powers turn signals blinker from alternative fuse so it would be interesting to see if the turn lights work in this case.
Do your wipers work? These are fed from the same power line as turn signals but through a different fuse.


Just in case- how exactly did you check the fuses?
 
#5 ·
Back to this: Can you check whether [each] side of the 10 amp ECU-IG fuse (under the dash; see photo) gives 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the "on" position?

Buy a test light, such as that sold here: https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-61652.html . Autozone has these test lights as well. Here is a video explaining how to test each side of the fuse:

The reason I have you checking the power on each side of this fuse is that it will narrow down the possible source of the problem. If the test light does not light for either side of the fuse, this means you will be checking wiring and other possible sources of the problem upstream of the ECU-IG fuse.
 
#6 ·
Have you checked the IG1 relay?

It is located on the back on the fuse panel by the drivers knee, it is the largest of the 4 relays. Bad contacts in a relay often cause intermittent problems.


When you turn the key to on; it is the IG1 relay that turns on the power to three circuits, WIPERS, ECU-IG and TURN & GAUGE.
 
#7 · (Edited)
In reading your OP, what came immediately to mind is "ECU." Can cause "intermittent" or "random seeming" problems when they start to fritz out.
Did you run a sophisticated OBDII Scan Tool on your '98? Did it throw any Diagnostic Codes? AutoZone will run OBDII for you if you don't own a scanner.

Please keep us updated & know what your solution turns out to be, thanks.
 
#8 ·
If I may add, a 10 amp turn signal fuse needs to be checked (left knee) and if it is good you need to go to the heater relay. But first go to the 50 amp fuse link (located by the battery In the black box and check it for current flow. The 10 amp turn fuse also powers the heater relay to energize the relay so the 50 amp fuse takes over and supply's power to the switch and the blower thru the blower resistor. If the 10 amp fuse is good you should at least have low and hi speeds and turn signals. If not heater relay should be scrutinized. Hope this helps and keep us posted . you will loose your guy card if you do not report back.
 
#10 ·
Have you checked your grounds, these old girls are showing their age and grounds are a problem. I was having intermittent issues until I cleaned, and upgraded all my engine/transmission grounds.

See My Garage in the Under the Hood section - https://www.rav4world.com/forums/garage.php?do=viewvehicle&vehicle_id=8241

Unless you upgraded your alternator like I did 4 gauge wire would be more than enough.

Another place to look is at the ECU connections, pull the cables loose blow them out, apply some contact cleaner followed by a little dielectric grease.
 
#12 ·
First post on the forum but I was experiancing the same electrical issues I suggest inspecting the under hood fuse box for water intrusion , where I inspected mine I found plenty type of green corrosion and the board inside the fuse box corroded which I am assuming is what is stopping the ig1 relay from being energized . Hope this is helpful as I said first post !
 
#14 ·
Well, that's one way to fix a problem. Congrats on the 2008, is it the V6 or I4 engine?
 
#15 ·
hello guys,
a Rav4 man from Quebec Canada, I found this post, I have the same dam problem,
the battery is not charging so at the beginning I thought it was the alternator, I replace it but still same issue and plus no flasher ( hazard works though), no heater, no milleage, no radio, no wiper

I checked the fuses under the dash, all the fuses on the left have no power ( including wipers, ECU-IG and Turn&gauge ),
the fuses under the dash ( on the left side ) are fine,
I was looking for the IG1 relay to do a test BUT I was not able to find it, please where is it located exactely,
 

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#56 ·
hello guys,
a Rav4 man from Quebec Canada, I found this post, I have the same dam problem,
the battery is not charging so at the beginning I thought it was the alternator, I replace it but still same issue and plus no flasher ( hazard works though), no heater, no milleage, no radio, no wiper

I checked the fuses under the dash, all the fuses on the left have no power ( including wipers, ECU-IG and Turn&gauge ),
the fuses under the dash ( on the left side ) are fine,
I was looking for the IG1 relay to do a test BUT I was not able to find it, please where is it located exactely,
Recently had the same issue with my RAV4 took it to a mechanic and they changed the door jam switch. They changed all four of them for each door because it was draining the battery. Aside from that I had checked the fuses and switched out all the old ones for new ones. My windshield wipers do not work and my left and right signals do work however they do not work when I press the hazard button and my hazards do not work at all. If anyone has information on how to solve that please let me know.
 
#17 ·
( ( * note that before that I had another electrical trouble as in

''after the key was removed form the ignition, the car would continue to power the radiator fan and several things inside the dash like the radio, ac/heater fan, utility outlet etc...''

I was able to deal with that by inserting a switch between the ground and negative of the battery to ''force'' the car to shut down ( I relieved the symptoms but never checked for the source of the trouble), now I have no choice I must find where this trouble is coming from, ))

the car is starting fine ( when the battery is in full charge of course ), the headlight and rearlight are working,

Thank you for your help
 
#18 · (Edited)
-- What year is your Rav4? FWD or AWD? Manual or Automatic transmission? If you can put this in your signature line or profile, this would help in the future.

-- For a 1998-2000 Rav4, for the location of the IG1 relay, see pages 1 and 4 of the relaylocations attachment. It appears to be in the instrument panel junction box (j/b).

-- I also attach a set of the 1999 Rav4 wiring diagrams.

-- At the moment, I think a failing ignition switch is the most likely culprit. But if you can clarify as follows, I might get more certainty on this theory.

-- With the key removed from the ignition; the battery connected as it normally would be; the dashboard a/c button on the HVAC panel in the off (out) position; the cabin a/c-heater fan switch off; and the radio turned off, please list all electrical parts that are running. E.g. under the aforementioned conditions (key removed; battery connected; et cetera) do both fans in the engine bay for the radiator and a/c condenser turn on? Or is just one of the latter two fans running? Is the radio on? Is the cabin compartment a/c-heater fan on ?

-- You posted, "no flasher (hazard works though), no heater, no [odometer?], no radio, no wiper." In what position is the ignition key when none of these things are working?

-- Because you mentioned no "milleage," I gather you are referring to a digital odometer. Which would make your Rav4 a 1998-2000 Rav4.
 

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#19 ·
hello, ( I just saw your message) First of all thank you a lot for your help and all the informations,
you are right it is a 1998 Rav4 FWD ( with an option below the radio on the left to have 4 wheel spinning just in case),
with a digital odometer, manual ( 4 door), no air condition,

few months ago, I had this '' intermittent '' trouble, when the key is removed or even with the key in ( ACC ) the radiator and the front light goes on, sometimes the radio too ( honestly when that happen I didn't check if it was the 2 radiator fans or only one of them), curiously by turning the key to ON ( relays click), the fan radiator stop ( but not everytime), finally I bypassed the problem by putting a switch between the ground cable and the negative to be able to shutdown the battery from inside the car ( I passed the cables and I installed the switch below the radio ),

I didn't look for the source of the problem and just bypassed it but now I am stuck because the battery is not charging anymore, first I replaced the alternator but now obviously I can said that the charging problem is not coming from the alternator,

I have a battery charger so the car start perfectly when the battery is full charged but something doesn't allow the alternator to charge the battery and apparently this same thing doesn't allow power on flashers ( hazards work), odometer, heater fan, radio, ( whatever position ACC, ON, START)

also I will do the test you are asking with the key off ( I will disconnect my ''bypass switch'' and connect the battery negative directly to the ground ( how it was originally before) and like that I will be able to tell you about the radiator fans, but as I said it is intermittent, it may take a while before light and radiator goes on with the key off ( weird) ),

Thank you again for the document, I will check them carefully, and I will keep you updated,

see you, take care
 
#21 ·
Two tests to try:
-- Next time things turn on with the key out of the ignition, go to the engine bay fuse box near the driver's side strut tower. Remove fuse "AM2." It should be fuse #5 with a 5 amp rating. See page 60 of the wiring diagram.

-- Alternatively, it sounds like there is a parasitic load on your battery, causing the battery to be drained after you remove the key and walk away from the vehicle. It may be an intermittent drain, depending on whatever gremlins in the ignition switch are at work at any given time. To test for this, see
 
#22 ·
hello, thank you again, I was working on the car this evening, just came back home now ( it is becoming dark) and just saw your post right now, I will remove the AM2 ,

so, so far I found the IG1 relay ( thank you again ), it is behind the fuse box ( dash), (if that can be helpful for someone else ),

I got 12 V on the pin 5 and around 2 V on the pin3 and nothing on the pin1 and pin2
+++ while I was working on the car the battery was plugged, maybe about 40 min later while testing the relays, the FAN radiator start ( this time no headlight, nothing else apparently, just the radiator fan) and I have only one radiator Fan,
and with the key whatever the key position or without the key, the fan turn ( I have to unplug the battery to stop it)

I don't know yet if it is ''normal'' but I found no power relay ( what is it for ),

now I guess I need to find what feed the ACC relay and the IG1 relay ( I am going to study again carefully the wiring diagram ),

next time I will remove the AM2 and tell you what happen,

I am still trying to understand why the alternator doesn't charge the battery ( I feel there is something there that will give the solution),

I am going back to study those plans, thank you again a lot
 

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#35 ·
I don't know yet if it is ''normal'' but I found no power relay ( what is it for ),
I see the Power Relay on page 52 of the 1999Rav4WiringSearchable.pdf file. Page 52 shows the Power Relay's coil receiving power from the integration relay. The Power Relay provides power to both the power window master switch (on the driver's side) and the front passenger power window switch. Does your 1998 Rav4 have power windows? If so, do they work okay?

The Power Relay also appears on page 4 of the 1999Rav4RelayLocations.pdf file.

Per what Roundabout posted, I am keeping in mind that the wiring diagrams may have some differences from what actually exists on your Rav4.
 
#23 ·
I am thinking the alternator charges the battery just fine when you go for a drive. But subsequently, you return home, remove the key, and let the Rav4 sit. The ignition switch (or some other electrical part) is failing, causing amps to be drawn from the battery. By morning, the battery has lost charge.

Right after you go for a drive, you could check the battery voltage. Then stop the Rav4, leave the battery connected, and check the voltage a few hours or later. If the voltage has dropped, you probably have a parasitic draw.

Is the one fan you have on the vehicle's left side or the right side (in the engine bay)?

Please let me know if removing fuse 5 (AM2) stops the fan.
 
#24 ·
hello ( good morning),
thank you for the question : the radiator fan is on the left side,
about the alternator, actually when the car start as soon as I remove the positive of the battery the engine stop,
it is why I think the alternator doesn't charge the battery,
and this problem is recent ( probably related with the issue of heather fan, flasher, radio and digital odometer not working, wiper ),

before when I had the issue with the radiator fan starting, by using the ''bypass switch'' ( to cut the power from the battery) the car was working fine ( alternator charging the battery, radio working, heather fan, digital odometer, flasher, wiper... ),

I was thinking about something, since I have 12 V on the pin 5 of IG1, may I put a jumper to see if the problem is coming from the IG1 relay ( I guess jumper between 5 and 3 ),

( while I will work on the car, I will tell you what happen with AM2, if the radiator fan start again),

Thank you again very much, see you
 
#25 · (Edited)
hello ( good morning), thank you for the question : the radiator fan is on the left side, about the alternator, actually when the car start as soon as I remove the positive of the battery the engine stop,
If a person disconnects the positive terminal of the battery while her or his vehicle is running, then for one thing, there will be no more power to the fuel pump and spark plugs. The vehicle should stop running.
I was thinking about something, since I have 12 V on the pin 5 of IG1, may I put a jumper to see if the problem is coming from the IG1 relay ( I guess jumper between 5 and 3 )
[nonsense posted by Elle_Rav4 deleted by Elle_Rav4]
 
#26 ·
hello, I tested quickly ( it is raining actually ) the IG1 relay again, and indeed there is 12 V even if the key is removed, so the ignition switch must be replaced right ( is there any test that can be done to check the ignition switch ),

because of the rain, I didn't get a chance to do the test with AM2 fuse, I will do it and tell you as soon as possible,

Thank you again a lot for your help
 
#27 · (Edited)
Jenki, I was mistaken about IG1 relay pin 5. See the attached pdf file. It shows the wiring connections for the IG1 relay. Pin 5 should show 12 volts at all times.

Key removed from the ignition:
Pins 1, 2 and 3 = no voltage
Pin 5 = 12 volts

Key in the "On" position, engine off:
Pins 1, 3 and 5 = 12 volts
Pin 2 = no voltage (ground)

See also page 44 of 1999Rav4WiringSearchable.pdf.
 

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#28 ·
While the 98 looks like the 99, the electrical system is different. If my scattered memory is correct, the 98 has a fusible link in the block bolted to the positive battery post that turns off part of the electrical system including recharging the battery when open. The 98 Rav4 will still start and run until the battery dies. The same open link on a 99 or 2000 model, will not start or run, but I don't recall which link, just the location.

Removing the battery cable to test for charging is an old school test that does work on the 4.1 Rav4, but Toyota does not recommend its use. But it did prove yours is not charging.

Having something turn on when you turn the key off, is a classic symptom of a faulty ground.
When the ECU is disconnected from the battery, it resets to the factory defaults and takes a fair amount of driving to relearn the engine settings.

Good news is that your FWD is AWD, please don't play with the "button by the radio" until you read up on the locking differential system. The switch actually controls 2 different systems and the 2 systems act differently, most expect it to just be on-off switch and then it doesn't act like they expect. It is a nice feature to have but most will never need it.
 
#29 ·
While the 98 looks like the 99, the electrical system is different. If my scattered memory is correct, the 98 has a fusible link in the block bolted to the positive battery post that turns off part of the electrical system including recharging the battery when open. The 98 Rav4 will still start and run until the battery dies. The same open link on a 99 or 2000 model, will not start or run, but I don't recall which link, just the location.

Removing the battery cable to test for charging is an old school test that does work on the 4.1 Rav4, but Toyota does not recommend its use. But it did prove yours is not charging.
The OP wrote, "I remove the positive of the battery... " Did the OP mean something that my addled brain misunderstood? I thought maybe the OP was way new to electrical concepts and was doing things that did not make a whole lot of sense.

I guess if the OP meant that he or she went to the trouble of removing the (100? amp) alternator fuse (fusible link) in the fusible link box, or disconnected(?) only the cable for same, and the Rav4 engine died immediately, then yes, something is amiss.
 
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