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Discussion Starter #1
My rav4 has randomly started acting up on me. so here's the deal 5th gear went out roughly 2 years ago. before that we replaced the timing belt, water pump, oil pump and all the tensioners, pulleys, and belts at 219000. i am currently at 240000. i just got it out of the shop( i had a wheel bearing replaced) they said the throw out bearing is going out.

here is the ****ty stuff. the CEL is always on. It reads a bank one running lean. the egr was replaced at roughly 225000, when its plugged in anytime you go over 35 mph after you start to slow down the RPMs drop to 200 and it starts to stutter. you can fiddle with the gas and keep it from stalling but as soon as you stop it starts to die again. also when you do get the RPMs to go up there is a belt squeal. now you can sit and keep the RPMs above 1000 and then take off and it will run fine until you slow down again then it will try to die again.

weird part. if you unplug the egr it would run perfectly fine. no stutters, no stalls, nothing. until recently. now if you unplug the egr you get about 5 miles away and it starts stuttering like it isnt getting gas. if you push the gas in trying to keep it alive, the pedal will go to the floor but it will just stutter and die. it wont restart right away either. it took 45 mins last time for me to get it to restart.

any knowledge or past experience with this would be apreciated. the shops are clueless and im not made of money.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Check this out:

There are three times in a engine’s operating cycle than an EGR valve is never supposed to operate: 1) at engine idle, 2) at wide open throttle or 3) when the engine is cold. In all three areas, it would have a negative effect on the way the engine runs, especially when the engine is idling.

With respect to our problem of rough running, an EGR valve can be a cause if it becomes fouled with carbon. This causes it to stick open, causing a rough idle or engine stall.

As explained earlier, in many cases the computer may set codes which can lead you to the EGR valve as the problem.

Confirming a stuck EGR valve can be as simple at giving it a light tap on the side of the valve, which may free it from its stuck-open position. In most cases, dirty EGR valves can be cleaned which usually resolves the problem. If cleaning is not an option, a replacement valve would be required. Again, this is a simple problem that’s inexpensive to fix – most people can replace an EGR valve themselves. So if your engine’s unsatisfactory performance is due to a dirty EGR valve, you’re going to get off cheap.

Ref: https://www.bellperformance.com/blog/rough-running-engine

The above link gives you all sorts of ideas about rough idle.

I would highly recommend cleaning the EGR and throttle bottle and thoroughly cleaning them. When you clean the throttle body you clean the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Get a can of throttle body cleaner and you can clean them on the engine. See -
Also see - http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/87623-complete-solution-egr-system-rav4-4-door-4wd-3s-fe.html for cleaning the EGR

To help prevent future problems replace all those hard brittle, or rotten vacuum lines with high temp silicone lines. Go ahead and replace all those belts and hoses or...

Good luck with her
 
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Good info.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you for the advice. I cleaned the throttle body and what i could reach so far of the EGR, it was caked in gunk. it is running better but now it is at the point instead of stalling its idling high. it usually idles around 800-1200 and its idling about 2200. i drove it around and let it idle a bit with no problems it just jumped rpms after awhile.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Glad I could help. High RPM is usually a vacuum leak, change those hoses. She may throw a code concerning lean condition because it is getting too much air. Check the EGR VSV it is a common problem area, unfortunately it is in a terrible location, move it to the fire wall.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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About that throw out bearing, you will have to drop the engine and tranny to do that, you will need a manual, a place to work, a wheeled engine dolly (to lower the engine onto), an engine hoist (to lower the engine to the dolly), a pair of jack stands, some common hand tools, torque wrenches in foot and inch pounds, and a big vocabulary of curse words. It is doable and you'll make yourself proud and save about a thousand dollars.

Things to do when you do this:
Get a clutch kit, it will include the clutch, throwout bearing, and pressure plate.
Rear engine seal
Tranny seals, three of them if you have a 4x4, 2 if you don't.
It cost about the same for rebuilt control arms and cv joints as it does to rebuild them yourself
Mounts, 1 engine and 3 tranny
Stabilizer bar end links and bushings. You will need to take the bushing and/or stabilizer bar to a parts store to get the bushings.
Exhaust manifold and intake manifold seals
Fuel injector o-rings and seals
Hoses to replace the bypass hoses under the exhaust manifold and the ones going to your throttle body

Tools, wire brush on a drill (use safety goggles) to do corrosion control on the subframe and engine compartment. Primer, and paint of your choice, high heat to handle the temps.

Expendables:
Engine cleaner
Brake cleaner
Throttle body cleaner

The money you save by doing it yourself will allow you to do all this.
 
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