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So, you bought a used Toyota and it only came with one key? All Toyotas with a regular ignition switch came from the factory with 3 keys--2 master keys with remote lock/unlock buttons, and a plain sub key called a valet key. How you can tell if a key is programmed as a master or a valet key:

Look at the Security light on the dash. With no key inserted, it will flash constantly.

Valet key--when first inserted into the ignition lock, the Security Light will stay on for 2 seconds and then stay off.

Master key--when inserted into the ignition lock, the Security Light will stop flashing and not illuminate at all.

The valet key will open the door and start the vehicle. It will NOT unlock the glove box and CANNOT be used to program duplicate keys.

All Toyotas with push button start come from the factory with 2 SmartKeys. These remote fobs each come with a removeable key blade that can be used to unlock the driver's door if the battery is dead. The blade can also be used to lock/unlock the glove box. If you are giving your car to a valet, first remove the key blade, lock the glove box, then give the remote fob to the valet without the key blade.

Recently a few of us have bought the MVCI cable and Techstream software from Ebay. Among other things, it allows you to program a lot of functions on the RAV4 that previously would have required an expensive visit to the dealership. Adding a new ignition key is one example. With Techstream anyone can program the remote lock/unlock functions as well as the ignition immobiliser chip.

A while back I ordered a nice flip key from an Ebay seller, and I really like it:



So much so, that I just ordered another one (for less than $12) to keep as a spare in case that design gets discontinued. It always bothered me that I had to cannibalize one of my original keys for the remote module and immobiliser chip. The empty shell was sadly sitting in my drawer with only the mechanical key blade left. So I searched on Ebay for a used key with the FCC ID of HYQ12BBY that I could cannibalize and put the guts back into my empty shell. I found one with the immobiliser chip, placed a bid and won it for a grand total of $9.49 including shipping. This one had a trunk button, so it probably came from a Camry, but that doesn't matter. As long as it has the HYQ12BBY code, it's compatible:



It arrived in the mail today, and in perfect shape. After prying open the donor key shell I removed the remote module and started digging out the immobiliser chip. This chip was glued in so well that I ended up destroying the front of the key shell, but I finally got it out. I transplanted the immobiliser chip and remote module into my original key and snapped it shut. So now I had my original mechanical key that fit into the door lock and ignition switch, but without programming, it would not unlock the doors
remotely nor start the engine.

At this point I fired up the Techstream software on my laptop and headed out to the RAV. Plugged the MVCI cable into the OBDII port and the other end into a USB port on the laptop. Inserted my master key and turned
the ignition to ON. Clicked on "Connect to Vehicle" and waited while it negotiated the connection. After a few moments, a window popped up showing that it had connected to a 2008 RAV4 with 2GR-FE engine and the only thing I had to choose was 2WD or 4WD. At this point I ran a "Health Check" so that the software could communicate with all the ECM's for the various systems. I figured I would start by programming the remote keyless door lock functions so from the "System Selection Menu" I chose "Main Body"



and then "Utility" and "Wireless Code Registration."



At this point the "Wireless Code Registration Wizard" popped up:




I followed the prompts, and the programming was complete. At this point I could click "Next" for another key or "Exit" if finished. Took all of 2 minutes.

Now I went on to program the immobiliser chip so the key would actually start the engine. From the "System Selection Menu" I chose "Immobiliser"



and shortly the "Immobiliser Live" tab appeared. From there I clicked
on "Utility" and "Key Registration":



Another wizard popped up and asked me to turn the ignition off, then back on and click next. Then it asked me to turn it back off, remove the master key, insert the new key (but don't turn it!) and click next. At this point the "Security" light started flashing, as a timer on the screen counted down from about 90 seconds while the ECU learned the new key code. Once the counter got down to zero, it said "Programming Complete" and showed a "Next" and "Exit" button as before. I then tested the key, started the engine, locked/unlocked the doors and it all worked perfectly!

So how many keys can you program into the RAV4? You can have 5 master keys (with remote locking) and 3 sub keys (valet keys) at the same time. You cannot do the immobiliser programming with a sub key, you must have
a master in the ignition.

The whole procedure is so simple, it took much longer to type this up than to program the key. If your RAV only came with one key, or you lost one, a new uncut remote key can be bought from Ebay for around $40. Get it cut by any locksmith and program it, and you're good to go. Or if you're cheap like me, you can get a flip key for $11.88 and a used key for $9.49, put the parts together for less than 22 bucks! Add the $30 Techstream software and cable and you're only out a little over 50 bucks which is probably what the dealer charges for a half hour of labor!
 
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Hi JuneBug,

Might I suggest that you make this thread a 'clicky' for future useage by members?

Thanks; and very informative,

Jerry Baumchen
 

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Hi JuneBug,

Might I suggest that you make this thread a 'clicky' for future useage by members?

Thanks; and very informative,

Jerry Baumchen
You mean "sticky" right?

Sent from my HTC ONE X
 

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I'm wondering if this will program a key fob for the Smart Key system.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm wondering if this will program a key fob for the Smart Key system.
I'm sure it will. Over on PriusChat, they say that a used Smart Key is married to the car it was initially programmed to, and that it can't be reused on a different car. I don't know if that applies to the RAV4 Limited.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Here's an interesting tidbit I found out about the immobiliser. When I got the used key from Ebay, I went ahead and programmed the buttons to lock/unlock the doors. Then I programmed the immobiliser chip into the system. At this point, the key would unlock the doors with the button, and when inserted into the ignition, the Security LED would stop flashing. Of course, since the metal key blade was cut for a different car, it wouldn't turn in the ignition. So, I took a plain metal key I had cut and inserted it into the ignition, and held the head of the Ebay key near the ignition switch. The Security LED stopped flashing and I could start the engine with the plain key. I threw the Ebay key on the passenger seat and the engine continued to run. Then I turned off the engine and immediately re-started it. It ran for about 4-5 seconds, then shut down and the Security LED began flashing! So you can start and run the engine with just momentary access to the immobiliser chip until you shut the engine off.
 

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I'm sure it will. Over on PriusChat, they say that a used Smart Key is married to the car it was initially programmed to, and that it can't be reused on a different car. I don't know if that applies to the RAV4 Limited.
Smart Key systems (PKES) are stupid. I have one. If the manufacturers do not get hip to their vulnerability to electronic attacks I'm betting that the manufacturers are in for a massive recall shock.

Here is a man hacking the start. He had already hacked the door open. This is all done using wireless.
 

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It sounds and looks too complicated and time-consuming for me. I have enough trouble with my desktop programs as it is without adding my RAV4 to the loop. Our local ACE Hardware store can make duplicate keys for $35, or so they say.
 

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It sounds and looks too complicated and time-consuming for me. I have enough trouble with my desktop programs as it is without adding my RAV4 to the loop. Our local ACE Hardware store can make duplicate keys for $35, or so they say.
Hmmm... my local Ace told me $80, wonder what the difference is?
 

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James,
What other functions can this program do?

I also have a Toyota Tacoma 2007. Would this program also work on the Tacoma?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)

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can the immobilizer be placed on the other (non key end)? I accidently stuck on the sticker that covers the screws to the key end.
 

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can the immobilizer be placed on the other (non key end)? I accidently stuck on the sticker that covers the screws to the key end.
Uh...no, the immobilizer chip needs to be as close to the ignition switch as possible. The antenna in the key switch has a very limited range. Carefully peel the sticker off and put the chip where it belongs.
 

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Uh...no, the immobilizer chip needs to be as close to the ignition switch as possible. The antenna in the key switch has a very limited range. Carefully peel the sticker off and put the chip where it belongs.
thanks.

got it programmed and setup. Went to home depot to cut the key but the guy screwed it up. If I insert the key on one side, it works. but if I put it in from the other side, it doesn't. I got the key stuck in ignition. But was able to pull it out after a few minutes of jiggling it around (all the meanwhile I was thinking in my head how much it would take to fix this).
 

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thanks.

got it programmed and setup. Went to home depot to cut the key but the guy screwed it up. If I insert the key on one side, it works. but if I put it in from the other side, it doesn't. I got the key stuck in ignition. But was able to pull it out after a few minutes of jiggling it around (all the meanwhile I was thinking in my head how much it would take to fix this).
Go to a locksmith, he will file it down nicely on both sides using a manual tool.

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, when it's something as important as MY CAR, I prefer to get the key made by a real locksmith who knows what he's doing, not some Home Depot flunkie, even if it costs me an extra buck.
 

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well I did it out of convenience more than anything. Now I'm looking for a spare keyblade.

btw, has anyone ever taken apart the blade piece? does it have the number 02 on it?


also thinking about playing with this one
 
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