[tankd0g]

Not to bring a post back from the dead but I'm dealing with replacing these cables right now and this write up is a big help. There are two adjustments, one is the amount of throw the shoes have until they contact the drum, done with the star wheel in the drum, and the other is the amount of slack in the cable done inside the console. Usually you will not have to adjust the slack in the cable at the console but if you do, you do that after you have adjusted the shoes. You should have no more than a few clicks in the handle before you start to engage the lever that moves the shoes inside the drum.

 

[tankd0g]

Taking apart your center console can be quite profitable, I found 3 hair pins, $1.15 in change, a ball point pen and a Mastercraft maxiumum flathead screw driver! Also found out why my shifter display was so dim, the light wasn't clipped in.

Here's the final step to this process if anyone has to go so far as to replace the cables. Disconnect your battery, unplug the airbag sensor, remove the 4 10mm head bolts and this is what you'll see, you may or may not have the bonus chap stick:

 

[Johann]

Last november I bought a used RAV4 2007 with 54,000 miles on. When I first used the hand brake, I noticed a loud click when the handle was near the top position. I found this strange and decided to open the center console and see what was going on beneath. I got a good help in RAV4 world forums.
I removed the airbag computer to see what would happen there because sound that came from there. The sound came from the parking brake cable connector (Equalizer) because it was assembled in a wrong way. I took a video before and after I had swap the cables on the Equalizer.
Here is a video:
https://vimeo.com/115522207

 

[tankd0g]

Last november I bought a used RAV4 2007 with 54,000 miles on. When I first used the hand brake, I noticed a loud click when the handle was near the top position. I found this strange and decided to open the center console and see what was going on beneath. I got a good help in RAV4 world forums.
I removed the airbag computer to see what would happen there because sound that came from there. The sound came from the parking brake cable connector (Equalizer) because it was assembled in a wrong way. I took a video before and after I had swap the cables on the Equalizer.
Here is a video:
https://vimeo.com/115522207

I don't know if I'd be more PO'd or less PO'd to have to take that all apart because someone screwed up something so basic

 

[pico]

Are the brake shoes adjusted now? The equalizer is tilted. Could one be very loose?

 

[Johann]

Pico after that work I did adjust the shoes. The handbrake is working fine now.

 

[macaid]

Hi RAVABOY,

Great post! You helped me figure out how to remove the center console panels and install a USB charger.

Thanks!

 

[IEDesign]

I'd like to figure out the parking brake also. I've tried twice now.

1st attempt I set the parking brake handle to about halfway up and then adjusted each rear drum shoe until it was somewhat tight. I figured the second half of the parking brake lever travel would do the rest.

Parked on a hill and got not a lot in return for my hard work. But it was better (usually just slowly slides until transmission grabs).

2nd attempt earlier this week while working on my suspension. This time I left the parking brake lever all the way down AND I pulled off the rear calipers to pull the rotors off completely. Sanded the rotors to remove any glazing (which was evident just by looking at them). Reinstalled the rotors and calipers and tightened drum until it was grabbing then backed off one or two clicks.

Parked in my usual spot on the steep street next to our home and this time handle nearly goes to the top but it is grabbing firmly. Still wants to creep a little. :doh:

Now what?

 

[tankd0g]

I'd like to figure out the parking brake also. I've tried twice now.

1st attempt I set the parking brake handle to about halfway up and then adjusted each rear drum shoe until it was somewhat tight. I figured the second half of the parking brake lever travel would do the rest.

Parked on a hill and got not a lot in return for my hard work. But it was better (usually just slowly slides until transmission grabs).

2nd attempt earlier this week while working on my suspension. This time I left the parking brake lever all the way down AND I pulled off the rear calipers to pull the rotors off completely. Sanded the rotors to remove any glazing (which was evident just by looking at them). Reinstalled the rotors and calipers and tightened drum until it was grabbing then backed off one or two clicks.

Parked in my usual spot on the steep street next to our home and this time handle nearly goes to the top but it is grabbing firmly. Still wants to creep a little. :doh:

Now what?

You still have to do the final step of tightening the cable at the handle to take up the slack you produce by adjusting the shoes closer to the drum.

 

[IEDesign]

You still have to do the final step of tightening the cable at the handle to take up the slack you produce by adjusting the shoes closer to the drum.

Ugh. Was really hoping I wasn't going to have to dig around with that..

Maybe while I've got the center console pulled apart I'll do the heated seat button swap I've been wanting to do. Move that control tab to the spot occupied by the audio aux in tab in the center console. Could swap places pretty easily and finally have a heated seat option that's easy to use.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

An update on this thread. I didn't look thru all 70 posts to see if my easier way to adjust the cable at the handbrake was covered but I just did mine w/o removing the console. Here's how: I started by removing the mirror switch & cubbie like he did in these two pics except that I pried it from the side with a putty knife:

I disconnected the switch and set it aside. That gives you access to the two 10mm adjustment nuts but w/o an easy way to get wrenches on them. To gain that access I removed the mat but not any bolts

Then I removed the black panel with the 12V outlet and AUX input under his left hand by prying it up at the bottom and reaching down thru the top hole releasing the clips and pushing it backward. With it out of the way reaching in with wrenches was easy. Doesn't give a lot of rotation on them such as he has but IMO certainly easier than removing the whole console.

 

[kessac]

Thanks for the post guys been wondering how to go about ajusting my hand brake
i think i will go with removing the rear wheels seem the easy way. thanks for the info
if i need to move the centre console, all tips come in handy

 

[Dr. Dyno]

The only issue with removing the brake drums is you'll have to reinstall them possibly many times to check the adjustment. Adjusting the nuts at the brake lever handle makes it quicker and less of a dirty job since you just pull on the lever to test the adjustment.

 

[jbwood5]

Just did the parking brake adjustment following the factory service manual on my 2009. Just a bit more work than I anticipated because the FSM has you taking the console apart, loosening the cable locknut and the cable adjustment nut. Then you jack up the rear, support it, remove both wheels, remove rubber access plugs, turn rotors so you can see star wheel, and with screwdriver tighten both up until brakes are locked. Then back off each side about 6 to 8 notches and insure wheels turn freely. Then you tighten nut on cable tensioner in the console so that 8 clicks of the handbrake lever require about 40 pounds of pull. When that adjustment is correct, put on locknut.

Here is how it ended up after doing this. 1 click pull on brake handle and wheels turn freely with a barely detectable drag. 2 clicks and drag is noticeable. 3 clicks and it takes a little effort to rotate tires by hand. 4 clicks and I need a tire tool on the lugnut to make tire move. 5 clicks and tires are locked even using 90 ft- pounds on lugnuts. Anymore clicks and vehicle is unlikely to move on steep incline in neutral.

The equalizer seems to be doing its job since all the testing described showed about equal drag on both wheels.

Disassembling the console was done with no tools. Getting your fingers to grip at the seams and pulling firmly gets it apart. Everything is held by clips. You need a flashlight to see the star wheel.

Not a difficult job but time consuming. Spent more time cleaning up inside the console, sadly only found 10 cents in change, but did find an old Lowes gift card with $10 balance on it. I also fixed that rubber window (flap) that covers the ratchet gear in the console. It was just pushed down inside and stuck.

 

[Lucas123]

I just replaced both parking brake cables; the angled fitting going into the backing plate was broken on both sides, both cables were seized. This info was priceless; studied up on how to dissemble the console, then went out and "had at her".
Thanks.

 

[bobbyv]

thanks for the reply, but i got accustomed to using my e-brake when i park,
i usually put it on neutral then the parking brake then shift up to Park.
i dont know but i like the extra security in case i parked on an inclined road or drive way. bcoz sometimes i noticed that when i just put the gear selector on park, when parking on an inclined road, but when i get back to the car, i noticed it is hard move the gear selector to drive,

 

[bobbyv]

I have been using my E brake this way since day one. Like you said, it's just an extra measure of safety plus protection for the tranny, 45000 miles and still works just fine. Seat belts and E brake, All the time.