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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I'm wrapping up a lot of projects, and here is another sub project almost complete. I upgraded the air box and air intake into something pretty awesome I think.

1) Removed the old airbox and associated junk
2) Mounted the Evap VSV from old airbox to the left fender well just below and to the left of the main junction box - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaUVJRLVhwWjR6SUU
3) Moved the electrical box over to allow the snorkel hose to go through the fender.
4) Installed a Spectre Performance 9831 4" Inline Air Box with 6.4" Body - Amazon.com
5) (57Mm-102MM) 2.25"-4" 90 Degree Silicone Coupler Reducer Turbo Intake Black/Red - ebay.com This goes between the throttle body and the new airbox
6) Drilled a hole on the underside of the 2.25"-4" 90 Degree Coupler Reducer to install the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
7) (76MM-102MM) 3"-4" 90 Degree Silicone Coupler Reducer Turbo Intake Black/Red - ebay.com This goes between the the new airbox and the snorkel hose
8) Trimmed about 3/4" off both 90 Degree Coupler Reducers (on the 4" side) to make room for the radiator overflow resevoir.
9) Shortened the mount for the radiator overflow reservoir.
10) Drilled a new hole in the cross brace for the radiator overflow reservoir and bolted it back on, I added a large zip tie around the cross brace and under the overflow reservoir to help support it.
11) Cut a hole through about 3.5 inches in diameter and widened the hole that the wire harness comes through on the left front forward section of the engine bay fender well. Lined the hole with split loom to prevent chaffing.
12) Installing a Snorkel Kit Air Intake for Toyota Landcruiser Prado 90 Series 1998 4x4 1KZ - ebay.com

I went with a four inch intake in case I get around to upgrading the engine latter, plus it looks pretty kool. If it is allowing too much air through and causing problems, I will add a restrictor plate later to cut the air volume down.

Engine bay photo - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0N4qdhM8CoaMWh6aEJzNkp5M2M/view
 

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Looks really nice!

In step 10, zip ties tend to get weak and brittle in dry warm air, any chance of getting a large hose clamp to replace it? Then it could be support you can just forget about.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks really nice!

In step 10, zip ties tend to get weak and brittle in dry warm air, any chance of getting a large hose clamp to replace it? Then it could be support you can just forget about.
Sounds like a plan, I appreciate the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I didn't mention:

I pulled the intake manifold, cleaned it inside and out, and painted the exterior surfaces.

Pulled the throttle body and cleaned it inside and out, and painted the exterior surfaces.

Pulled the EGR bits apart and cleaned them inside and out.

Moved the EGR VSV to the firewall
- close up view - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaX3RBOTRMYWNnQzg
- under hood view - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaRFRYRnZJVVhfYm8

Replaced the coolant lines going to the throttle body, well actually I replaced every hose on the RAV4.

Replaced all the vacuum lines.

Replaced all the fuel lines from the tank to the engine, including everything running around the evap/charcoal canister. I also changed the fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think you'll need a heated throttle body in Florida. I'd disconnect mine if it were easier to get to.
Is that what the coolant lines are for? The only problem I have is that I may be working in another month up north so I have to keep the vehicle ready to travel anywhere in the country.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
eodgator, do Derek Ground installation here.
Thanks for the info. I did add a ground wire to the alternator bracket and installed a 2 gauge battery to chassis ground replacing the OE ground (2ga because I had some laying around from a boat project). I also wire brushed between all the add-ons, engine hooks, brackets, frame, etc to assure grounds with everything. After I reassembled those items sealed and painted to seal the connections. The grounding project will have to wait for now.

I'm about to get her back on the road, waiting for a fitting for the transaxle cooler and then I can fill the tranny and she'll be up and running.

This weekend, I'm installing a camo wrap to the whole RAV, painting trim pieces and reassembling. I also found a pair of front mud flaps to add to her.

The last mod for now will be stripping the interior and installing sound deadening material and my xm-radio shark fin antenna while I have the headliner down.

The next mod on the books after the camo and sound deadening is to install an electric push-button emergency brake so that I can either add 2 cup holders where the e-brake sits now or to put a new console in with 2 cup holders behind the shifter.
 

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Is that what the coolant lines are for? The only problem I have is that I may be working in another month up north so I have to keep the vehicle ready to travel anywhere in the country.
It's only for really cold climates.

The original problem was carbs freezing the butterfly at steady part throttle cruise, in winter. The cold air and petrol hitting the butterfly caused it to freeze stuck. EFI cars don't squirt petrol on the butterfly though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's only for really cold climates.

The original problem was carbs freezing the butterfly at steady part throttle cruise, in winter. The cold air and petrol hitting the butterfly caused it to freeze stuck. EFI cars don't squirt petrol on the butterfly though.
Hmm, I'll take that under advisement, I'd rather have colder air going into the intake than to preheat it anyway. I think I may look into a bypass valve, best of both worlds, off when I don't need it and on if I get in a situation where I do.

Did you loop the hoses to bypass the throttle body or cap them?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
eodgator, do Derek Ground installation here.

Do it exactly as he did it, you'll feel a hell of a difference. I once did it with thinner wires, it worked, but one day I just pulled everything out and did it with 4 gauge power/ground wires. I already had the Razini and then it really gave it some torque.
I'm installing 2 gauge wire positive wires to replace the alternator to battery and battery to fuse box leads because of upgrading my alternator to 145 amps. I'm also doing the mod you suggested but with 2 gauge wiring again because of the alternator upgrade. I'm also adding a jumper wire from the hook behind the alternator to the alternator bracket to assure the alternator is getting a good ground. See http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/247418-now-alternator-kaput.html for updates on this as I complete them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
eodgator, do Derek Ground installation here.

Do it exactly as he did it, you'll feel a hell of a difference. I once did it with thinner wires, it worked, but one day I just pulled everything out and did it with 4 gauge power/ground wires. I already had the Razini and then it really gave it some torque.
I did the upgrade with some changes partly because I upgraded to a 145 amp alternator
- 2 gauge wire rather than 4 gauge, again because of the 145 amp alternator
- Added a ground to the alternator bracket
- Deleted the passenger side hook to inner fender because I was already running a ground from the battery ground point on the inner fender to the passenger side hook
- Moved the additional grounds from the battery terminal to the battery ground point on the inner fender, this frees up the battery terminal from a large bundle of wires going to it.
- Upgraded the battery ground cable to 2 gauge
- Upgraded alternator cable to 2 gauge
- Upgraded battery positive cables to 2 gauge
 

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Looks really nice!

In step 10, zip ties tend to get weak and brittle in dry warm air, any chance of getting a large hose clamp to replace it? Then it could be support you can just forget about.
You can get hi temp cable ties that work well if, for whatever reason, you don't want clamps. I use them at work quite often and they are great. (they are usually blue in colour).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One last thing, all electrical connections, including grounds are coated with dialelectric grease.
 

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I did the upgrade with some changes partly because I upgraded to a 145 amp alternator
- 2 gauge wire rather than 4 gauge, again because of the 145 amp alternator
- Added a ground to the alternator bracket
- Deleted the passenger side hook to inner fender because I was already running a ground from the battery ground point on the inner fender to the passenger side hook
- Moved the additional grounds from the battery terminal to the battery ground point on the inner fender, this frees up the battery terminal from a large bundle of wires going to it.
- Upgraded the battery ground cable to 2 gauge
- Upgraded alternator cable to 2 gauge
- Upgraded battery positive cables to 2 gauge
Did you notice anything feel-wise with the car? Electric lighting brighter than before? Anything? I know different cars it can affect differently. Just curious!

Nice setup btw!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I run all LEDS everywhere so I didn't see any difference in lighting brightness. Part of my problem is that I did too many upgrades too close together so I cannot attribute any one thing to any particular mod. Things I noticed overall:
Minor radio background hum is gone.
Seems more responsive
Overall about a 8% increase in fuel mileage, but I recently did a full tuneup, replaced all my vacuum lines, cleaned throttle body, LED swap (less drain on battery, less alternator pull), replaced all fuel lines (rubber and hard lines), changed all fluids (differential, transaxle, engine, coolant, even brake), and of course the intake upgrades, upgraded alternator, upgraded battery full coolant system rebuild with high performance cooling fans.
Right now she is better than new I think. The only thing left on the horizon is a BEAMS Red Top 3SGE or all out and do the 3SGTE.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was looking over your garage and I saw that you don't have a header. If you haven't already, install one with 2.25" or 2.5" pipe. You'll feel the difference.
I recently picked up an older model 40' diesel pusher motor home and that is sucking up all of my available funds, so I'm stopping where I'm at with my RAV4 for now.
 

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I was looking over your garage and I saw that you don't have a header. If you haven't already, install one with 2.25" or 2.5" pipe. You'll feel the difference.
Good to see you still around Mensajero after all these years. :D Definitely would've followed in your footsteps if I had an earlier model RAV4.
 
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