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Thanks, all for all the hard work.

On my 2010 I4, I saw a black plastic box behind the battery [towards the firewall] secured by 2 white-metal clips. The clips unsnap easily; the top of the box, with various attached wires, etc., lifts just enough to remove the old filter element, which is sitting on top of the lower, empty part of the box [plenum?]. There's just enough clearance to lift out the old element and insert the new. Carefully reseat the box top, resnap the clips, and you're good to go.

You'd think the owner's manual would show this the way it shows the cabin filter replacement procedure, but it doesn't.
 

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Got my local Toyota place to match the online warehouse's price on the resistor assembly. Yay!! I wish the previous owner had just gotten it fixed under warranty, but, oh well! Not to spendy of a fix to get rid of that whine. I'll let y'all know how it works, but I reckon it should do the trick from all the helpful stuff I've read here.

Sure appreciate you all!!! :D
 

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Awesome review and list.....but I can't get the pic? Is it still active?

Edit: This has been sorted by DavidL.
RTexasF
 

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Item 1O

some more detail on item "1O Vacuum switching valve".

That is not just a valve, it's an electrically controller valve which adds a calibrated amount of extra air to the intake in order to raise the idle speed for air conditioner use. It includes a small miniature air-cleaner on top. I had one fail on a 1988 Camry...Toyota doesn't change things unless they need to. If you disconnect the electrical connector, then at idle you will notice that with the A/C on the idle speed drops with the added load, and the A/C output is poor. Of course it has no effect at cruising speed.
 
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russella
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