On older cars it can ruin the transmission. It often stirs up too much sediment and can clog passages or flush out sediments that are holding the transmission together .Out of curiosity, why never machine flush?
The nuts are all tacked. Just unbolt that support member.A couple of months ago I bought a used 2008 Rav4 base, 2.4. 4 wheel drive. Last weekend I changed the rear diff. oil, and it was quite nasty. Re-filled with Lucas 80w-90. ( non synthetic) Gained 1.3 mpg! Planned on doing three drain and fills on the tranny, and a filter change on the third drain, but ran into a problem. There are 3 bolts on the drivers side of the pan that are hidden under a section of frame rail. Only about 1/2" clearance..not even enough room to get the bolts out. Crap. This section of front/back frame rail is about a foot long and is held on by 4 bolts--2 front and 2 rear. The rear bolts I can easily remove and replace. The front bolts have the nuts hidden inside the square tubing section of left to right cross member. I could not tell if the nuts were in fact tacked to the tubing, so I didn't chance taking it off. Nobody has mentioned this in any of the forums I have read, and the Haynes manual I bought didn't either. I bought a new filter from the dealer and would like to replace mine as the vehicle has 107,xxx miles on it. Help?
My experience with flushing too....On older cars it can ruin the transmission. It often stirs up too much sediment and can clog passages or flush out sediments that are holding the transmission together .
I have know of several issues of transmission died after a flush. Granted often they are old dying transmissions but still. Co-worker's Volvo's tranny was slipping. Mechanic recommended a machine flush. Transmission completely died afterwards. I have read or heard of this happening enough times that I simply do not ever consider machine flushing. Also since I DIY on almost all my maintenance, and I don't own a tranny flushing machine...
The nuts are all tacked. Just unbolt that support member.
If you are dropping the pan use some blue loctite so the bolts don't loosen. Also be careful not to over tighten those pan bolts since they are easy to break if you use a ratchet. I used a nut driver so I can't over tighten them. I did have to redo the bolts later on since they were not on as tight. The gasket would also be easier to put on if you flatten them out ahead of time with some books. The filter would not go up in position until you start tightening the bolt because of the resistance of the rubber o ring.Thank you myravis_silver and MrPullDown. When our weather clears, and I've got a few more miles with this new fluid, I will do another drain and fill and drop the member so I can get to those pesky hidden pan bolts. Your answers are what I figured, but you know how Murphy can be...it was getting late and the sun was setting, so I just decided not to chance it. Thanks again.
You should be ok with the drain and fill. Others have done this and I have not heard anything bad mixing different fluids. The result is a semi-synthetic blend.I have a question about fluid as well. I purchased new synthetic fluid for a drain and fill, but I realized the current fluid is the OEM conventional ATF. Can you mix conventional with synthetic? Or will I have to do a complete return line drain and fill if I want to use the synthetic ATF?
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I jsut did the same in my RAV at 65K. Was very impressed with the results. Not only did ONE drain and fill make the ATF from the dip stick look red again, it got rid of the "cold engine put in drive CLUNK". It also greatly reduced the "accelerate from 5mph confused transmission CLUNK", though I think this one is contributed by the rear diff 4wd clutch.I have a question about fluid as well. I purchased new synthetic fluid for a drain and fill, but I realized the current fluid is the OEM conventional ATF. Can you mix conventional with synthetic? Or will I have to do a complete return line drain and fill if I want to use the synthetic ATF?
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As a precaution every and all toyota auto transmissions especially more recent models running on WS fluid should have basic oil and filter changes every 30 thousand miles and even non mechanics can learn to monitor the color of the fluid with some experience. Just google " That ( model # )toyota transmission problems" and follow down links especially those put out by transmission repair associations .You may think that some shops push unnecessary jobs but in this case use them as guides for averages and believe me most will report the same findings. Ask around to find an average price for oil change. Try and get reviews or ratings from others and the net. Also something i forgot to mention is that the valve body ( control module) tends to wear out faster by themselves in the last 10 years and cause problems which i will explain in the easiest terms : The directional or shift control valve has hard steel moving parts that slide back and forth in a softer aluminum housing. The steel is much harder and wears out the passages with time causing shift delays from internal leakage and operating pressure loss, and in extreme cases transmission stoppage. This is worse on older V6 equipped Camrys Solaras or Lexus. A professionnaly rebuilt or machined valve body is very expensive by itself, around 700$ without labor. Check Ebay for fun. Some reliable vendors on Ebay will sell a good tested and verified valve body for much less sometimes, check their satisfaction rating. In a many cases depending on the year a slow or problematic shifting Toyota transmission can be fixed by rebuilding the valve body or changing it with a decent one with proper clearances, use that info so you dont get screwed by an unscrupulous shop, they may be stunned that you know about this. Changing it is a job best left to mechanics or better yet good trans repair shops. Do not attempt if unsure. Synthetic transmission oil practically eliminates any wear everywhere during the life of the fluid so for the liitle price difference i will always recommend that. Hope this helps. Jeff