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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Having made a big mistake a few years ago gotten rid of my 97 2dr; I've acquired another.

My previous was automatic, This one is manual, & has dual moonroofs, and 4wd.

Questions if you will please.

Not having driven a rav4 in Long time & neither a 5 spd; what should the rpm be around at say 60mph? Mine seems high??? At around 2900rpm, dunno maybe this is normal, for the little motor. At this moment have a 5.7l tahoe which runs at 1500rpm 58mph lol.

I'm going to be getting to work on this little guy pronto.
Going to be ordering the OME full kit, I know this has been discussed ad nauseum, but I'm looking into getting Monroe sensatrac struts; is this a good combination?

Also, not sure if i'm going to stick with same rims, but if I do & with OME LIFT, are General Grabbers AT 2 tires, size 245/70R16 a good choice? Any feedback on the tires specifically. Mainly I'm going for the look & price, probably will not do any 4wheeling to speak of.


Unbeknownst to me, some one previously put a wood grain double sided dash applique.
The crap is stuck on; any quickie removal ideas?





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Congrats on getting back into it! We recently got virtually identical Rav4 to yours after 14 years without one!


The RPM sounds right. These little 4 banger make very little torque and need to rev that high.
 

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Obviously, bigger tires will drop the RPMs a bit.

The faux woodgrain might be removable with a heatgun to soften the glue and isopropyl alcohol to remove the glue. Just be really careful about not heating any spot too much. Remember alcohol is highly flammable. As always, you take your own risk doing anything with a heatgun and/or chemicals in your car. Test in a hidden spot first. Have an extinguisher near and maintain plenty of ventilation.
 

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I checked mine, and at 60mph it is also at 2900 rpm. At 65mph it's at 3200 rpm.

Congrats on getting another 2 door model again. :smile
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys.
I might have to rebuild the motor, there are oil leaks in couple of places, nothing major, but still. Also don't remember how noisy the motor was on mine, but this one definitely makes allot of racket. I'm thinking if I pull the motor, will definitely try and insulate the firewall with soundproofing lol.

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AWESOME!! Welcome back. I always love it when people say that they "came back" to first generation. I am on first generation after actually buying a second generation brand new in 2001 and having it for many years.

High RPMs are normal. In order to produce higher torque for climbing as it is supposed to be a rugged 4x4 (with a small engine), it has to be designed that way.

Think of old Land Cruisers (if you ever had them) that used to be 3 speed and how they used to REV really high with smaller engines that we have today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update :
Installed OME LIFT KIT today. My rims are crap & I need new tires. Ugh, not to keen on spending a $1k for tires and rims. I'm looking into getting general grabbers 235 70 16s, hoping these fit.
Body work still to be finished, then primed, then plasti dip.
My motor is shot :/ leaking oil like a sieve, running pretty good though. Tranny is also pretty rough.
Looking at rebuilt motor for around $2200-2400. Tranny rebuild for around $1000.
Figuring this little truck will then be basically new & should go for years, if I decided to keep it that long.
Looking at this whole project, figuring if I get into it for $7k - 8k total; I wouldn't be able to buy another truck as Kool for the same price with out a lot mileage and it's own potential problems down the road.

 

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Yeah! Welcome back! Is the engine burning oil or just leaking? The leaks can be from easily-replaced gaskets, such as the valve cover. Make sure the valve cover hold-down nuts are torqued. Mine leaks as well and retorquing those nuts helped as two of the 4 were only finger-tight....Grrrr.... I need to replace the gasket when the weather improves....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could be both, but definitely leaking from multiple sources; definitely valve cover, most likely head as well, & maybe elsewhere :/

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Could someone tell me what part in looking for? When car is in park for example and you turn wheel left or right, you can hear a clunk. My mechanic days it's not ball joints or other suspension. He says the part is above the axle & part of steering??? .

 

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Get under and have someone wiggle the steering wheel. See if the rack body is moving at all. Urethane bushes are available for them. Can be replaced without removing rack from car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
New shoes for the rav4, painted the rims, finished restoring the plastic cladding. Full tune up & ran seafoam through throttle body. Running so much nicer, looking better also
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got really lucky yesterday, thought I was going to be needing a steering shaft, by luck my mechanic was moving the wheel while car was lifted & noticed a big bolt was loose, tightened & voila no more clunking. Suspension feel & steering is now awesome with lift, etc.
Did rear drums, shoes, brake cylinders, steel brake lines, new fluid, nice difference. Also tinted windows, loving that.

 

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Well, that's looking cuter by the day! The new shoes put some heft into it's looks! Nice job!
 

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Got really lucky yesterday, thought I was going to be needing a steering shaft, by luck my mechanic was moving the wheel while car was lifted & noticed a big bolt was loose, tightened & voila no more clunking. Suspension feel & steering is now awesome with lift, etc.
Did rear drums, shoes, brake cylinders, steel brake lines, new fluid, nice difference. Also tinted windows, loving that.

The first generation RAV4 aint expensive. If properly maintained, it turns heads.
I feel sorry for people who have to spend 50k or 60k and still don't get the attention they think they will get.. :D
 
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