Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 2005 Toyota RAV4. Supposed to get a combined city/highway mileage of 23 mpg. But I'm getting 13.5 mpg. No jack rabbit starts. Very slow driving. Tires are inflated properly. Shell gas. Why so low?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,043 Posts
It would be hard to know but gas mileage vary on driving habits and the the type of driving you do. Another thing is how well you maintain your vehicle. Since you just bought this vehicle you would need to find any efficiency you can make that is robbing gas mileage. Some things to check are spark plugs, air filters, dirty MAF sensor, dirty throttle body, sticking caliper slide pins, bad O2 sensor, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
The first month I bought my 2005 RAV I took it to Toyota with a list of squawks to have checked or replaced. These included things like; PCV, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, fuel filter and some lights/switches in the cabin. I replaced oil the oils and filters myself. Replaced the wheels/tires and had the alignment corrected upon install.
I see a regular 22mpg city.

With older vehicles I think there's a lot of things that can become sub par after time. I can't say with confidence any one thing I did was a the right choice, but after buying old used cars for decades I've learned over time to immediately reduce potential problems to their lowest common denominator: replace the easy stuff right away, even if it's not broke yet.

For instance, replacing my coolant I caught a t-fitting that was crumbing apart. A fellow member recently overheated his RAV because this very part shat the bed on him while driving.

I believe you can see 23mpg again without a significant investment of cash. Your RAV probably just needs some TLC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
engine oil makes a difference. If you can run something like mobil1 0/40 you can get 5~10% improvement (5% in my case )
if you live in high humidity, wet or cold area, the caliper piston can stop moving freely resulting on brake drag. I had this problem on the front and solving it improved my fuel consumption by 10~15%
the engine is extremely thirsty when cold so drive easy & smooth till it is all at working temperatures.
Energy saving tyres can improve by 1~2% or more if you are currently on aggressive off road tyres

Beyond this you need to look at mechanical, electrical parts as others have suggested
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
is that T fitting the one that connects to the oil cooler? I noticed mine has a little crusty pink blob on it... might have to look at replacing it....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
It was a fitting I believe that the heater core tied into. It was associated with the cooling system, not the transmission. It's supposed to be white, and mine, among others, appear brown in color after many years of age and heat.

13.5 mpg is absolutely terrible for this vehicle, far worse I believe than can solely be attributed to oils. The engine management software is getting erroneous data. MAF to O2 sensors, somethings wonky.

OH! Something I just remembered from an old 2000 VW Jetta I had . . . it had a fuel leak. Problem was it leaked oil too, and I fought for months and months trying to figure out why I was getting such bad mileage, not realizing the puddles of oil were at least partially fuel too.

Maybe have someone else with a similar model RAV test drive it? Does it run good? I've also known cars to grenade a catalytic converter, plugging up the exhaust flow, causing terrible mileage. This is also associated with poorer performance though, and usually easy to determine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Well, i'll do some data logging on the O2 sensor data and see if they're sluggish, i'm not getting 13mpg...

I just did some calculation, i'm doing about 10L/100km which works out to 23-24mpg mostly city. I guess i'm not having any issues... i thought it was a bit thirstier than my old 03 camry w/2az but turns out, its not.

It's also been -20c to -30c here overnight and the milage hasn't moved much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Well, i'll do some data logging on the O2 sensor data and see if they're sluggish, i'm not getting 13mpg...

I just did some calculation, i'm doing about 10L/100km which works out to 23-24mpg mostly city.
I was referring to the OP, sneed.

Yours on the other hand seems to be running terrific judging by 23.5 mpg city! That's wonderful, I need to be asking you for helpful hints ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
I was referring to the OP, sneed.

Yours on the other hand seems to be running terrific judging by 23.5 mpg city! That's wonderful, I need to be asking you for helpful hints ;)
well i just bought it this year with 160k kms on it, its at 175k, its on full synthetic, brand new winter and summer tires, and all the tires are at the same pressure.

New air filter, fresh trans fluid and PS fluid, thats it.

I did do the front brakes though, and i had noticed the bottom pins were really tough to move, i replaced the bushings on the lower pins with updated ones that have slits running length wise VS width, so it can still easily move the grease around and not set up a vacuum and never move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
There has been alot of good advice on what to check. Something I will add is to do a leakdown test. These Rav4's can sometimes have excessive piston ring wear. The leakdown test will also tell you if you need work done on the valve as well and give you an idea of the overall condition of the engine. Other than that, check the bearings in your alternator and pulleys. A bad bearing typically makes a noticeable sound, but I've heard of cases where the alternator clutch was bad, causing poor gas mileage and it wasn't loud enough to be obvious.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top