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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had my 2015 Rav 4 LE battery tested today and I'm posting the results to get feedback from those that know more than I do about vehicles.

If you look at the print out, you see that the battery is rated as 640CCA..The battery in my Rav however has printed on it 490CCA.. If 490CCA had been used instead of 640CCA, would this have made a difference in the test results and the health of the battery? Thanks for the feedback.

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If your car starts ok, I would ignore the replacement recommendation. I replaced the wife's RAV4 battery about a year ago. It failed to start once. I used a jump starter (I would recommend that for everyone) to start it and went to Wally World for a replacement. As it happened, WW was out of the proper battery and I had to go to a local parts store (and paid a higher price).
 

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Had my 2015 Rav 4 LE battery tested today and I'm posting the results to get feed back from those that know more than I do about vehicles.

If you look at the print out, you see that the battery is rated as 640CCA..The battery in my Rav however has printed on it 490CCA.. If 490CCA had been used instead of 640CCA, would this have made a difference in the test results and the health of the battery? Thanks for the feed back.

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How old is the battery? Obviously they decline in power as they age. 490 CCA should start your vehicle except perhaps in cold climate winter weather, but it is deteriorating regarding potential performance. If you had a 490 CCA battery (don't know if there is such a product) and if the build quality were the same as with your 640 CCA battery, generally speaking the 490 CCA battery would fail first (as in being unable to start your vehicle). using the same time frame. Replaced the OEM battery in our RAV4 with one of the same CCA capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The battery is the original battery that came with my 2015 Rav, so it's 7 years old but still working well. I'm not getting any signs that it's beginning to get weaker.

The vehicle was made in Japan and the battery has printed across the bottom the following.,

29HR 65Ah CCA490A D23(JIS)
 

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To answer your specific question: Yes, had they entered 490 instead of 640 the battery would've shown 78% Health (382/490) instead of 59% (382/640).
 
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Thank you Dr Dyno, appreciate your knowledge.
A little more info: I have the same type battery tester. You enter the CCA which is supposed to be what's listed on the battery. In this case someone got lazy and likely just left the number in from the previous test. Or maybe they were trying to sell you a battery.

But as a case in point the Health % isn't always of practical value. Last NewYear's Eve day (12/31/2021) I helped a friend of the family buy a very nice 2011 Odyssey from a private seller. While running an extensive all-systems test with my Autel scanner the battery went dead. The seller said, "You may need a new battery." Normally that might've ended the buy but the van was in such good condition, especially for the price, that I jumped it with my Accord and we bought it and she drove it home.

The van sat at her house for a few days since she had to get it registered. Battery went dead again. I put a charger on it and it started. The same thing happened a few days later even tho it tested good the several times I tested it. Told a friend the story. He said, "It's winter, (in Connecticut) buy a new battery." We went to Walmart and did so but I kept the old battery.

On 1/22/2022 it tested 604/600 CCA or 100% Health. Today after sitting on my garage floor for six months it read 573/600 = 92% health so I'll keep it for some future use but the question remains why was it not reliable in the Odyssey. The only possibility is the van is the highest trim, the Touring Elite model, so the parasitic battery drain may have been too much for the several year old battery.

So my advice is the same as the others, once it fails once replace it.

Here's my experience with our 2006 RAV4: Instant battery death, experienced & explained
 

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Missing the point here.
I have never had a battery tested before. BUt I do keep an eye on the resting voltage, often right before I start the car. Never had a battery (that has been already installed in the car and used for a few years) give me issues when the voltage reads 12.5v. That is considered pretty fresh. When they start reading 12.2 I start to be concerned. One of my cars battery is near death at 12.0, but it still starts up fine.
 

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A little more info: I have the same type battery tester. You enter the CCA which is supposed to be what's listed on the battery. In this case someone got lazy and likely just left the number in from the previous test. Or maybe they were trying to sell you a battery.

But as a case in point the Health % isn't always of practical value. Last NewYear's Eve day (12/31/2021) I helped a friend of the family buy a very nice 2011 Odyssey from a private seller. While running an extensive all-systems test with my Autel scanner the battery went dead. The seller said, "You may need a new battery." Normally that might've ended the buy but the van was in such good condition, especially for the price, that I jumped it with my Accord and we bought it and she drove it home.

The van sat at her house for a few days since she had to get it registered. Battery went dead again. I put a charger on it and it started. The same thing happened a few days later even tho it tested good the several times I tested it. Told a friend the story. He said, "It's winter, (in Connecticut) buy a new battery." We went to Walmart and did so but I kept the old battery.

On 1/22/2022 it tested 604/600 CCA or 100% Health. Today after sitting on my garage floor for six months it read 573/600 = 92% health so I'll keep it for some future use but the question remains why was it not reliable in the Odyssey. The only possibility is the van is the highest trim, the Touring Elite model, so the parasitic battery drain may have been too much for the several year old battery.

So my advice is the same as the others, once it fails once replace it.

Here's my experience with our 2006 RAV4: Instant battery death, experienced & explained
i use the solar brand 1002 battery charger on all of the cars and trucks here as well as on generators and heavy equipment.
and make custom cords out the front grill so they can be plugged in every night.

yea the darn exit switches built in to the door handle are a known issue on any car or truck.
if it does not sense you left the car or truck the body module does not go asleep.
so any where from 1.5 amps to 3.1 amps of battery drain....
hard on batteries in the winter time!
40 to 90 bucks for the latch assy depending on where you buy it from.
i like dorman brand. they hold up pretty good to Iowa cold and hot.

and yes the battery in the rav was swapped out last fall.
it was date stamped 10 years 2 months!
but it has a good battery charger on board!
 
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