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To answer your specific question: Yes, had they entered 490 instead of 640 the battery would've shown 78% Health (382/490) instead of 59% (382/640).
 
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Thank you Dr Dyno, appreciate your knowledge.
A little more info: I have the same type battery tester. You enter the CCA which is supposed to be what's listed on the battery. In this case someone got lazy and likely just left the number in from the previous test. Or maybe they were trying to sell you a battery.

But as a case in point the Health % isn't always of practical value. Last NewYear's Eve day (12/31/2021) I helped a friend of the family buy a very nice 2011 Odyssey from a private seller. While running an extensive all-systems test with my Autel scanner the battery went dead. The seller said, "You may need a new battery." Normally that might've ended the buy but the van was in such good condition, especially for the price, that I jumped it with my Accord and we bought it and she drove it home.

The van sat at her house for a few days since she had to get it registered. Battery went dead again. I put a charger on it and it started. The same thing happened a few days later even tho it tested good the several times I tested it. Told a friend the story. He said, "It's winter, (in Connecticut) buy a new battery." We went to Walmart and did so but I kept the old battery.

On 1/22/2022 it tested 604/600 CCA or 100% Health. Today after sitting on my garage floor for six months it read 573/600 = 92% health so I'll keep it for some future use but the question remains why was it not reliable in the Odyssey. The only possibility is the van is the highest trim, the Touring Elite model, so the parasitic battery drain may have been too much for the several year old battery.

So my advice is the same as the others, once it fails once replace it.

Here's my experience with our 2006 RAV4: Instant battery death, experienced & explained
 
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