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Discussion Starter #1
Hey! I'm new here but I've already learned quite a bit. I have a 2010 RAV4 Sport four cylinder. The blower was barely moving at one two and three and only sometimes moved on four but I could hear squeaking. I took out the glove box and gave the blower a bump with my hand and now it blows full blast no matter what the setting, even if it's on zero. I'm hoping that it is not the blower motor but I'm not extremely knowledgeable in checking various connections. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. The wiring harnesses and relays are things that I'm not familiar enough with yet. Thanks in advance for the help! JB
 

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Welcome! If the motor runs full speed at all it must be okay.
You were probably disturbing a failed resistor module. My RAV4 has automatic not manual A/C so I don't have a resistor but I've replaced many of them on other cars. Usually pretty easy. Should be on the bottom of the air plenum near the blower & probably has a 4-wire plug.
 

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Yes the blower resistor is located near the blower as shown on these images.

When a blower resistor burns out, the normal symptoms are that the blower will only run when the selector switch is set for high speed. It will not run on any of the other speeds. Another possibility is that your speed selector switch is defective.

Pull the 4 pin connector off of the resistor pack. If the blower continues to run at high speed on all settings of the switch, then the switch is defective.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! I will test the resistor pack.
If it turns out to be the switch, which I assume you mean is the speed selector Round Knob on the control panel, what do I do about replacing that it doesn't seem to be simply a pull off sort of peace. I don't know how to access the resistor pack but I'm sure I will see it once I drop the glove box, yes? Thanks for all your help people. I drive for Uber and Lyft and I can't be without air. Oh, by the way I guess I should have updated you that the blower has gone back down to blowing virtually nothing on any speed although it is still working on all speeds including zero. It's hard to reach up under the glove box and give it a whack when there's someone in the passenger seat that's paying you to take them somewhere. Until this problem is fixed I am out of the Uber game. So I'm desperate. And broke.
 

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9 times out of 10 it's the resistor pack. Pull it out and take a look. If it looks burned up any AP store has one. Also check the condition of the wires in the connector. This may be a five minute fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All signs pointed to the resistor pack. But when I replaced it I still get absolutely nothing from the blower, I reinstalled my old resistor pack and gave the fan a bump like usual and although I didn't give it a bump one the other resistor pack was installed it came on full blast and then slowly petered out no matter what the selector switch was set on. So, if the blower is capable of blowing full blast, then it must be the selector switch right? I don't know where to get one and I sure don't know how to tear the dash apart to install it. Help! Thanks y'all.
 

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Since the blower changes speed when you bump it, the problem may be the blower itself, or more likely something preventing it from turning. Have you removed the cabin filter and reached in to see if a rodent has built a nest within the blower housing?

After eliminating a buildup of foreign material, try this.....remove the 4 pin connector from the resistor pack. There should be a white/black, a red, and 2 light-blue wires.

Your need to connect the light-blue wire that is in position #1 of the connector to a ground point in your vehicle (see image for pin location). Note that the other light-blue wire should be located on pin #3 of the connector.

This procedure will bypass both the speed selector and the resistor pack.

If the blower runs at full speed, then it is OK, if it doesn't run at full speed then it is defective.

 

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Also since the blower is fairly easy to remove that may be the best way to clear all obstructions if you find any.

Then Rick's test will be definitive on the motor's health. You can do it with a short piece of insulated wire. I wouldn't use bare wire because even tho it's only 12V some parts like motors can generate an unpleasant inductive voltage kick when you disconnect them.
 

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Pull the 4 pin connector off of the resistor pack. If the blower continues to run at high speed on all settings of the switch, then the switch is defective.
All signs pointed to the resistor pack.
It's not clear if you arrived at this conclusion by performing the test I described! If you removed the connector from the resistor pack, and found that the blower ran normally when the speed selector was set to maximum (and not run at all on the other speeds), then the resistor pack is defective.

But when I replaced it I still get absolutely nothing from the blower,
So the blower did work normally before you plugged in the new resistor pack?

So, if the blower is capable of blowing full blast, then it must be the selector switch right?
I can't say at this point without confirmation of the previous questions. Since the blower seems to run when you bang on it, I still suspect the blower blades are obstructed, or the 2 pin power connector is loose. Try removing and re-seating this connector. It has a light-blue and black wire. The location of this connector, as well as the blower testing procedure is shown below.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
No, the blower did not work normally before plugging in the new resistor pack. Right now it is not really blowing at all without a bump to the fan but it hasn't run full speed at all and still blows some air when set to zero. I took out the cabin air filter but I cannot visualize or reach the entire fan to check it out I was only able to get my fingers in there and feel whether or not there was anything inside the blower so I'm thinking to make sure there is no debris I will have to drop the bottom of the blower enclosure unit in order to thoroughly inspect the blower. As far as reseating the resistor pack wires, I am not familiar with the term and I don't know how to take the wires out to perform the test much less put them back. I need help with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The car is out of warranty. All together. I do not have the funds to buy a new blower right now so I have to perform as many checks as possible before I resort to whatever is left as the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have pulled the blower motor and there are no obstructions in the motor itself nor are there any obstructions in the housing. I have unplugged and plugged back in the power to the blower the black and blue wires that I described as not knowing what on unseat means? At this point the blower does the same thing on all speeds including zero and that is when I bump it it may or may not come on full no matter what, it's the same on all speeds. If it does blow full blast it's only for a moment as it begins to slow down. Tomorrow I will try to perform one of the tests although my expertise is limited. I suppose at this point that it is either the blower motor or the switch. Selector switch. When the blower is running I do hear a click in the motor although there are no obstructions. I look forward to your reply. JB
 

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All signs pointed to the resistor pack.
No, the blower did not work normally before plugging in the new resistor pack.
If the blower did not work at the high speed setting, with the resistor pack unplugged, then all signs did not point to the resistor pack!

I have pulled the blower motor and there are no obstructions in the motor itself nor are there any obstructions in the housing. I have unplugged and plugged back in the power to the blower the black and blue wires that I described as not knowing what on unseat means?
Removing and re-seating the connector means remove and replace the connector which you already have done. This would normally resolve problems like a loose or corroded connector.

Did the fan blades rotate freely when you pulled the blower? In other words, if you gave the blades a spin with your hand did they continue to spin for a few seconds, or did the blades resist movement?

Since you have pulled the blower motor already, you can easily prove beyond a shadow of a doubt if the blower is defective by connecting the 2 pins on the blower connector (where the black and blue wires were connected) to the RAV's battery as shown on the image I attached earlier. This is a very easy test to perform, and will provide the needed information.

If you have already re-installed the blower, then you can run a pair of wires from your battery to the connector on the blower while it is mounted in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will perform the test on the connector. If the blower works, then it's the speed selector.
Yes, the blades moved easily by hand on the unmounted blower.
However, today's new and bizarre twist : my mother and I had to go look at an apartment so I banged on the blower motor to try to get some AC and my loss of traction light, my four wheel drive light, and we were going three times the speed that the four-wheel drive will engage in, and my check engine light. Nothing wrong with the temperature of the engine not leaking oil no reason any of these life should be on. Is it possible that this entire situation is something deeper with the electrical system that needs to be diagnosed. By that I mean plugged up to the computer at Midas or wherever. I've stopped and started the car several times and the lights stay on which makes no sense whatsoever. I don't know what fuses Etc could possibly be involved in that kind of a bizarre electrical gremlin but it all seems to me to be tied together.
Sooo , there's that.
PS, all points that I was aware of and understood at the time went to the resistor pack. The fact that it wasn't the resistor pack is one of the reasons that I think it may be a more systemic electrical system problem. And then of course there are the Phantom lights.
 

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My approach always is to fix what you know is wrong and maybe other problems go away. In this case the blower. Run Ricks tests and replace it if necessary. No more kicking! That might be causing some electrical surge which is setting the error lights.
 

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I will perform the test on the connector. If the blower works, then it's the speed selector.
There is still the possibility that a defective relay might be the cause, but the fact that the blower operates when you bang on it, suggests that the blower itself may be defective. Testing the blower is also the the most simple test to perform.

A word of warning, when connecting power from the battery to the 2 blower contacts, I suggest you have a helper hold the blower steady. If the blower should start spinning, the torque of the motor will cause it to move from whatever surface you have it resting on.

With regards to the warning lights, this is a very common situation discussed in this thread. It could be caused by something as simple as a loose gas cap. It is likely the new warnings are just coincidence and have nothing to do with your blower problem. On the other hand, as Dr. Dyno suggested, the electrical surges caused by hitting the blower could be related to this newest problem.

So to summarize the testing steps suggested so far......
1) Unplug the connector from the resistor pack, place the speed selector on the highest setting. The Blower Should Run, if it doesn't, try step #2

2) Remove the blower and connect the 2 terminals to the 2 battery posts. The Blower Should Run. If it doesn't then replace the blower.

3) The remaining tests could be simplified if you have an electrical multi-meter (do you have one?), otherwise they will require eliminating possible problems by bypassing and substituting components.

NOTE: Back in post #11 you said the blower does move some air even when it is switched to zero. Can you confirm that this is still true? Can you confirm it continues to run at this speed despite the changes on the speed selector?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The blower may or may not move some small quantity of air no matter what setting from 0 to 4. This is after giving it a slight bump, at which time it may blow a little stronger but immediately starts to decrease, most often to nothing. Note! The first thing I did just now was disconnect the negative pole on the battery. Reconnecting it and starting the car I discovered that my suspicion was correct! No more warning lights. Say it the one that says maintenance required because I need to change my oil. By the way the cabin air filter is brand-new now. It was filthy. So, I will perform the resistor test one more time and then proceed to unmount the blower and connect to the battery. Can this test be run with the fan in place and would it or would it not be connected to the resistor pack? Trying to save a little labor but why not pull it and examine the housing one more time. I believe I answered your question that the blades do move freely if I could spend them with my finger when the blower is unmounted and uncircuited. I do have a multimeter but I don't really know how to use it. It was a random gift from a friend. Let's see what happens when I connect the blower. should be doing that within a half an hour if you have any words of wisdom before then. Thank you so much for your help. I will report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I have performed the battery test connecting the blower motor directly to the battery and got absolutely nothing. So, I am going to pronounce the blower motor dead. When I replace the blower motor will the mysterious selector switch begin to behave again? Before it was blowing whatever it would blow on all speeds 0 through 4. So when I replace the blower motor my question is will the selector start to work then? Thanks!
 

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Everything should work normally when you replace the defective motor. Of course my next step would be taking the old motor apart for an autopsy.
 
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