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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just replaced most of the brake system on my 4.1,
- Master cylinder
- Front brakes - brake hoses, rotors, calipers, pads
- Rear brakes - brakes hoses, drums, shoes, springs, misc hardware

Inspected all lines and found a real problem right under the drivers seat (under the car of course). Removed the plastic protective cover and found both of the brake lines and the fuel lines going to the rear heavily corroded under the retainers. In fact one line broke when I removed it from the retainer.

I would highly recommend anyone to inspect their brake lines as soon as possible.
 

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yep I think they are ready for replacement:shock: I replaced mine last year and its a 94. They were fairly rusty but not as bad as that. They will fail mot here for just being pitted, but not bad for original pipes on a 21 year old motor in a damp climate:smile
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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Yeah, that looks like a huge safety hazard. Has your RAV spent any time up north on salt treated roads?
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah this was a New Jersey car, salt and road acids must have built up in the retaining clips causing the problem. Replaced them with Copper/Nickel/Iron Alloy Tubing NiCopp should never corrode again. Will also be replacing the gas line which is also badly corroded.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Found another spot, where the lines turn and run up the fire wall behind the engine, there is another retaining clip and all lines running through it are badly corroded, once again the outside line ruptured when I tried to remove it from the clip.
 

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Those brake lines have quite a lot of corrosion - they appear almost as if someone had sprayed strong acid onto them. Is there that sort of rust anywhere else on the vehicle? It's obviously good that you spotted and are dealing with the problem before there was a much more dangerous problem!
 
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must have been in a lot of salt water or lived near the coast with the rav as the main places for them to rot is around the back axle and at the two front wheels where they leave the engine bay to the flexi pipes. check your fuel pipes in around the back and side of the tank as I had to replace mine and also the filler pipe but you already prob know about that well documented one.
Could have been a lot of water/condensation in the old fluid as they look as if they could have been rusting from the inside as well
 

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Found another spot, where the lines turn and run up the fire wall behind the engine, there is another retaining clip and all lines running through it are badly corroded, once again the outside line ruptured when I tried to remove it from the clip.
:shock: :egad: Your a lucky man you were so close to total brake failure
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yes I am lucky not to have brake failure, but I take good care of my vehicles, this RAV4 had been in storage for over a year and I was giving it a good go over before I put it back on the road. One reason for the complete brake job was all the corrosion, didn't give me any warm fuzzies. I will check the filler neck too, thanks for the info. I don't know if it's whatever material the retainers are made of or if salts and grime just accumulated there; all the corrosion is only where the retainers are. The Copper/Nickel/Iron Alloy Tubing NiCopp is supposed to be impervious to this, so that's why I went that way instead of the polysteel lines.
 

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I always use the copper or cupronickel as it easy to work with, to tell you the truth not sure if polysteel as you call it is available on this side of the pond, only ever seen copper and cupronickel. I take it polysteel is the same as what came on the rav4,s originally? prob hard to work with too.
I find original brake pipes are all plastic coated steel here they have a good lifespan, but like all plastic coated steel I find here the steel is bare and never treated anti- corrosion coatings, therefore when the plastic seal breaks metal will eat through in no time. Wouldn't it be great if brake lines were galvanised along with the rest of the body too lol
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not sure what the original specs are for the brake lines but the problems with the polysteel is as you said once the poly lining is compromised the steel line under it is going to degrade. The Copper/Nickel/Iron Alloy Tubing NiCopp is supposed to be impervious to corrosion and it is way easier to bend, you can form it with your hands without it kinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally completed the brake repairs, replaced the lines going to the rear wheels, the flex hose, and the line between the flex hose and the wheel cylinder. Bled the brakes and the clutch. Test drive successful.
Also, replaced the fuel line that was also seriously corroded.
 

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And that is why I get all my 1990's cars from the southern states :). This is pretty typical for Northeast car, which makes local Rav4.1s worthless :(.


And I mean it! This is my current "car collection":


96 Eclipse Spyder - from Florida
97 Rav4 - from Florida
93 Eagle Summit - Arizona
01 Isuzu Vehicross - North Carolina
80 Triumph TR7 - Sothern California


But... I am surprised to hear that Ireland has similar rust problems! I would think that it should be similar to Florida in terms of rust.
 
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Damp climate and a lot of salt on roads on the winter. I would say without a doubt that any region that uses a lot of road salt (here its usually 3 months but can be anything up to 6 months in the year) is the main reason why cars rot so quick, its like driving your car on through salt water for 3 months every winter :roll:
Nice collection of vehicles Leon:smile
 

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I didn't realize that Ireland used a lot of salt. I always ASSumed that it was a warmer climate, thanks for correcting me.


Being in New England, I am very familiar with evils of road salt!
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got her back on the road, took a test drive, all seemed well, so I took a short (2 hour) road trip, and the 5-speed 4x4 manual tranny decided to grind itself to bits. Challenges, always a challenge. Off to find a used trany and to pick out a clutch. Topics for a new thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm renewing this post to get this information out to more people for safety.
 
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