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Discussion Starter #1
My daughter has had this 2000 2wd automatic RAV 4 for about 2 weeks.

When she purchased it, I checked it out fairly thoroughly.

I knew there was a brake problem, and it was warped front rotors. We were able to get those replaced (and new pads).

Motor seemed to run fine. Had good compression on all 4 cylinders (150-155). I noted a bunch of oily crud on the back and bottom; which I felt was normal for a 15 year old car.

As she drove it over the past two weeks, I checked the oil, and checked for leaks. I saw no leaks, and the motor had good levels.

Tonight, as she was driving it, it seemed to make a rather loud rattle. Then it died. Copious amounts of oil leaking. I did not get a good chance to see where the oil was coming from, but it was the timing-side (not the transmission side). Seemed it was coming off the oil pan, near the drain, but it could have been coming from up higher.

Motor turns, but doesn't start.

I pulled off the timing belt cover, and the belt looked okay, but it had some oil on it.

When I plugged my scanner into the ODBC port, there were no codes on the ECU.

I am having a really difficult time finding manuals or even diagrams of this engine, online.

Does anyone have any idea if this is a common problem with this motor? Is there something specific that fails on these engines? Balancer seal? Crankshaft seal? This one only has 218,000 miles.
 

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With 218,000 miles and probably no records of oil change frequency, I am wondering if your RAV4 has had an oil sludge engine seize up.
 

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Sounds like she's kicked a leg out of bed (thrown a rod) if there is lots of oil running down the block, i would get an inspection camera in there and have a look for cracks in the side of the block that the oil could be coming from.

Give the whole engine a good look over and make sure you still have good compression on all cylinders, the first gen engines are non-interference, so it can't have been valves smashing that you heard.

The sound of the cranking will tell you a lot too, if it sounds like its evenly compressing all 4 cylinders, its probably not so bad., but if it effortlessly skips one or more, maybe not so good!, give it a try!
 

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It may have developed the oil leak for as yet an unknown reason. Then she ran it low on oil causing bearing failure and the knock and possibly the timing belt to slip. Why didn't the oil light come on? Maybe it did and she kept driving or possibly it isn't working.
I'd check the oil level, the light for working and the timing belt for slippage. Then do the compression test if it won't start. If it will start you'll be able to locate the oil leak and hear any bearing knocks.
If it is terminal I'd look for a used engine instead of a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice.

I did not know this engine was a non-interference engine. That is good to know. I am trying to look up information on this engine, is it the 1az-fe?

I'm pretty experienced with cars, but I can say I think the dipstick on this engine was hard to read. After the failure, it seemed there was certainly enough oil in it. (remove dipstick, wipe dipstick clean, insert dipstick, remove, read: there was oil all over it, but no clear level-line). I am pretty sure the oil light is working, and was not "on". But it drained out easily two quarts over half a block. I'm thinking that it could be from the region of the oil pump.

When we turned the engine with the starter, it seemed to turn smooth; sounded just the same as it did before trying to start. (only no start).

We weren't able to leave it where it was last night, so we got it towed, and it's at a local independent shop today.

I like to get some ballpark idea of what the problem actually is, before a shop goes in and tells me the blinker fluid pump exploded.
 

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... before a shop goes in and tells me the blinker fluid pump exploded.
:lol: Yeah, and make sure they know you only use the special purple Toyota lifetime fluid in your blinker pump so a failure there is highly unlikely. :thumbs_up:
 

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:lol: Yeah, and make sure they know you only use the special purple Toyota lifetime fluid in your blinker pump so a failure there is highly unlikely. :thumbs_up:

I think that they were being facetious . . .:wink
 

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I know! :wink And besides if the blinker fluid pump did explode there's be purple blinker fluid all over the place, :egad: an immediate telltale sign.
 

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Thanks for the advice.

I did not know this engine was a non-interference engine. That is good to know. I am trying to look up information on this engine, is it the 1az-fe?

I'm pretty experienced with cars, but I can say I think the dipstick on this engine was hard to read. After the failure, it seemed there was certainly enough oil in it. (remove dipstick, wipe dipstick clean, insert dipstick, remove, read: there was oil all over it, but no clear level-line). I am pretty sure the oil light is working, and was not "on". But it drained out easily two quarts over half a block. I'm thinking that it could be from the region of the oil pump.

When we turned the engine with the starter, it seemed to turn smooth; sounded just the same as it did before trying to start. (only no start).

We weren't able to leave it where it was last night, so we got it towed, and it's at a local independent shop today.

I like to get some ballpark idea of what the problem actually is, before a shop goes in and tells me the blinker fluid pump exploded.
If its a first gen RAV its a 3S-FE, if its second gen its a 1AZ-FE, is yours a 2000 first gen or 2000 delivered second gen? there was an overlap in 2000 in some areas.

I am curious as to what the clunking was if its spinning free and appears to have even compression, as DR.Dyno has said, check under the timing cover for a blown oil pump seal and stripped belt, the oil would trash the belt for starters!
 

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I know! :wink And besides if the blinker fluid pump did explode there's be purple blinker fluid all over the place, :egad: an immediate telltale sign.

Dang! Something else to be concerned about with our RAVs! :laugh
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do not know if this is a first gen with a 3S-FE or a second gen with a 1AZ-FE.

How do I tell the difference?

Diagnosis turned out that there was no catastrophic oil leak. The leaking fluid was coolant. What clunked then broke, was the water-pump. There is some oil (or fluid) on the timing belt, so there may be a small oil leak in there, as well.

After that, we assume the block or two my daughter drove before the engine shut itself down, caused the engine to overheat.

I am gobsmacked over how the water pump just gave up like that without any warning. The previous owner said the timing belt was done at 180k miles, and looking at the belt, it looks to be accurate. But I guess people don't always change water pumps with timing belts?

The shop says there is no compression. The motor does turn quite easily with the starter, it just doesn't fire.
They are recommending a new engine. I am wondering if I can get away with just a new water pump and cylinder head.
 

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No compression across the board? wonder if the belt or chain has gone

this should fill you in on the RAV series https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_RAV4
second gen is the 1az engine and uses chains, if that is what broke then your in trouble, a new engine would be the go.

if its a 3S thats broken or stripped its belt, they can do the front main and oil pump seals with the timing belt kit and it should go again, and water pump while in there. the head should be fine if its a 3S since that one is non interference.
I paid about $90AUD for a Gates timing kit for Bluey and fitted it myself, it had the oil pump and front main seal in it, along with the idler tensioner. water pump was about $50 and easy to fit.
 

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if it is a 3S-FE, get them to verify the integrity of the timing belt first, the head should be fine. I would bet the timing belt has given up due to oil damage, all of that can be fixed with a timing kit and a lot of degreaser.

If the engine itself was smoking or really noisy to begin with, then I would consider a replacement engine, given the whole car is even worth the money to do so?

Edit: what I should say is, make sure that the crank pulley end of the belt is not stripped of teeth, the top of it can look fine and still be under tension, but it will not rotate when the crank does.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The timing belt, to me, looks intact. It spins when you run the starter, so I don't think there are missing teeth.

I'm looking at timing belt kits for this motor, and I'm seeing prices of around $130. Includes water pump.

If there is no compression, across the board, then I would assume: burnt valves, or seats, or head gasket, or cracked head. That's what I'm thinking. I guess I can't really know unless I just either have them take off the head, or do it myself. I suppose that if the pistons and cylinders are screwed up, that could be another cause of no compression.

The shop seems reluctant to work on this car: they're suggesting a whole new engine. I can't even find a used motor for less than $700 with shipping. Given that's a used engine, and there would be incidentals, and labor (because I don't have an engine hoist), and it seems like overkill if the bottom end is okay.

Just a head seems to be about $450. Unless I can find a more reasonable source.
 

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nah, if the cam is running fine, I would say you had a catastrophic failure in the bottom end, odd that all 4 rods would go, but hey its possible. drain the oil and see if metal crumbs come out with it!. if the mechanics do not want to see whats going on, the worst you can do is take it back home and start taking it apart, over here a complete RAV like my Bluey costs about $1200 total, not worth spending a grand or so replacing a single engine to be honest.

At this point its really up to you and the mechanics, investigate further, or make a hard decision on its fate :(

wish they would hurry up and invent teleportation technology. just warp the poor thing to me and I can tell you whats up for sure :p, would not even charge for it since I enjoy that kind of equipment autopsy :D
 

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They say "it has no compression" but don't want to work on it. Probably means they didn't actually do a compression test. I'd start there. If all cylinders are down the same but not zero the belt must have slipped. If they are different it's most likely the head gasket.
Any serious damage to the crank, pistons, rods is very unlikely unless she was revving it to 6,000 with no coolant. In that case there'd be plenty of banging upon cranking.
I'd pinpoint the problems before buying any parts.
 

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...Just warp the poor thing to me and I can tell you whats up for sure :p, would not even charge for it since I enjoy that kind of equipment autopsy :D
ME TOO! :cheers:

How many RAV4s on this forum could many of us diagnose and maybe even fix in ten minutes? :wink
And if they were major disasters :egad: we'd just give them the :kissof death and warp them back.
 
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