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Discussion Starter #1


Kept the original Pioneer AVH-6788 head unit flashed up to the latest firmware avail from Toyota: https://www.rav4world.com/threads/just-had-entune-infotainment-update.298947/post-2704559

  1. Removed the 6 existing stock 20W Pioneer speakers and replaced with 2 JBL CLUB3020 3ohm + 4 JBL CLUB6520 3ohm ($32 + $90 = $122) via amazon prime
  2. Installed Soundstream ST4.1200D Stealth Series 1200W Class D 4 chan amp $113 via amazon prime
Additional Items purchased:
4 Mosuch 6.5inch plastic black speaker adapter ($15)
VOODOO 18 AWG Gauge 9 Conductor Speed Blue Wire Speaker Trailer Copper Stranded (20 FT) ($20)
XHF Conductor Compact Connectors Lever-Nut (SPL-2, 25PCS) ($16)
Lever-Nut Assortment Conductor Compact Wire Connectors PCT-212(25 PCS) PCT-213(25 PCS) PCT-214(25 PCS) PCT-215(25 PCS) 100PCS ($26)

$312 in parts total

Notes:
Speaker wires leaving G4 connector of Pioneer head unit are aluminum conductor and cannot be soldered hence why various Lever-Nuts are used for interconnects
Stealth amp hidden away in the glove box that is still functional (open/close as show in the gif above)
Manual SOS button operates and readback audio is fed to right-hand 3.5inch JBL CLUB3020 only (Telematics audio no longer comes thru right-hand door speaker since high-level amp input is taken prior to DCM)
No need to worry about splicing amp aux turn on since the ST4.1200D will auto detect high-level speaker signal and will turn on/off whenever the head unit is on (no thumps)

Optional:
Quimat Updated 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope Kit with Power Supply and BNC-Clip Cable Probe Q15001 (Assembled Finished Machine)
If you don't have a cheap Oscilloscope, you should consider something like the above in order to match the gains of the amp properly to avoid distortion at higher volume levels.
The class D stealth amp is stable using the 3ohm JBL speakers chosen but has a tendency to distort > Volume 46 from the Pioneer head unit as I measured on my RAV4 (Volume level 0-45 is clean stable using 1kHz & 50Hz 0dB test tones)

Questions!?
 

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Thanks for posts, would like to know how the JBL bass pro hub install went, as I want put the same sub in my Rav4. Any mods or advice when fitting the

How did you do the crossovers between the Sub and the front speakers?

How does this Sub sound from the Spare wheel with the Cover and Mat over it?



Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4


HPF/LPF is disabled/not used since I have the ST4.1200D parked in the glove compartment set for Full Pass on both channels as shown above.

Thru-out output of the ST4.1200D is 'tied' internally to the Front input mini-SPOX connector only and this is what I am feeding into the JBL Bass Pro. I actually have the Front left/right 2 pair from G4 of the head unit wired into the Rear mini-SPOX on the ST4.1200D and the Rear speakers from G4 terminating into the Front mini-SPOX. This allows the fader/balance control of the head unit to provide more volume from the sub when faded to the rear and less faded to the front.

JBL Bass Pro Hub installed is a snug fit and has @1inch clearance under cover/matt. Low bass freq are unaffected by being covered by the matt. Added much-needed bass freq that was lacking from the budget full range coaxials I had previously installed in all 4 doors and in the dash.

Ended up grabbing 12VDC straight from the convince outlet located in the boot to power the sub (uses an internal fairly small 200W class-D amp)...
 

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Thank you for your post. I am currently planning to swap my 6 speakers as well and had the following 3 questions.

- For the tweeter, are the 3.5 tweeter in the dash it self? How do you access it? Just pry off the plastic grill?

- For the door speakers, did you entirely removed the oem one or simply cutted them and installed the new one over them?

- Any chance in finding the cable adapters? I mean worst case I can always use wire connectors.

I don't want an amp though, can I just replace the 6 speakers and they will sound better since they are better speakers to start with.
 

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Thank you for your post. I am currently planning to swap my 6 speakers as well and had the following 3 questions.

- For the tweeter, are the 3.5 tweeter in the dash it self? How do you access it? Just pry off the plastic grill?

- For the door speakers, did you entirely removed the oem one or simply cutted them and installed the new one over them?

- Any chance in finding the cable adapters? I mean worst case I can always use wire connectors.

I don't want an amp though, can I just replace the 6 speakers and they will sound better since they are better speakers to start with.
Interested in this as well. From what I found the go to speakers are the JBL club series or infinity ref.
 

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Is the stock head unit good enough to power the JBL Club speakers without an amp (for better than stock / decent sound)? Any other speakers you would suggest if going the non-amplified route?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is the stock head unit good enough to power the JBL Club speakers without an amp (for better than stock / decent sound)?

Not really as further explained in the video linked above @13min mark.
Some type of separate amp is required in order to properly drive decent aftermarket speakers IMHO...


Having swapped all 6 speakers and added an amp to my 2019 RAV4 here are a couple of items to keep in mind during your install:

Until you get an amplifier the 2 pair front speakers at 3ohm each (2dash+2door) will appear as @1.5ohm to the factory head unit since they will be wired in parallel. I'm not sure how well the factory head unit will be able to handle this 1.5ohm load at full volume as I had added the external amp in order to drive all 4 door speakers minus the 2 dash which continue to be driven by the stock head unit.

You will find the pair of speaker wires feeding each of the 4 doors are on the short side and are meant to plug into the stock speakers from the outside of the door behind the panel. I had to actually pull/trim back the loom on all 4 doors to expose enough length of wire in order to feed the wire inside of the door to be able to terminate onto the replacement speakers since I didn't use any type of adapter/jumper cable and just spliced into the harness.
 

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Not really as further explained in the video linked above @13min mark.
Some type of separate amp is required in order to properly drive decent aftermarket speakers IMHO...


Having swapped all 6 speakers and added an amp to my 2019 RAV4 here are a couple of items to keep in mind during your install:

Until you get an amplifier the 2 pair front speakers at 3ohm each (2dash+2door) will appear as @1.5ohm to the factory head unit since they will be wired in parallel. I'm not sure how well the factory head unit will be able to handle this 1.5ohm load at full volume as I had added the external amp in order to drive all 4 door speakers minus the 2 dash which continue to be driven by the stock head unit.

You will find the pair of speaker wires feeding each of the 4 doors are on the short side and are meant to plug into the stock speakers from the outside of the door behind the panel. I had to actually pull/trim back the loom on all 4 doors to expose enough length of wire in order to feed the wire inside of the door to be able to terminate onto the replacement speakers since I didn't use any type of adapter/jumper cable and just spliced into the harness.
What did you put in as far as speakers and amp?
 

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Do you think someone with no experience can do this installation? Any idea how much a professional would charge for a job like this?
 

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Not really as further explained in the video linked above @13min mark.
Some type of separate amp is required in order to properly drive decent aftermarket speakers IMHO...


Having swapped all 6 speakers and added an amp to my 2019 RAV4 here are a couple of items to keep in mind during your install:

Until you get an amplifier the 2 pair front speakers at 3ohm each (2dash+2door) will appear as @1.5ohm to the factory head unit since they will be wired in parallel. I'm not sure how well the factory head unit will be able to handle this 1.5ohm load at full volume as I had added the external amp in order to drive all 4 door speakers minus the 2 dash which continue to be driven by the stock head unit.

You will find the pair of speaker wires feeding each of the 4 doors are on the short side and are meant to plug into the stock speakers from the outside of the door behind the panel. I had to actually pull/trim back the loom on all 4 doors to expose enough length of wire in order to feed the wire inside of the door to be able to terminate onto the replacement speakers since I didn't use any type of adapter/jumper cable and just spliced into the harness.
Thanks! The last time I did car audio was maybe 15 years ago when you had to run a fat gauge wire to the 12V battery to power the amp. Since the amp you purchased is so small do you have to run a wire through the firewall straight to the battery as well? Or is there another available power source to tap into? #caraudionoob
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks! The last time I did car audio was maybe 15 years ago when you had to run a fat gauge wire to the 12V battery to power the amp. Since the amp you purchased is so small do you have to run a wire through the firewall straight to the battery as well? Or is there another available power source to tap into? #caraudionoob


Power cable pigtail that was supplied with the ST4.1200D is only 16 gauge wire pictured above.

BNTECHGO 14 Gauge Flexible 2 Conductor Parallel Silicone Wire Spool Red Black High Resistant 200 deg C 600V for Single Color LED Strip Extension Cable Cord,Model,Lead Wire 20ft Stranded Copper Wire

Used the above linked 2 conductor silicone wire 14 gauge for the short run between glove box where amp is parked to passenger's side footwell where constant 12VDC is avail for passenger's side window fed by 30A fuse (amp is fused at 20A) behind the kick panel. The ST4.1200D requires no accessory turn on since it can detect via the head unit when audio signal is present and will turn itself ON automatically when RAV4 is turned ON and will shut off when vehicle is turned off...
 

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Great post - I'm interested in keeping the car as close to stock as possible. Just to make sure I understand, you either do the speakers and amp or do neither? I'd only be interested in swapping speakers. I'm no audiophile, I just like loud, bassy sounds in my music.
 

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Great post - I'm interested in keeping the car as close to stock as possible. Just to make sure I understand, you either do the speakers and amp or do neither? I'd only be interested in swapping speakers. I'm no audiophile, I just like loud, bassy sounds in my music.
I think if you want bass you need the amp. I'm going to pick away at this and start with dash speakers with everything else factory. Going to pop in infinity reference speakers. If that goes well I'll consider changing the doors and maybe adding an amp. Seems to be a decent amount of room to hide an amp under the passenger side foot space.
 

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I think if you want bass you need the amp. I'm going to pick away at this and start with dash speakers with everything else factory. Going to pop in infinity reference speakers. If that goes well I'll consider changing the doors and maybe adding an amp. Seems to be a decent amount of room to hide an amp under the passenger side foot space.
Awesome keep us updated, keen to hear the incremental benefits as you go
 

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Awesome keep us updated, keen to hear the incremental benefits as you go
Just put them on. Took 20 min at most. The infinity ref 3022 speakers weigh so much more than the stock. They sound is very clear. I don't pump music too loud so I figure this should do before I decide to upgrade all speakers. I opted to replace the dash speakers first because it was the simplest and seemed like it would get the most benefit as it's closest to my head. I bought adapters off eBay so it's all plug and play.
The stock speakers feel like a kids toy. Hard to quantify the change but the sound is noticeably better.
 

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Just put them on. Took 20 min at most. The infinity ref 3022 speakers weigh so much more than the stock. They sound is very clear. I don't pump music too loud so I figure this should do before I decide to upgrade all speakers. I opted to replace the dash speakers first because it was the simplest and seemed like it would get the most benefit as it's closest to my head. I bought adapters off eBay so it's all plug and play.
The stock speakers feel like a kids toy. Hard to quantify the change but the sound is noticeably better.
Can you provide a link to the adapters off ebay? I just bought a pair of JBL GTO629 and will likely do my installation later this month. Also, did you install an amplifier? If so, which one did you go with?
 

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Can you provide a link to the adapters off ebay? I just bought a pair of JBL GTO629 and will likely do my installation later this month. Also, did you install an amplifier? If so, which one did you go with?
The adaptors are below. To maintain the plug and play, I didn't install the bass blockers.

I haven't installed an amp and so far For everyday listening they are plenty loud and clear. I'll maybe change the door speakers and add an amp but not in the near future.
 

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How can I access the G4 Connector? I just want to add bass to my rav4, and will only be installing the Basspro Hub. I don´t want to disassemble door panels and fish cables. I think I would prefer just to splice the 3&8 and 4&9 cables on the G4 Connector (if I´m not wrong), and run them thru side edge plastic covers.

Did you obtain the signal for the Basspro hub from the Rear Door Speakers, or Front Door Speakers?

Did you needed to connect the remote blue cable? If I´m not wrong, I should not be needing to connect this cable if I´m using high level input.

I know Im asking a lot, but since you have the G4 plug in your glove compartment, can you please tell me the colors of the appropriate cables?

I will really appreciate your help, and any knowledge and info you can bring to my project.
 
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