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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


Kept the original Pioneer AVH-6788 head unit flashed up to the latest firmware avail from Toyota: https://www.rav4world.com/threads/just-had-entune-infotainment-update.298947/post-2704559

  1. Removed the 6 existing stock 20W Pioneer speakers and replaced with 2 JBL CLUB3020 3ohm + 4 JBL CLUB6520 3ohm ($32 + $90 = $122) via amazon prime
  2. Installed Soundstream ST4.1200D Stealth Series 1200W Class D 4 chan amp $113 via amazon prime
Additional Items purchased:
4 Mosuch 6.5inch plastic black speaker adapter ($15)
VOODOO 18 AWG Gauge 9 Conductor Speed Blue Wire Speaker Trailer Copper Stranded (20 FT) ($20)
XHF Conductor Compact Connectors Lever-Nut (SPL-2, 25PCS) ($16)
Lever-Nut Assortment Conductor Compact Wire Connectors PCT-212(25 PCS) PCT-213(25 PCS) PCT-214(25 PCS) PCT-215(25 PCS) 100PCS ($26)

$312 in parts total

Notes:
Speaker wires leaving G4 connector of Pioneer head unit are aluminum conductor and cannot be soldered hence why various Lever-Nuts are used for interconnects
Stealth amp hidden away in the glove box that is still functional (open/close as show in the gif above)
Manual SOS button operates and readback audio is fed to right-hand 3.5inch JBL CLUB3020 only (Telematics audio no longer comes thru right-hand door speaker since high-level amp input is taken prior to DCM)
No need to worry about splicing amp aux turn on since the ST4.1200D will auto detect high-level speaker signal and will turn on/off whenever the head unit is on (no thumps)

Optional:
Quimat Updated 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope Kit with Power Supply and BNC-Clip Cable Probe Q15001 (Assembled Finished Machine)
If you don't have a cheap Oscilloscope, you should consider something like the above in order to match the gains of the amp properly to avoid distortion at higher volume levels.
The class D stealth amp is stable using the 3ohm JBL speakers chosen but has a tendency to distort > Volume 46 from the Pioneer head unit as I measured on my RAV4 (Volume level 0-45 is clean stable using 1kHz & 50Hz 0dB test tones)

Questions!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


HPF/LPF is disabled/not used since I have the ST4.1200D parked in the glove compartment set for Full Pass on both channels as shown above.

Thru-out output of the ST4.1200D is 'tied' internally to the Front input mini-SPOX connector only and this is what I am feeding into the JBL Bass Pro. I actually have the Front left/right 2 pair from G4 of the head unit wired into the Rear mini-SPOX on the ST4.1200D and the Rear speakers from G4 terminating into the Front mini-SPOX. This allows the fader/balance control of the head unit to provide more volume from the sub when faded to the rear and less faded to the front.

JBL Bass Pro Hub installed is a snug fit and has @1inch clearance under cover/matt. Low bass freq are unaffected by being covered by the matt. Added much-needed bass freq that was lacking from the budget full range coaxials I had previously installed in all 4 doors and in the dash.

Ended up grabbing 12VDC straight from the convince outlet located in the boot to power the sub (uses an internal fairly small 200W class-D amp)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is the stock head unit good enough to power the JBL Club speakers without an amp (for better than stock / decent sound)?

Not really as further explained in the video linked above @13min mark.
Some type of separate amp is required in order to properly drive decent aftermarket speakers IMHO...


Having swapped all 6 speakers and added an amp to my 2019 RAV4 here are a couple of items to keep in mind during your install:

Until you get an amplifier the 2 pair front speakers at 3ohm each (2dash+2door) will appear as @1.5ohm to the factory head unit since they will be wired in parallel. I'm not sure how well the factory head unit will be able to handle this 1.5ohm load at full volume as I had added the external amp in order to drive all 4 door speakers minus the 2 dash which continue to be driven by the stock head unit.

You will find the pair of speaker wires feeding each of the 4 doors are on the short side and are meant to plug into the stock speakers from the outside of the door behind the panel. I had to actually pull/trim back the loom on all 4 doors to expose enough length of wire in order to feed the wire inside of the door to be able to terminate onto the replacement speakers since I didn't use any type of adapter/jumper cable and just spliced into the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks! The last time I did car audio was maybe 15 years ago when you had to run a fat gauge wire to the 12V battery to power the amp. Since the amp you purchased is so small do you have to run a wire through the firewall straight to the battery as well? Or is there another available power source to tap into? #caraudionoob


Power cable pigtail that was supplied with the ST4.1200D is only 16 gauge wire pictured above.

BNTECHGO 14 Gauge Flexible 2 Conductor Parallel Silicone Wire Spool Red Black High Resistant 200 deg C 600V for Single Color LED Strip Extension Cable Cord,Model,Lead Wire 20ft Stranded Copper Wire

Used the above linked 2 conductor silicone wire 14 gauge for the short run between glove box where amp is parked to passenger's side footwell where constant 12VDC is avail for passenger's side window fed by 30A fuse (amp is fused at 20A) behind the kick panel. The ST4.1200D requires no accessory turn on since it can detect via the head unit when audio signal is present and will turn itself ON automatically when RAV4 is turned ON and will shut off when vehicle is turned off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
How can I access the G4 Connector? I just want to add bass to my rav4, and will only be installing the Basspro Hub. I don´t want to disassemble door panels and fish cables. I think I would prefer just to splice the 3&8 and 4&9 cables on the G4 Connector (if I´m not wrong), and run them thru side edge plastic covers.

Did you obtain the signal for the Basspro hub from the Rear Door Speakers, or Front Door Speakers?

Did you needed to connect the remote blue cable? If I´m not wrong, I should not be needing to connect this cable if I´m using high level input.

I know Im asking a lot, but since you have the G4 plug in your glove compartment, can you please tell me the colors of the appropriate cables?

I will really appreciate your help, and any knowledge and info you can bring to my project.
Bassprohub is being fed RL+RR via the ST4.1200D thru-out which originates from pins 3+8(RL) 4+9(RR) of G4 connector of the stock Pioneer head unit. Keep in mind these wires are aluminum conductor so you will be unable to solder these.

Yes, you will need 12VDC on the blue remote wire in order to turn on the sub. I just connected this to the 12VDC accessory outlet located in the boot *rear that also provides power to the sub since this turns on with ignition power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you very much for your help. Just one last question. How can I access the G4 connector? Thru the glove compartment?
G4 is the black connector attached to the radio that the audio signals pass thru to speakers on the 6-speaker non-JBL RAV4
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Thanks man.

I have another retarded question.

I need to identify the rear speaker wires (want add a subwoofer).. Looking at your diagram i need wires 3/8 and 4/9..

Question regarding the connector that is shown in the bottom left corner of the wiring diagram you kindly provided..what side of the connector is shown in the diagram? Front side that goes into the head unit or the rear one that has insulated wires coming outof it?

Thanks again. Appreciate your help. Youre making this project possible for me lol


Pins 5 & 10 are unused on that connector. So it pinouts 1,2,3,4 (TOP) and 6,7,8,9 (BOTTOM) left to right of connector with wires that plugs into the head unit
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
now, the big question. Is there a harness for the G4 head unit we can buy to avoid cutting wires. So i can connect to amp and then connect the same factory wires of speakers to the amp without running more speakers. Another important question. You have six speakers, how did you connect them to 4 channels amp? I need 6 channel amp with dsp.
If you look at the schematic in my signature, the stock Pioneer head unit @20W amp continues to drive the 2 dash tweeters in addition to feeding high level amp inputs front/rear.
The 4 door speakers are now driven by the external amp. Sub is driven by the amp. There may be a aftermarket connector for G4 which carries all 8 audio speaker signals leaving the head unit but I haven't looked recently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
If anyone finds an aftermarket connector for G4 let me know please. I searched and gave up and just bought some of the lever nuts that somms mentioned.
90980-12C39

Part# for G4 audio connector linked above. You would still need to score the pins required but you could then build your own replacement connector if you wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks everyone for the awesome information in this thread.

Keen for any advice you might have for me. Looking to do a quick and dirty upgrade to the dash and front speakers.

For the dash:

Code:
Kicker CSC354 3.5" 90W Car Speakers
Speaker Design     2 - way
Woofer Size | in [mm]     3 1/2 [89]
Tweeter Size | in [mm]     1/2 [13]
DC Resistance | ohm     3.2
Peak Power | Watts     90
Continuous Power | Watts, RMS     30
Sensitivity [SPLo] | dB @ 1W, 1m     88
Effective Frequency Range | Hz     80-20k
Mounting Hole Diameter | in [mm]     3 [78]
Top Mount Depth | in [mm]     1/4 [6]
Bottom Mount Depth | in [mm]     1 11/16 [42]
Tweeter Protrusion | in [mm]     1/8 [3]
Grilles     No
Tweeter Magnet Material     Neodymium
Tweeter Dome Material     PEI [polyether imide]
Tweeter Design     Balanced dome
Woofer Cone Material     Polypropylene
Woofer Surround Material     Polyester foam
Link

Plus the harness @jon7chow found
(eBay For 2016-19 Toyota Tacoma Tweeter Dash, Front Speaker Harness Adapter (Pair))

And for the front speakers:
Code:
Infinity Reference 6522IX 6.5" 2-Way Car Speakers
60W RMS Power Handling
180W Peak Power Handling
53Hz - 21kHz Frequency Response
Link

Is there a harness for this? I've never installed a speaker before!
By replacing your stock front door with less sensitive and more power hungry aftermarket speakers that will continue to be driven by the same @20W RMS provided by the stock head unit, these replacement speakers may sound better to you at lower volume levels. Being under amplified they may actually sound weak at higher volume levels though.

Would have to recommend some type of aftermarket amplifier in order to properly drive those Infinity door speakers IMHO!(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
what about the speakers in the both front doors?? They have the same color (white and gray) both the same color. And those colors are in your picture in the G4 connectors? Can you tell us what T harness you used?? Thanks
I used no harness. I severed all 8 wires leaving the G4 connector that carries the audio signals to the speakers and used this connector in order to feed the external amp inputs.

If you look at the schematic in my signature, the FR & FL from G4 normally feed both dash and front door speakers. The color coding of the wiring changes between G4 and where it terminates into the speakers. I have no idea what the color coding is as I used physical pinouts from the schematic verified with digital multimeter and oscilloscope the correct wires for speakers as well as polarity. The audio pair leaving G4 that terminates at front dash speakers is the only existing wiring that I continued to use. I choose to run copper speed wire to the 4 door speakers instead of reusing the aluminum conductor factory wiring for the 4 door speakers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I will keep you posted once the back door speakers are installed.
Looking sharp!(y)

Any plans for the pair of tweeters that you got with the 6.5" midranges?

If I had $250 burning a hole in my pocket I would consider the DSR1 for a DSP configured in standalone mode...
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
The door speakers require drilling out rivets etc so can't go back easily.
FWIW: The rivets on the 4 doors of my RAV4 didn't require drilling in order to remove. Was able to pop them out fairly easy with a pair of cutters...;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·


Much needed cheap DSP added into the mix. 4 door speakers + BassPro Sub now being driven by the DSR1 using rear speaker inputs from G4 of head unit.
Dash speakers continue to be driven from head unit and does not pass thru DSP. Finished tuning the DSP and for @$200 makes a world of difference for SQ!(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
This makes me think that it's not likely to be an intermittent speaker wire connection, especially considering that I am using a harness adapter to connect my speakers to the wire from the head unit.
If this wasn't occuring prior to your speaker swap there is a very good chance your speakers may be defective or possibly overdriven by the 20W RMS head unit.

Does this happen when your equalizer in your head unit is set to flat, ie no BASS or MID turned up!?
 
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