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Just put them on. Took 20 min at most. The infinity ref 3022 speakers weigh so much more than the stock. They sound is very clear. I don't pump music too loud so I figure this should do before I decide to upgrade all speakers. I opted to replace the dash speakers first because it was the simplest and seemed like it would get the most benefit as it's closest to my head. I bought adapters off eBay so it's all plug and play.
The stock speakers feel like a kids toy. Hard to quantify the change but the sound is noticeably better.
Can you provide a link to the adapters off ebay? I just bought a pair of JBL GTO629 and will likely do my installation later this month. Also, did you install an amplifier? If so, which one did you go with?
 

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Absolutely. Most good quality auto speakers are 4ohms (yes some dip lower but keep in mind it is frequency dependent). So two in parallel is 2 ohms (or a bit lower) so a high quality 2ohm (or lower) stable amp is your best bet.
I replaced my dash and front doors with 3 ohm speakers (kept the rear doors untouched which are stock 4 ohm). What's the best solution to this? I haven't installed an amp yet but will in the future
 

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Does anyone know the frequencies each speaker receives? I'm planning to install a component set in the front and don't want to connect it to an input that is not full range. I suspect the woofers will have a wider range but just want to make sure.
 

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@somms How do you like the Soundstream ST4.1200D. Was thinking of using the same amp to power the 6 speakers: 4x Kenwood KFC 1796PS for doors and 2x Kenwood X3C for the dash. These need 75-100RMS power to run really nice and the Soundstream ST4.1200D has the exact specs needed to drive these speakers. Looking at TocoTunes 2018+ Toyota Camry Add A Subwoofer Harness – PLUG n PLAY To run the lines from the head unit to the rear where the battery is located.
How would this camry harness plug n play work? If you plug the harness into the HU to the amp, don't you still need to run wires from the amp to each speaker (or cut OEM harness and attach wires from the amp to the wire you cut that runs to each speaker)?
 

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I'm curious as to how much of the panels you had to remove to run wires from the headunit. I saw this video of an amp install on a 2016 corolla and was wondering if you removed this much. The video is timestamped at the spot.

 

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My budget upgrade 'light' is less than half of what was installed in that video you linked. Although I think my RAV4 sounds much better than prior especially with the addition of the DSP now.

I only removed the head unit to get to G4 connector as well as removing the glove box. I eventually ran power, remote turn on from DSP and pair of sub outputs from DSP to the JBL sub attached to the spare tire which consisted of removing more kick panels than I care to repeat again anytime soon!:rolleyes:
That's good to hear since I'd be concerned about messing with the airbags if I removed that much!
 

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Since the G9 DCM module is designed to output high-level audio to only both dash and front door right-hand speakers according to the schematic, if you wished to retain this feature you would have to 'splice' in the amp after the output of the DCM just prior to feeding both right-hand dash + front door speakers.

Main reason why I choose to leave the front dash speakers out of the aftermarket audio path is to retain the DCM audio on the right dash speaker only. If either my aftermarket amp or dsp were to fail in the future the factory head unit will continue to at least work thru the 2 dash speakers as a minimum. Also, it would have required at least a 6 channel amp or two 4 chan + 2 chan amps if I wanted to amplify all 6 existing speakers. Just seemed easiest to me. My current audio config with FL + FR bypassing both the amp and dsp I am able to 'fade out' slightly the 2 dash speakers via the factory head unit to produce better overall sound thru the time-aligned and tweaked EQ output of the DSR1 DSP...
So if I want to keep the DCM function, I need to cut the wires exiting the G9 before it splits (so relatively close to the HU) ?
 

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No, if you were going to cut the wire, you would want to do so after the split. The aim here is to isolate the dash speaker, which you cannot do until the split occurs. Following Gnochi's post:

you can use these adapters as your "cuttable" wire (or you can just attach a connector to the end of them, whatever you want really) and then you would wire it back to the amp, then from the amp to the speaker.

Good point about the harness adapter Gnochi, I am using those adapters and totally didn't realize I should use them to avoid having to cut any stock wiring.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding the diagram. I currently have those dash speaker adapters connected to 3.5 coaxials but I want to replace it with a component set. Will the following method work to keep the DCM function intact while providing full range signal to the new crossover:

1. I'll be placing the crossover near the kick panel to both protect it from the elements and hopefully not worry about running wires through the rubber door boot.
2. I'll cut the woofer wire just before it enters the boot (leading into the door) and attach it to the crossover input.
3. The other half of the wire I'll attach it to the woofer section of the crossover.
4. This is the part I want to confirm after looking over the diagram again. I have to find where the split occurs near the HU for the tweeter and woofer. Then cut the tweeter wire JUST AFTER the split (and before the DCM) and extend that wire to attach it to the tweeter section of the crossover.
5. I have no electrical experience so please correct me if I'm wrong, but the other side of the tweeter wire I cut (just after the split near the HU) will be exposed. Do I just tie up the + and - terminal and cap it off?
6. At this point the component set is installed and all speakers should be playing. As for installing the amplifier, I cut all 4 channels near the HU (before any splits happens) and run it into my amplifier speaker level input. Then run the amplified sound back to where I made the cut to provide the amplified signal to the 4 channels.

I'm curious if there would be any issue with this plan. The component set is 90W RMS and I will just use stock toyota wiring. Any new wire I add to increase length will be 16 gauge OFC but I don't want to rewire the entire setup and am trying to avoid running wires through the boot if possible. Let me know if that process makes sense or not. I can probably draw something out if it is confusing.


Edit: Where is the DCM and how big is it? Is it near the headunit, or the right tweeter or somewhere inbetween?
 

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My bad, I realized I had forgotten that the front right dash and front right door are coming from the same line on g4....this complicated things, and I think you had the correct line of thought.
I initially wrote before the split and then wrote after the split, but I guess I wasn't being specific on the purpose. I'll end up cutting before the split for amplification purposes and and after the split (and before DCM on right side) for component wiring purposes.
 

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If I'm following you here, you'll be passing an amplified signal through the DCM then, right? Thus far, we don't know what happens if you send an amplified signal through the DCM module, so it may be best to try to split after the DCM module.
I've thought about this a lot and am thinking it might be impossible to avoid sending an amplified signal through the DCM if I want a component set. I made a little diagram (see link) about my thought process. It is all based on the first picture which I'm assuming how the stock wiring is, so if that is flawed then my entire thought process will be flawed.

On a side note, can someone confirm if it is ok to tie the + and - ends together for the cut tweeter wire that still gets signal but is not connected to anything? I depicted it in pictures 3 and 4 by a blueblob.

 

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1. Running ~7A RMS through at best a 7.5A fuse is not the best idea long-term. As such, I think the redwolf harness adapter and tacotune harness in combination is the best idea, and I’ll be designing my own system around that.

2. JBL system almost certainly has the DCM wired in pre-amp.
My amp's continuous power is rated at 75W @ 4ohm @ 14.4V and [email protected] 2ohm @ 14.4 V. I'll be installing a component set that will draw 90W RMS total @ 3ohms. I'm assuming the tweeter will draw 45W RMS or less since the woofer will eat most of the power.

I'll be running roughly 3-3.5A to the tweeter (45W/14.4V). Would that be fine? Correct me if I'm wrong, but a crossover will wire the tweeter+woofer in parallel making the voltage constant between the two speakers?

If I can't figure out if I can or cannot send amplified power through the DCM, I guess I would just wire up the component set and let the tweeters run off the headunit.
 

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Your second image is accurate.

At the right dash speaker, there’s a connector that on one side accepts the signal - passthrough or otherwise - from the DCM, and on the other side sends that signal to dash and door speakers.
I made an updated diagram based on that. I'm curious if there will still be potential problems with the DCM with this setup and if it is still recommended to refrain from doing this.



Depends how you set up the system! You could leave the dash and door tied together, and use a crossover of some kind after the amp. (Note: this is my plan, putting a midrange/tweeter in the dash and woofer/tweeter in the door with a high pass for the dash.)
Are you using all coaxials for front door and dash? I currently have an aftermarket 3.5'' coaxial in the dash and was recommended to go with a component set for better sound quality. I'm curious if your setup would work the same with adding a high pass.
 

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I just emailed tacotunes customer service to see if they know anything about the DCM's ampacity. If they do, and it can handle the amp signal, I'll be buying a harness adapter from them so I hope they respond!
I feel like I'm not fully understanding the importance of the harness adapter. I plan on identifying the speaker wires coming out of the headunit and cutting in the appropriate places as shown on my diagram. Does it do anything extra that I can't do with a crimping tool, butte connectors, and a bundle of speaker wire?
 

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I’m still considering options pretty much across the board, but I’m looking at the Pioneer GM-DX975 amplifier and Infinity Primus 1270B sub. For the dash I’m looking at the Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C due to the more midrange focus, and the Focal Integration ISS 165 for all 4 doors.
Do you have non-JBL version? I'm wondering why you'd buy two component sets? That's a nice looking subwoofer! I was planning on getting a pioneer 12'' shallow mount but might have to consider that Infinity sub. They're both similar prices.



You totally can cut and crimp as needed. I like being able to go back to stock if I need to (or for resale, or...) and I dislike re-running entire harnesses to do so. I really dislike having to crimp and heatshrink when there’s no space to work with.
Hmm maybe I'm underestimating how much room is back there. I just don't want to shell out another $50 since I'm already over budget haha
 

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Above regarding Camry may be relevant. Further confirmation typically dash + door Toyota speakers are wired in parallel at @1.:28 Although no mention of DCM...
Hmm I wasn't aware they're wired in parallel. That complicates things on my original plan. I might just have to open it up and see how the wiring is this weekend.

Yeah, looks like that video is for the 2012-2017 camry, which I'm doubtful has a DCM. I found some subaru forum's thread where they were having issues dealing with the DCM in those vehicles as well, where it would essentially call the authorities if you wired an aftermarket speaker system in, unless you install an device from Audiocontrol that tricks the DCM into thinking it's still attached to the original speakers, lol. I wonder if we detached out FR dash speaker from the system if our cars would also consider it an emergency?

Anybody perform a FR dash splice yet that takes it out of direct line from the DCM?
Damn this is making me think to just leave everything alone and not try to mess with it, since this is my first self-install. Was planning to order everything this weekend :/
 
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