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Discussion Starter #281
Not sure why folks bother with time and effort to source these odd toyota speaker connectors. It is just so easy to crimp a couple of spade connectors onto the existing speaker wire since this is what 99% of aftermarket speakers normally require. Guess people want to retain these stock connectors if they ever wish to fallback to using the old speakers someday in the distant future? I would never hang onto them and had no hesitation on trashing the OEM speakers the same day I installed their replacements. There was zero chance I would ever want to reinstall those very cheaply made 20W Pioneers that probably cost @$1.50each to mass produce...
 

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2020 Rav4 Hybrid XLE + Cold Weather, Ruby Flare Pearl
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Not sure why folks bother with time and effort to source these odd toyota speaker connectors. It is just so easy to crimp a couple of spade connectors onto the existing speaker wire since this is what 99% of aftermarket speakers normally require. Guess people want to retain these stock connectors if they ever wish to fallback to using the old speakers someday in the distant future? I would never hang onto them and had no hesitation on trashing the OEM speakers the same day I installed their replacements. There was zero chance I would ever want to reinstall those very cheaply made 20W Pioneers that probably cost @$1.50each to mass produce...
In my case, if I decide not to buy the lease, there’s no chance I’m giving them back a nice stereo system.
 

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2019 RAV4 Hybrid XLE Blue
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So just cut the stock wires long enough to reconnect later. @somms is right. It takes 2 min to wire in new wires, but did not like wiring in the dash. Way to little space and wire to work with.

Now if I get them free from Crutchfield, that’s another story, but they are not moving quickly on spec’ing out our vehicle.
 

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Not from Metra. Crutchfield still doesn’t even have full install spec for the car.

Should also be noted: The (+) and (-) seem to be flipped from previous vehicles. I got harnesses for a Toyota Camry 2018 and the connections are opposite the RAV.
Did the stock male connector not mate up properly with the aftermarket female connector, or was it just that the wiring that was reversed? I’m thinking that it might be possible to purchase the 2018+ Camry harnesses and just cut and swap the spade terminals on the Camry harness to match speaker polarity.
 

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@Mpedara429 The Camry 2018+ is a completely different connector. I don't know where I saw it but thought they might be the same. I would get free from Crutchfield so I put in 2018+ Camry as my vehicle (instead of the RAV4 - no metra adapters available). Yes you could cut the spade connector wires off and use those. I used the Kenwood connector wires instead. Most speakers come with spade connector leads to cut and splice into the factory wiring.

Could someone post a picture of the DCM pin out diagram? I want to feed the FR speaker output of the DCM to my amplifier. Also has anyone done this yet? Subaru owners have reported a fault being detected because the DCM needs to sense the speaker load so a 4 ohm dummy resistor prior to the amp is needed to prevent the fault detection.
 

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Discussion Starter #286
Could someone post a picture of the DCM pin out diagram? I want to feed the FR speaker output of the DCM to my amplifier.


This info is show in the block diagram I posted the very 1st post of this thread. Speaker Out +/- leaves DCM via pins 5&6 of G9 connector.

Not sure why you would want to grab this audio here instead of where SPO terminates into dash speaker connector you have already cut off!?:unsure:

BTW: SPI from head unit is fed into this same connector via pins 2&3 according to the diagram...
 

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Pins 1 and 3 of the right dash bundle go to the door, pins 2 and 4 are inputs to the tweeter
I was looking at your post and @kp93 's pictures and am wondering if I swapped the leads (+) (-) when I tied them together. From the trigger to separate the connector I counted 1+2 (+) and 3+4(-). The picture in @kp93 was unclear what side the trigger was on the RedWolf connector.

EDIT: I numbered my terminals wrong (Reversed) should be 4+3(+) and 2+1(-) See Pinout diagram below @somms post#289
 

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Not sure why you would want to grab this audio here instead of where SPO terminates into dash speaker connector you have already cut off!?:unsure:
It will be easier to fish new lines from the DCM to the rest of the leads from the Head Unit connecting back to the amp and vice versa when the 9 wire is pulled to behind head from amp. This way I don't have to fish two sets of new lines from behnd HU to RF Dash.

Thank you for the diagram!
 

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Discussion Starter #289
I was looking at your post and @kp93 's pictures and am wondering if I swapped the leads (+) (-) when I tied them together. From the trigger to separate the connector I counted 1+2 (+) and 3+4(-). The picture in @kp93 was unclear what side the trigger was on the RedWolf connector.

 

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So I got it right. I just numbered them wrong. This makes sense: your 3 lines up with the resistor(Hi-pass) feed to the speaker and that's what I used as a reference. See Picts:
150520

150521
 

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This is where I got confused, because it looks like the trigger side of the connector in his (@kp93) fingers look like they are Black (Not Red)
150522
 

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Discussion Starter #292
Subaru owners have reported a fault being detected because the DCM needs to sense the speaker load so a 4 ohm dummy resistor prior to the amp is needed to prevent the fault detection.


Have you considered just dropping a small cheap speaker onto the SPO out of pin5&6 of G9 and having it sit or mount with velcro somewhere hidden out of the way in the center console? You would then amplify the FR & FL leaving G4 of the head unit w/o interfering with DCM. This additional speaker would be dedicated for DCM audio.

Only possible issue might be the DCM lacking the SPI into pin2&3 of G9. You could test this beforehand by disconnecting G4 from head unit then pressing the SOS button. If the DCM continues to output audio lacking this SPI input and throws out no error, you should be good to go! This would be the way I would configure if I choose to attempt to amplify both dash speakers...
 

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Only concern I have with your first approach is does the DCM need to phase sync with (and thus sense) the input signal from the HU or it will also throw a fault (as you suggested a test in your second statement). First I'm going to try from DCM to amplifier w/o the dummy load. If I need a dummy load I will buy some cheap resistors or tie in the tweeter near the amp. I want to be clean and power the tweeters but keep the system in tact (although I am coming due to pay Toyota's monthly charge for their service at the end of April and probably wont.) I just want to keep the warranty intact and not give them excuse not to fix my vehicle.

@somms In any case you have been an incredible help. Thank you.
 

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As I suspected the red and black wires are reversed (and are incorrect polarity) in the harness. Thus my confusion.

see @somms post #289
Hmm I didn't realize the adapter switched polarity. So to fix it, is the easiest method to just flip the connectors into the speaker (black wires into + and red wires into -)?
 

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@kp93 Thats what I would do. Those harnesses would have been nice for my install. Man is it tight at that windshield corner. PIA!
 

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Amp has been mounted. Tomorrow I run lines and splice into the DCM out and the taco tunes harness connect lines and I should be good to go. Pics tomorrow. Hoping for no faults. Won’t be near as hard as new speakers all around last weekend. Looking forward to hearing the results.
 

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Amp has been mounted. Tomorrow I run lines and splice into the DCM out and the taco tunes harness connect lines and I should be good to go. Pics tomorrow. Hoping for no faults. Won’t be near as hard as new speakers all around last weekend. Looking forward to hearing the results.
What components are you going with for your build? (Speakers/amp/sub/wiring) Where did you mount the amp?
 

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Install complete for now. Still needs some adjustment to the gains for fronts and rears. Picture of the amp installed on the back for the passenger rear seat.
150650


Splice into taco tunes harness.
150651


Install notes:
  • Dissassembly of console to remove controls to get to the DCM.
    1. Pry up the controls around the shifter knob. Just held in by clips. Cannot completely remove. Just move around to remove other components
    2. Remove tray with USB. Disconnect wires.
    3. Remove bolt from trim panel on back side towards the arm rest. Pry up and remove complete trim.
    4. Pry remove and disconnect the controls with the big knobs.
    5. Pry remove and disconnect the ABS indicator with seat heater controls. Behind is the DCM.
    6. DCM can be disconnected and unbolted but you still have very little play to get the unit to rotate downward to access the back connections.
  • Disconnected the back connector and ran extension wires of the DCM out up towards the HU. There I connected to the input wires of the amp. The other side of the cut wires I connected to the RF grey wires going to the speaker.
  • Modification of the TocoTunes harness
    • Cut off 17ft wires for “add an amp” since new these would be redundant.
    • Cut the harness wires in the middle leaving the Grey pair intact. These still needed to feed the DCM. The other three pairs were mated to the amp wires (RCA leads) on the HU side and the other side of the cut harness the speaker wires coming from the amp. (See pic above)
  • To run lines behind the glove box I removed the 10MM bolt on bottoM next to the door and the three screws at the top when you open the glove box. This allows you to pull the bottom section of the dash and the glove compartment off. Beware: It cannot be completely removed becuase there is a bolt in the console I could not get to that holds the bottom left part of the glovebox/dash in place. I just pivoted away.
  • Run RCA’s, Speed wire(9-wire) and Amp base adjust line behind glovebox and zip tied way the wires. Have to play with the zip tie points as the glove box may not be able to close if you tie them in the wrong place.
  • Ran wires to back of the car by pulling off the door trim panels and the pilar panel. Tight fit but you have more room under carpet than in the factory channels taken up by the car wiring.
  • Lifted off back seat and ran wires up to side back of passenger side seat where amp in mounted.
  • Connected wires/RCA‘s and base adjust to amp.
  • Ran power to battery (in the rear of my hybrid) and hooked in with modified eye connectors(to make spades for easy disconnect). Also had a 80A fuse hooked inline with positive lead.
  • Turned on unit and adjusted.
So yesterday when I first turned it on I still had net reassembled the dash and console units. The stereo and the pass through with the DCM worked fine, but I threw a SRS airbag fault. I am thinking the car didn’t see something connected and threw the fault...probably the bottom dash airbag indicator control. But it could have also been the glovebox dash being pulled apart as well. After I put everything back together again I didn’t see the fault and the app now shows everything is normal so I think it’s been cleared.

Sound wise it is a huge improvement, although not yet overwhelmed as the Kenwood speakers are rated for 100W and easily soak up all of the power from the amp. I am having to continue to play with the gains for proper balance and sound. I will spend some time after I have listened to the system for a while. The sound is a bit weaker on the FR of the DCM so I have to compensate a bit with the fader/balance. The base adjust knob with the Pioneer Amp can be way overdone and creates a dull thud off base from the rears. I had better luck adjusting the base on the HU.

The DCM functions normally and does not have any faults as I had read with Subaru’s. The voice on the other side is loud and clear. Overall I am very happy with the install. Just took a lot more time than I expected as figuring out how to dismantle the console and dash took some figuring out. My notes above will help others in the future.
 
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