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Hi!
I want to install only sub and amp for it to 6 speaker system. For first fast test i took sinal from back door speakers and tryed to connect hi-low filter but it muted all speakers. Do anyone know the reason?

Other weird thing is that in paper front and back door speakers seems same, but back door speakers do not play bass at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #302
Hi!
I want to install only sub and amp for it to 6 speaker system. For first fast test i took sinal from back door speakers and tryed to connect hi-low filter but it muted all speakers. Do anyone know the reason?

Other weird thing is that in paper front and back door speakers seems same, but back door speakers do not play bass at all...
Weird. Definitely have bass RL&RR from the head unit and sounds much 'fuller' than prior now passing thru DSR1 DSP. I can also kill power to either DSP or amp w/o affecting sound from pair of dash speakers...
 

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Phase 1 is complete: All new speakers For the 6 locations. What an incredible difference so far. Can’t believe the crap Toyota puts in for “audio”. All locations were just cheap plastic garbage. Already the sound is so much better just being powered with just the head unit. My head is not the Pioneer. Instead it is a Fujutsu Ten unit. I did have to turn the head up to max to get the volume where I like, but impressed with just stock so far. The aftermarket speakers are not as sensitive as the stock. I did have to balance to almost completely to the rear to hear all speakers equally but even without digital signal processing the sound is so much better. I’m hoping to avoid DSP with my setup. Next weekend amp install.

Couple of install notes:
  • The dash wiring is extremely short if you cut off the connector. Using an adapter would be MUCH better. I tied the first two wires from the connector trigger (+) together with the (+) of the Kenwood KFC-X3C’s and the second two with the (-) .This kept the door speakers in parallel. Barely had enough room to work. PIA!
    • EDIT: I numbered my terminals wrong (Reversed) should be 4+3(+) and 2+1(-) See Pinout diagram below @somms post#289
  • Removal of the door covers:
    1. Pry front trim piece from door opener working from the inside(r) as you look at the handle to access screw behind. Remove screw.
    2. Pry off door handle cover working from the hand hold back (and up). The trim piece pivots on the elbow side so DO NOT start there. Only one screw in a deep socket on the bottom of the hand needs to be removed. There are two silver screws that can stay in place and do not need to be removed.
    3. Remove the window switch bu prying from back to front. Again the switch pivots on the front so DO NOT start there.
    4. Pry off door cover from back lower corner. The new clips are tough to pull out and several stayed in and pulled out of the cover. Had to pry those out separably with a sharp knife to get under the bottom most lip of clip to pry them up. Once removed the clips are easy to put back in door cover.
  • Connecting door speakers. Had to do a battery pop test on the factory speaker because the terminals on factory are the same size. The GREY or grey stripe is Negative while the WHITE(F) or White w/Tan(R) is the positive. If you are looking at the connector with clip down L- R+. I cut off the connector and wired in the speaker leads for the Kenwood KFC-1796PS‘s for the rear and the Kenwood KFC-1696PS‘s for the front.
Still cogitating on how to bypass the DCM. Thinking of leaving stock wiring through the DCM and taking the DCM outputs and feeding them to amplifier so that the DCM doesn’t throw any faults by being “out of phase” or not dectecting a signal from the head unit.

Gonna leave that for next weekend.
I grabbed the high level input from right before the FR dash speaker and used that for my DSP input. My setup is currently wired as such:
Ch1 - FL dash
Ch2 - FR dash (post-DCM)
Ch3 - Left doors (front and rear doors are wired in parallel)
Ch4 - Right doors (front and rear doors wired in parallel as well)

I have a noise floor that seems to be coming from my DSP. I've been too lazy to diagnose it properly.
 

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2019 RAV4 Hybrid XLE Blue
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I have a noise floor that seems to be coming from my DSP
I am happy enough with my clarity and volume coming directly from the head and through the amp that blow away my previous stock speakers. I will forgo getting a DSP since I am not expecting studio grade audio coming from my system. The stock HU does do a pretty good job now that I have coaxials powered @75-100W all around.
 

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Discussion Starter #305
I will forgo getting a DSP since I am not expecting studio grade audio coming from my system. The stock HU does do a pretty good job now that I have coaxials powered @75-100W all around.
Yeah, thats what I thought also since I had no DSP planned for in my original install. @6months later by simply adding the DSR1 into my system really surprised me with how profound the audible difference was once fully tuned and time-aligned even on my much less expensive install;)
 

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even on my much less expensive install;)
3 sets of speakers from Crutchfield:
1 x Kenwood KFC-1796PS - $85
1 x Kenwood KFC-1676PS - $75
1 x Kenwood KFC-X3C - $65

1 x Pioneer GM-DX874 - $135

1 Tacotunes Harness - $50

1 Speedwire (20ft) - $15

Misc connectors and other wiring (most rummaged) - ~$10

Total all in - $435
 

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Discussion Starter #312
What do you recommend converting high level input into line-levels?
Appears the advice given in that video was to attempt to use speaker-level inputs from the head unit into the low-level RCAs instead? Otherwise, I would probably use a different type of DSP if that was an option...
 

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Lifted off back seat and ran wires up to side back of passenger side seat where amp in mounted.
Is this required or just provides a cleaner look? Not sure yet if I'll mount the amp under the passenger seat or in the back, but my sub will definitely be in the back
 

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With the hybrid, the space under the seat is taken by the battery. I would bet there is adequate space to hide an amp with the non hybrid. I removed the seat (just held on by two loop clips in the front) so that I could easily run the wires. The seat cushion gets in the way of accessing the bottom openings to the door wire runs.
 

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I would bet there is adequate space to hide an amp with the non hybrid
Is there an easily accessible factory ground near the rear seat area? Any chance a shallow mount sub can fit under the seat too? I'd need like 6.5'' of height clearance.
 

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Possibly, but you would have to check. The battery is at least 6" high, but gas tank configurations are different so may have less room with the gas only version. Its easy to remove the bottom cushion. Just pull up on front on each side. takes a minute to remove and the seat cushion is really light. Was surprised.
 

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Possibly, but you would have to check. The battery is at least 6" high, but gas tank configurations are different so may have less room with the gas only version. Its easy to remove the bottom cushion. Just pull up on front on each side. takes a minute to remove and the seat cushion is really light. Was surprised.
Just tried to take the seat off but didn't want to pull too hard. Is it held down by clips? Do you have to do anything with the backrest part of the seat? I don't have any other panels or bolts removed at the moment.
 

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Seat backs have to be up but are not attached. You wont break it the clips are just tight. Just pull up on front. You can slip your hand in between to fnid where the clips are. just metal U's on the bottom of the cushion into slot clips.
 

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Seat backs have to be up but are not attached. You wont break it the clips are just tight. Just pull up on front. You can slip your hand in between to fnid where the clips are. just metal U's on the bottom of the cushion into slot clips.
So in the video somms just posted, I do not need to do the first step of removing the 6 clips in the back? I can just start at this part? Just making sure when you put the seat back in, does it just simply pop in with no other steps?
 
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