2019 RAV4 Hybrid XLE Blue
The clips in the trunk area are to remove the setbacks. Not the seat cushion. Just the 2 U clips on the front of the seat.
0:28 - 0:50 in the video.
0:28 - 0:50 in the video.
BNTECHGO 5 Pack 10 AWG Inline Fuse Holder for 40A ATC/ATO Blade Automotive Fuse
With the help of a friend, I was able to take off the back seat in my gas XLE. Unfortunately I did not see any significant room to hide an amp and certainly not a sub. Here are some pics.Possibly, but you would have to check. The battery is at least 6" high, but gas tank configurations are different so may have less room with the gas only version. Its easy to remove the bottom cushion. Just pull up on front on each side. takes a minute to remove and the seat cushion is really light. Was surprised.
Woah that's a crazy good build. I bet its the best sounding one on this thread. Total material cost?So “a budget exists” combined with “I did it myself” still counts for this thread, yes? Because I’m about halfway through acquiring components for an active vertically bi-amped setup plus subwoofer and amplifier, with all speakers going “ribbit.”
Active horizontal bi-amping (amplifier for tweeters, amplifier for woofers) is good for getting efficiency out of your amplifier sizing, since tweeters and mids take so much less power than woofers, but you need to get much better amplifiers because channel separation becomes critical for a good sound stage. You need much bigger amplifiers if you vertically bi-amp (amplifier for left, amplifier for right) but the soundstage becomes ridiculous with even moderate channel isolation, since you’re never mixing left and right and harmonic distortion is easier to control and included in CEA2006 compliance.
- A pillar trim from the JBL trims, modified to mount GS10 tweeters
- GS25 mid ranges are drop-in in the dash
- GS60 front door woofers will require a custom adapter ring to avoid the grille
- GS40 for rear fill (no rear passengers) or wideband (with rear passengers)
- I picked up a GS12D2 (discontinued) in a box for cheap off eBay
- Left side and right side are each powered by a Pioneer GM-D8704
- Subwoofer is powered by a Pioneer GM-D8701
- System managed by a miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 v2.0
- Total system draw at maximum volume and maximum power is about 99A, which cant be maintained for the hybrid, but I’ll never run it that loud because I like working ears. Lower volume will be much more reasonable - on the order of like 25A.
I had the opportunity before California shut down to compare the Audiofrog GS components with Morel Maximo Ultra and Tempo Ultra component sets (and a bunch of Focal (too harsh) and Hertz (too distorted) options) in person, and I just liked the Audiofrogs so much more in a blind test, and the cost difference is pretty small once you’re looking at a system with time alignment. I then got the significant other to agree that a change was absolutely necessary by playing a couple of her favorite songs on the stock system...
Finally, if you want to enjoy your sound system as-is, I strongly recommend that you do NOT go down the rabbit hole of Car Audio Fabrications on YouTube. If you want inspiration for all sorts of neat stealthy or sexy tricks, I recommend the opposite.
For the LF,RR andLR sets of wires you can do as you suggested and cut the TT harness, but for the RF speaker circuit it goes to the DCM and then the speakers so in order to maintain the DCM function you would have to splice into the RF speaker out at the DCM. See post 286 and 300.and would that preserve the dcm functions and not overload it?
Thanks! This is my first time dealing with DCM and am trying to wrap my mind around post 286 and 300.For the LF,RR andLR sets of wires you can do as you suggested and cut the TT harness, but for the RF speaker circuit it goes to the DCM and then the speakers so in order to maintain the DCM function you would have to splice into the RF speaker out at the DCM. See post 286 and 300.
~$2400, since I had a lot of the stuff already. Steeper than planned, but should be very worWoah that's a crazy good build. I bet its the best sounding one on this thread. Total material cost?
Curious about the jbl a piller. Did you have any issue with the airbag being in the way or concern it will malfunction/go off? Personally, I don't want to risk messing with the a-pillar but just curious.
They really do. They’re competitive with stuff twice the price, too, and they’re so clear.Ouch! Those audio frogs better sound great @$250/pair.
That’s the goal! Undo literally everything the head unit tries to do 😁C-DSP 8x12 sure looks like a decent DSP choice. I think you will be surprised at how much it will be able to improve the sound out of the mediocre factory head unit!
Power capacitors really aren’t worth it for anything but a purpose-built SPL rig. They’re good for if you need an immense amount of sound for a very short duration, and don’t mind waiting for them to recharge - note that capacitors lose voltage very quickly relative to batteries, so their useful life is even shorter than you might think. They’re completely useless for sustained performance. Before even looking at capacitors for any system, you should upgrade your alternator, battery, and wiring, and you should still keep in mind that they’re only useful for the occasional subwoofer frenzy.Do you guys put additional capacitors to your setup? wondering how small the aux battery for hybrid.