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2019 RAV4 Hybrid XLE Blue
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The clips in the trunk area are to remove the setbacks. Not the seat cushion. Just the 2 U clips on the front of the seat.

0:28 - 0:50 in the video.
 

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Discussion Starter #323
@somms Did you share the 12 V power input for both your amp and DSP?
BNTECHGO 5 Pack 10 AWG Inline Fuse Holder for 40A ATC/ATO Blade Automotive Fuse
BNTECHGO 10 Gauge Silicone Wire Red 20 ft Ultra Flexible 10 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire
BNTECHGO 10 Gauge Silicone Wire Black 20 ft Ultra Flexible 10 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire
Wago 221-612 Lever-Nuts 10AWG 2 Conductor Compact Wire Connectors 50 PK
Wago 221-613 LEVER-NUTS 10AWG 3 Conductor Compact Wire Connectors 30 PK

Yes, originating from B+ terminal under the hood using the all silicone (super flexible) 10AWG cable linked above connected via Wago brand lever-nuts (no soldering) feeding thru fuse pigtail running to DSP, AMP and powered sub in the boot. BTW: 10AWG fuse pigtail is the same silicone 10AWG
 

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Possibly, but you would have to check. The battery is at least 6" high, but gas tank configurations are different so may have less room with the gas only version. Its easy to remove the bottom cushion. Just pull up on front on each side. takes a minute to remove and the seat cushion is really light. Was surprised.
With the help of a friend, I was able to take off the back seat in my gas XLE. Unfortunately I did not see any significant room to hide an amp and certainly not a sub. Here are some pics.
 

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Filled it up with gas tank. That’s a shame. Could also think about the space where the battery for the hybrid (not the hybrid battery) would go. (back right corner) there should be a well that is probably big enough. Just pull off the cover from the top in the indented storage space after you pull out your spare cover.
 

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I wonder what Toyota planned for this indent in the seat cushion. Looks like they had planned for wire runs as well.

150793
 

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2020 Rav4 Hybrid XLE + Cold Weather, Ruby Flare Pearl
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So “a budget exists” combined with “I did it myself” still counts for this thread, yes? Because I’m about halfway through acquiring components for an active vertically bi-amped setup plus subwoofer and amplifier, with all speakers going “ribbit.”
  • A pillar trim from the JBL trims, modified to mount GS10 tweeters
  • GS25 mid ranges are drop-in in the dash
  • GS60 front door woofers will require a custom adapter ring to avoid the grille
  • GS40 for rear fill (no rear passengers) or wideband (with rear passengers)
  • I picked up a GS12D2 (discontinued) in a box for cheap off eBay
  • Left side and right side are each powered by a Pioneer GM-D8704
  • Subwoofer is powered by a Pioneer GM-D8701
  • System managed by a miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 v2.0
  • Total system draw at maximum volume and maximum power is about 99A, which cant be maintained for the hybrid, but I’ll never run it that loud because I like working ears. Lower volume will be much more reasonable - on the order of like 25A.
Active horizontal bi-amping (amplifier for tweeters, amplifier for woofers) is good for getting efficiency out of your amplifier sizing, since tweeters and mids take so much less power than woofers, but you need to get much better amplifiers because channel separation becomes critical for a good sound stage. You need much bigger amplifiers if you vertically bi-amp (amplifier for left, amplifier for right) but the soundstage becomes ridiculous with even moderate channel isolation, since you’re never mixing left and right and harmonic distortion is easier to control and included in CEA2006 compliance.

I had the opportunity before California shut down to compare the Audiofrog GS components with Morel Maximo Ultra and Tempo Ultra component sets (and a bunch of Focal (too harsh) and Hertz (too distorted) options) in person, and I just liked the Audiofrogs so much more in a blind test, and the cost difference is pretty small once you’re looking at a system with time alignment. I then got the significant other to agree that a change was absolutely necessary by playing a couple of her favorite songs on the stock system...

Finally, if you want to enjoy your sound system as-is, I strongly recommend that you do NOT go down the rabbit hole of Car Audio Fabrications on YouTube. If you want inspiration for all sorts of neat stealthy or sexy tricks, I recommend the opposite.
 

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So “a budget exists” combined with “I did it myself” still counts for this thread, yes? Because I’m about halfway through acquiring components for an active vertically bi-amped setup plus subwoofer and amplifier, with all speakers going “ribbit.”
  • A pillar trim from the JBL trims, modified to mount GS10 tweeters
  • GS25 mid ranges are drop-in in the dash
  • GS60 front door woofers will require a custom adapter ring to avoid the grille
  • GS40 for rear fill (no rear passengers) or wideband (with rear passengers)
  • I picked up a GS12D2 (discontinued) in a box for cheap off eBay
  • Left side and right side are each powered by a Pioneer GM-D8704
  • Subwoofer is powered by a Pioneer GM-D8701
  • System managed by a miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 v2.0
  • Total system draw at maximum volume and maximum power is about 99A, which cant be maintained for the hybrid, but I’ll never run it that loud because I like working ears. Lower volume will be much more reasonable - on the order of like 25A.
Active horizontal bi-amping (amplifier for tweeters, amplifier for woofers) is good for getting efficiency out of your amplifier sizing, since tweeters and mids take so much less power than woofers, but you need to get much better amplifiers because channel separation becomes critical for a good sound stage. You need much bigger amplifiers if you vertically bi-amp (amplifier for left, amplifier for right) but the soundstage becomes ridiculous with even moderate channel isolation, since you’re never mixing left and right and harmonic distortion is easier to control and included in CEA2006 compliance.

I had the opportunity before California shut down to compare the Audiofrog GS components with Morel Maximo Ultra and Tempo Ultra component sets (and a bunch of Focal (too harsh) and Hertz (too distorted) options) in person, and I just liked the Audiofrogs so much more in a blind test, and the cost difference is pretty small once you’re looking at a system with time alignment. I then got the significant other to agree that a change was absolutely necessary by playing a couple of her favorite songs on the stock system...

Finally, if you want to enjoy your sound system as-is, I strongly recommend that you do NOT go down the rabbit hole of Car Audio Fabrications on YouTube. If you want inspiration for all sorts of neat stealthy or sexy tricks, I recommend the opposite.
Woah that's a crazy good build. I bet its the best sounding one on this thread. Total material cost?

Curious about the jbl a piller. Did you have any issue with the airbag being in the way or concern it will malfunction/go off? Personally, I don't want to risk messing with the a-pillar but just curious.
 

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Questions about the tacotunes harness and an amp.

Can I cut the tacotunes harness and run the head unit side to an amp then run the amp to the speaker side to utilize the stock wires?

and would that preserve the dcm functions and not overload it?
 

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and would that preserve the dcm functions and not overload it?
For the LF,RR andLR sets of wires you can do as you suggested and cut the TT harness, but for the RF speaker circuit it goes to the DCM and then the speakers so in order to maintain the DCM function you would have to splice into the RF speaker out at the DCM. See post 286 and 300.
 

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For the LF,RR andLR sets of wires you can do as you suggested and cut the TT harness, but for the RF speaker circuit it goes to the DCM and then the speakers so in order to maintain the DCM function you would have to splice into the RF speaker out at the DCM. See post 286 and 300.
Thanks! This is my first time dealing with DCM and am trying to wrap my mind around post 286 and 300.

Am I correct in saying those posts run the RF wires out from the DCM to the amp and then to the RF door speaker?

and the RF dash is powered from the head unit?
 

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I spliced into those two wires: DCM side to amp and other side from amp to speakers. Does seem from my instal that there is some signal loss across the DCM since I do need to balance to the right to get equal sound from L and R in drivers seat.

Yes the RF circuit powers both door and dash in parallel.
 

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One more question. I have the 2020 Rav4 Hybrid LE non-jbl do I even have a DCM?

There is no Connected Services by Toyota Audio for my model.
 

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2020 Rav4 Hybrid XLE + Cold Weather, Ruby Flare Pearl
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Woah that's a crazy good build. I bet its the best sounding one on this thread. Total material cost?

Curious about the jbl a piller. Did you have any issue with the airbag being in the way or concern it will malfunction/go off? Personally, I don't want to risk messing with the a-pillar but just curious.
~$2400, since I had a lot of the stuff already. Steeper than planned, but should be very wor

As far as the a pillar trim is concerned, I wrote this on reddit a couple days ago. But it’s a factory part and the majority of it is the same as the non-JBL, including the ability for the trim to pop away from the a pillar itself. I’ll also be flush-mounting the tweeters.


Ouch! Those audio frogs better sound great @$250/pair.
They really do. They’re competitive with stuff twice the price, too, and they’re so clear.

C-DSP 8x12 sure looks like a decent DSP choice. I think you will be surprised at how much it will be able to improve the sound out of the mediocre factory head unit!(y)
That’s the goal! Undo literally everything the head unit tries to do 😁
 

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TL;DR - power capacitors aren’t useful for almost anyone, Rav4 hybrids don’t have good options for increasing available 12V system power, and putting a limit on volume is the best way to prevent a repair that costs more than your audio system.
~~~
Do you guys put additional capacitors to your setup? wondering how small the aux battery for hybrid.
Power capacitors really aren’t worth it for anything but a purpose-built SPL rig. They’re good for if you need an immense amount of sound for a very short duration, and don’t mind waiting for them to recharge - note that capacitors lose voltage very quickly relative to batteries, so their useful life is even shorter than you might think. They’re completely useless for sustained performance. Before even looking at capacitors for any system, you should upgrade your alternator, battery, and wiring, and you should still keep in mind that they’re only useful for the occasional subwoofer frenzy.

(Note that capacitors are perfectly reasonable as components in filters, power conversion, and plenty of other things that aren’t just hooking them up to your 12V system to supply power.)

From what I can tell, Rav4 hybrids have a hard limit of about 100A that you can pull from the system without draining the low voltage battery - and this includes the power required for pretty much everything but driving and the AC system. This limit is set by the capability of the DCDC portion of the Inverter-Converter unit in the engine bay. Drawing more power than that, when it can’t be covered by the 12V battery, could damage said I-C, which is one of the most expensive components in the car.

With a hybrid, there’s not a good way to add an alternator or a beefier DCDC into the system, so you have a couple options:
  • Find a large DCDC that steps down from 250V-ish to 14V-ish, find a way to cool it, figure out a way to switch it so you don’t constantly drain your HV battery, and don’t kill yourself connecting it all up to a system that doesn’t have a built-in way to accommodate it. This is not average hobbyist stuff, there are a lot of major safety concerns that fall under “unknown unknowns”, and the consequences of doing it wrong are at best a few thousand dollars in repairs and at worst your life. I strongly recommend against this.
  • Ensure the system cannot draw more than ~100A at peak volume, with typical loads more in the 30A range. A bit of draining of the 12V battery isn’t the end of the world but you don’t want to keep it in that state.
Professionally, I design high voltage battery systems for electric vehicles. I’m still going to be staying far away from that first option. And it’s not like 30A with any reasonable audio system isn’t plenty of volume for driving around.

I’m also designing a power meter into my system, and I’m going to set up my gains so I can’t get too loud, for a belt and suspenders approach.
 
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