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How to disconnect a Hybrid battery for amps installation? is there any need to consider before disconnecting the battery? I was planning to put a circuit breaker. pls help. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #342
How to disconnect a Hybrid battery for amps installation? is there any need to consider before disconnecting the battery? I was planning to put a circuit breaker. pls help. Thanks
I would lift the negative lead off the AGM prior to making the connection to B+ just to be on the safe side but no there is nothing special to be done prior to breaking the connection...
 

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I had upgraded the speakers in my hybrid 2020 rav4:
4X 6.5" Infinity reference REF6522IX
2X 3.5" Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX
1 X Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Subwoofer

Sound deadening: Noico 80 mil + Noico RED 150 mil sound inslation in all 4 doors.

Stock head unit, no amplifier.
Sound is amazing! plenty of base, clear highs and mid.
Before the upgrade, the sound was anemic, without any bass at all.
The sound was irritating and I couldn't stand it for more than few minutes.

Total costs: 410$ including taxes, free shipment from amazon.
 

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I had upgraded the speakers in my hybrid 2020 rav4:
4X 6.5" Infinity reference REF6522IX
2X 3.5" Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX
1 X Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Subwoofer

Sound deadening: Noico 80 mil + Noico RED 150 mil sound inslation in all 4 doors.

Stock head unit, no amplifier.
Sound is amazing! plenty of base, clear highs and mid.
Before the upgrade, the sound was anemic, without any bass at all.
The sound was irritating and I couldn't stand it for more than few minutes.

Total costs: 410$ including taxes, free shipment from amazon.
Can you please post a pic of how you mounted the sub?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Is there other way to connect for amp fuse connector to the battery positive without destroying the red cap in rav4 2020 hybrid xle? any pics please! thanks
 

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Is there other way to connect for amp fuse connector to the battery positive without destroying the red cap in rav4 2020 hybrid xle? any pics please! thanks
The cap is opening like an hinge to reveal the positive terminal. Do not try to remove the cap.
I released the nut from the terminal and connected the 12V wire from the sub with a cable terminal, and secured it with the nut.
 

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2020 XSE Silver/Black Hybrid
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has anyone upgraded their stock speakers having the 11 speaker system?
 

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Discussion Starter #349
has anyone upgraded their stock speakers having the 11 speaker system?
I believe a couple of folks have but the potential issue is the stock JBL speakers are extra-sensitive and depending on how power-hungry the replacement aftermarket speakers are they may seem to not have the same volume or be as 'loud' since they will continue to be driven by the dedicated JBL dsp/amp that has been optimized for the smaller wattage stock speakers...make sense!?
 

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I believe a couple of folks have but the potential issue is the stock JBL speakers are extra-sensitive and depending on how power-hungry the replacement aftermarket speakers are they may seem to not have the same volume or be as 'loud' since they will continue to be driven by the dedicated JBL dsp/amp that has been optimized for the smaller wattage stock speakers...make sense!?
based off of Smulik, its okay to swap the stock speakers with the Infinty without a separate amp and might sound better with the 11 speaker head unit vs the 7" stock one...just trying to see which speaker is worth upgrading when i have the stock 11 speakers already.
 

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How do you like the sub? If you've had larger subs in the back, how does this compare to a 10-12'' sub?
You can't compare a 12" sub with high volume enclosure and an amplifier to a very small powered sub. Having said that, there is more than enough bass for my taste. It adds the right kick without being overwhelming.
 

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The sub is mounted under the passenger seat. The remote control is routed thru the hole above the gear shift. View attachment 151080 View attachment 151081
Not sure if you are in an area with cold weather and have the heated seats option... The heated seats have the potential to affect clearance under the seat and I was curious if you fit the sub the sub under a regular seat or one with the heating module.
 

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I had upgraded the speakers in my hybrid 2020 rav4:
4X 6.5" Infinity reference REF6522IX
2X 3.5" Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX
1 X Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Subwoofer

Sound deadening: Noico 80 mil + Noico RED 150 mil sound inslation in all 4 doors.

Stock head unit, no amplifier.
Sound is amazing! plenty of base, clear highs and mid.
Before the upgrade, the sound was anemic, without any bass at all.
The sound was irritating and I couldn't stand it for more than few minutes.

Total costs: 410$ including taxes, free shipment from amazon.
How did you wire the powered sub to the stereo? Did you use the tacotunes harness? I’m interested in doing a setup similar to yours
 

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It’s pricy for what it is but the Tocotunes is a good harness for either splicing into to add a amplifier to all 4 speakers or sending the rear signal to a powered sub. The leads in the stock wiring is very short so in my case I was glad to have the extra wire in the harness to splice out of the car to wire the amp leads and in situ when I connected the speaker leads from my amp. The long leads that come with the harness are long enough to run a sub without splicing into the harness.
 

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Ended up grabbing 12VDC straight from the convince outlet located in the boot to power the sub (uses an internal fairly small 200W class-D amp)...
Wow this is surprising/intriguing to me! You really think this is not an issue?
The power wire this sub uses (I bought the same unit) is 10 gauge and I imagine the the 12VDC wire connecting the outlet is more like 14 or 16 gauge??
Do you happen to know what the fuse amperage for that back outlet is?
Did you leave the convenience outlet functional or disconnect it so only the sub could work there?
Lastly, specifically where were you able to ground the unit?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to doing this stuff on my own. I appreciate any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #357
Wow this is surprising/intriguing to me! You really think this is not an issue?
The power wire this sub uses (I bought the same unit) is 10 gauge and I imagine the the 12VDC wire connecting the outlet is more like 14 or 16 gauge??
Do you happen to know what the fuse amperage for that back outlet is?
Did you leave the convenience outlet functional or disconnect it so only the sub could work there?
Lastly, specifically where were you able to ground the unit?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to doing this stuff on my own. I appreciate any suggestions.
The sub ran fine wired there and never popped the car fuse but I did eventually run the following silicone wire from B+ under the hood to the sub as well as a short pigtail ground from sub to closest chassis bolt:

BNTECHGO 10 Gauge Silicone Wire Red 20 ft Ultra Flexible 10 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire
BNTECHGO 10 Gauge Silicone Wire Black 20 ft Ultra Flexible 10 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire
BNTECHGO 5 Pack 10 AWG Inline Fuse Holder for 40A ATC/ATO Blade Automotive Fuse
Wago 221-613 LEVER-NUTS 10AWG 3 Conductor Compact Wire Connectors 30 PK
 

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If you look at the schematic in my signature, the stock Pioneer head unit @20W amp continues to drive the 2 dash tweeters in addition to feeding high level amp inputs front/rear.
The 4 door speakers are now driven by the external amp. Sub is driven by the amp. There may be a aftermarket connector for G4 which carries all 8 audio speaker signals leaving the head unit but I haven't looked recently.
Not sure if this was already explained, but what kind of rewiring did you have to do to keep the dash speakers powered with the head unit while having the front door speakers powered by the sub since those 4 run parallel?
 

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The sub ran fine wired there and never popped the car fuse but I did eventually run the following silicone wire from B+ under the hood to the sub as well as a short pigtail ground from sub to closest chassis bolt:
Okay well that makes sense and I have already ran the 8 gauge power line from the sub to the front passenger area but I'm hesitant to poke through to the engine area which leads me to the question I asked in a different thread of this forum where WickedAle thought you might have an answer for:

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"Is this the grommet to snip the nipple and put the power wire through?"
RAV4 grommet option blue.jpg

The sub ran fine wired there and never popped the car fuse but I did eventually run the following silicone wire from B+ under the hood to the sub as well as a short pigtail ground from sub to closest chassis bolt:
However I did not run a ground wire to the front, nor do I have the extra wire to do so. I'd love to know where you had previously grounded the sub/amp in hopes that I could just use that as my permanent ground.

Used the above linked 2 conductor silicone wire 14 gauge for the short run between glove box where amp is parked to passenger's side footwell where constant 12VDC is avail for passenger's side window fed by 30A fuse (amp is fused at 20A) behind the kick panel.
Beyond that, and not right now because I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible at the moment, I also have an amp similar in size to yours (Alpine KTP-445U 45wx4) that I wish to run and wonder if you think it would be fine for me to just tap onto the 8 gauge power wire that I'm currently running for the JBL sub to also power the amp? This is also why I purchased an 8 gauge wire instead of 10 gauge.

Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #360
Not sure if this has been asked, but I was wondering if had to rewire the dash speakers directly to head unit


Not sure if this was already explained, but what kind of rewiring did you have to do to keep the dash speakers powered with the head unit while having the front door speakers powered by the sub since those 4 run parallel?


2 dash speakers continue to be driven by OEM aluminum conductor wiring from G4. I severed the 2 front door parallel connection pins 1&3 at G5 (dash speaker connector) and ran speed wire between G4 of head unit to DSP > AMP > speed wire to 2 front door speaker...
 
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