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Discussion Starter #361
"Is this the grommet to snip the nipple and put the power wire through?"
View attachment 151343
Nope, not even close


Pic posted back on pg 13 but I am actually passing 10AWG and on the passenger side grommet...
 

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2 dash speakers continue to be driven by OEM aluminum conductor wiring from G4. I severed the 2 front door parallel connection pins 1&3 at G5 (dash speaker connector) and ran speed wire between G4 of head unit to DSP > AMP > speed wire to 2 front door speaker...
Got it, thanks!
 

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Nope, not even close


Pic posted back on pg 13 but I am actually passing 10AWG and on the passenger side grommet...
Two quick questions:
So this is the only other boot type thing that I see on the passenger side which does not look like your pic on page 13:
Do you think that is the right spot?
RAV4 boot yellow.jpg

And, do you have a recommendation for where to ground the amp in the spare tire area?
 

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Discussion Starter #364 (Edited)
Two quick questions:
So this is the only other boot type thing that I see on the passenger side which does not look like your pic on page 13:
View attachment 151346

And, do you have a recommendation for where to ground the amp in the spare tire area?


Yes, and I'm passing the 10AWG thru passenger-side grommet via the 'nipple' on the right as you picture indicates taken with hood open...ground for the sub parked on the spare is the closest chassis bolt to the immediate right of spare...hint you would have to remove the right-hand interior molding to access (same interior part you would remove to run 12VDC, 2pair audio and remote turn on voltage)
 

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Yes, and I'm passing the 10AWG thru passenger-side grommet via the 'nipple' on the right as you picture indicates taken with hood open...ground for the sub parked on the spare is the closest chassis bolt to the immediate right of spare...hint you would have to remove the right-hand interior molding to access (same interior part you would remove to run 12VDC, 2pair audio and remote turn on voltage)
Well that was a harrowing experience!!

I strongly recommend not pulling anything thicker than 10AWG through that particular "nipple" spot, It took me hours just to get the 8AWG through and in the process I ended up popping the whole rubber grommet through to the engine side and was super freaked out. I thought I had just voided my whole car warranty (I tend to overreact in these situations) and that there was no coming back from this other than bringing it in and having them pull a bunch of stuff out to be able to re-seat the grommet.🥶😨😰🤢 My stress level was through the roof!

Luckily with the help of a paint roller extension rod and some patience I'm 90% sure I was able to get the grommet re-seated properly.👍

Because it was such a mental and physical drain, pulling the cable was all I got done(luckily the RAV4 has a handy little area near the windshield where I was able to coil the run and zip tie it away). Clearly car stereo installer in not a profession in my future.

Here's a pic of the cable through the grommet:

I ordered this liquid tape to clean up the area and hopefully seal up the rubber frays I made on the remaining "nipple" while ripping this cable through. Do you think this stuff would be good or would there be something better to use? Ideally I would like it to look stock enough that it doesn't draw the attention of any service technicians.

RAV4 cable through.jpg liquid tape pic.jpg

Again Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated!!
 

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How did you wire the powered sub to the stereo? Did you use the tacotunes harness? I’m interested in doing a setup similar to yours
I spliced the speaker wires near the head unit, I did not use a harness but I highly recommend that you use an adapter harness, it will make the installation much easier.
I own an hybrid RAV4, so I connected the 12V line to the battery in the trunk using cable lug. The ground was connected to a bolt under the passenger safety belt panel.
All the speaker line in cables + trigger wire where tucked under the center console on the passenger side.
 

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I strongly recommend not pulling anything thicker than 10AWG through that particular "nipple" spot, It took me hours just to get the 8AWG through
Can others with gas models chime in if they were able to fit a thicker wire? I definitely need something thicker than a 10AWG to power my amp
 

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Can others with gas models chime in if they were able to fit a thicker wire? I definitely need something thicker than a 10AWG to power my amp
You can pull the entire grommet off, pull the cable and then push the grommet back on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'm assuming you will need to reseal it? If so, what product do you recommend to reseal it?
If you are worried about the seal, you can use a high temp silicone. There’s many to choose from.


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Thought THIS harness may help a few people as its cheaper than the taco one.
Your still need to cut and join the wire to feed your speakers/amp.
ordered today to the UK so cant comment but looks to be correct bits
151679
 

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Hi Griff. Have you recieved the cables yet?

If so, would you be so kind and take a few measurements? If we have the exact measures i can create this connector in fusion 360 and 3d print it.
 

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Hi Griff. Have you recieved the cables yet?

If so, would you be so kind and take a few measurements? If we have the exact measures i can create this connector in fusion 360 and 3d print it.
Hi
Not yet received but as soon as i get it, I will post some photos and measurements
 

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Any suggestions for picking up 12V for the remote turn on? My car doesn’t have the 12v plug in the back like yours. Currently have the cable ran up to the front of the car. Stock head unit must have 12v but I haven’t been able to find out which wire.
I believe the cigarette lighter/12v turns on with the car
 

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Well that was a harrowing experience!!

I strongly recommend not pulling anything thicker than 10AWG through that particular "nipple" spot, It took me hours just to get the 8AWG through and in the process I ended up popping the whole rubber grommet through to the engine side and was super freaked out. I thought I had just voided my whole car warranty (I tend to overreact in these situations) and that there was no coming back from this other than bringing it in and having them pull a bunch of stuff out to be able to re-seat the grommet.🥶😨😰🤢 My stress level was through the roof!

Luckily with the help of a paint roller extension rod and some patience I'm 90% sure I was able to get the grommet re-seated properly.👍

Because it was such a mental and physical drain, pulling the cable was all I got done(luckily the RAV4 has a handy little area near the windshield where I was able to coil the run and zip tie it away). Clearly car stereo installer in not a profession in my future.

Here's a pic of the cable through the grommet:

I ordered this liquid tape to clean up the area and hopefully seal up the rubber frays I made on the remaining "nipple" while ripping this cable through. Do you think this stuff would be good or would there be something better to use? Ideally I would like it to look stock enough that it doesn't draw the attention of any service technicians.

View attachment 151364 View attachment 151365

Again Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated!!

Thanks, i was not sure i got the right nipple everyone was talking about
 
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