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I replaced the front dash speakers with JBL club 4020 and really sound did not make much difference. Perhaps 10% improvement. Did anyone else find same?
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Installed the Rockford Fosgate p300-12 Powered Subwoofer today and the Bass Pounds solid, distortion free and solid. Vehicle vibrations are manageable considering the light grade car pieces lol. You will see the rearview mirror tremble and on the outside the license plate will rattle. Im pretty pleased so far as the car system sounds heavy. The box is attached via velcro on the carpeted matt. Unplug the 3 wires from subwoofer box to remove easily when ready for more room. Subwoofer will only work when ignition is on and its automatic. Head unit functions just same with controls. I wont be doing tailwhips or burnouts so it should be stable enough given the heft of the box. I decided to let a professional install it for me- i just couldn't be bothered. I do have the JBL club 3020 and will install myself in dash as its super easy but have to wait another 3 weeks for the connector harness coming Off ebay. I hope its the correct one! I'm wondering what format of music connection gives the best audio now through head unit, Carplay, Bluetooth, USB stick? I'll have to explore and if anyone can share. I've attached 4 pics! View attachment 153660 View attachment 153661 View attachment 153662 View attachment 153663
Im also wanting this set-up but for the 10 inch version. how does it handle?
 

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🇨🇦 2020 RAV4 XLE Hybrid - Super White
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@somms super weird ask and offtopic, but your 4ton bottle jack, at it's lowest setting (extension screw NOT making contact with the RAV4 frame). What height is it, does it fit under the jacking points? If you have a pic bro you'd be a life saver.

Debating between the 4T and 8T, but worry the 8T might be too tall... Before you ask, 8T for when our car is loaded to the tits on our winter ski trips 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter #453
@somms super weird ask and offtopic, but your 4ton bottle jack, at it's lowest setting (extension screw NOT making contact with the RAV4 frame). What height is it, does it fit under the jacking points? If you have a pic bro you'd be a life saver.



It manages to lift the tires off the ground which is all I really need...
 

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It looks like you raised the floor to get those amps to fit underneath it with a level surface.

How did you do this? Use wood frames along the edges?

The plan
View attachment 151486

View attachment 151488

It turns out like this, the final and finished project
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My front and rear speaker parallel

View attachment 151493

Dash speaker Infinity
View attachment 151494

Audiocontrol ACR-1
View attachment 151495 View attachment 151496
 

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Looking to upgrade my speakers soon or maybe a complete system upgrade but I had a few questions regarding the factory speaker wiring and hoping you guys can help a bit !
I usually use the factory wiring.

Did you switch out the factory wiring for new thinker gauge wiring ?
If you did which awg did you use ?
If Not why not ?
Also just out of curiosity can anyone confirm what the factory speaker wire gauge is ?

Anyone attempt to do a custom subwoofer box yet ?

Thanks in advance
Side note I've attempted to search up and down for these questions but would just like a bit more input / couldn't find the answer to others.
 

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Picked up my Rav this week here in the UK and just came to fit my dash speakers and found that they have added the below.
I can only assume its for the emergency call as no sound seems to be coming from it.
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I have an issue that needs addressing with the Pioneer HU.

I recently upgraded my system (Focals + Diamond Amp + Audiocontrol DSP + Diamond Sub). This was the same setup I had in my last car and it sounded wonderful. But on my Rav4 Hybrid (2020) it doesn't sound that good. The installer mentioned that he needed an adapter from PAC (Toyota Advanced Amplifier Integration) to retain the steering wheel controls and such.

Thanks to this adapter my bass signals are very weak unless the installer adds a lot of volume and clips. My low-end bass (80 kHz range) now sounds good but it had to be +30 volume to react, same with the mid-bass.

I think this adapter is causing all my issues but I can't seem to find any information on any newer ones. I'm thinking of replacing the Audiocontrol DSP with a Helix .3 DSP to see if it fixes the issues. The installer and I are both audiophiles and we are both scratching our head at this.

The problem, first now we have a noise floor going off, due to the limitations of the adapter. Second, basslines and overall bass seem to be way off.
 

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Discussion Starter #459
The problem, first now we have a noise floor going off, due to the limitations of the adapter. Second, basslines and overall bass seem to be way off.

Not sure if this is your issue but if the polarity is incorrect will cause bass reduction due to phase being out 180 degree. This would be easy to correct thru your DSP which would allow you to flip polarity between 0 to 180 degree on the fly in order to verify...
 

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Yea we did a polarity test, everything came out normal. This is where the problems start though, everything is set properly including the processor but nothing is working well. Both of us think it's that PAC adapter. But we don't know, from what my installer told me, is that the adapter is only used for the controls, it could lose some audio signals on it (-2 to -4 dB), but it shouldn't do that. We are thinking that replacing the Audiocontrol DSP with a Helix to see if that fixes the issue but we don't know. I've been in audio engineering for 15+ years, and I haven't seen this issue before.

The other question is to get a better audio sound, is it worth replacing the built-in head unit?
 
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