[Blackknight]

Pins 5 & 10 are unused on that connector. So it pinouts 1,2,3,4 (TOP) and 6,7,8,9 (BOTTOM) left to right of connector with wires that plugs into the head unit

But the right door and the left door are whi

Pins 5 & 10 are unused on that connector. So it pinouts 1,2,3,4 (TOP) and 6,7,8,9 (BOTTOM) left to right of connector with wires that plugs into the head unit

what about the speakers in the both front doors?? They have the same color (white and gray) both the same color. And those colors are in your picture in the G4 connectors? Can you tell us what T harness you used?? Thanks

 

[somms]

what about the speakers in the both front doors?? They have the same color (white and gray) both the same color. And those colors are in your picture in the G4 connectors? Can you tell us what T harness you used?? Thanks

I used no harness. I severed all 8 wires leaving the G4 connector that carries the audio signals to the speakers and used this connector in order to feed the external amp inputs.

If you look at the schematic in my signature, the FR & FL from G4 normally feed both dash and front door speakers. The color coding of the wiring changes between G4 and where it terminates into the speakers. I have no idea what the color coding is as I used physical pinouts from the schematic verified with digital multimeter and oscilloscope the correct wires for speakers as well as polarity. The audio pair leaving G4 that terminates at front dash speakers is the only existing wiring that I continued to use. I choose to run copper speed wire to the 4 door speakers instead of reusing the aluminum conductor factory wiring for the 4 door speakers...

 

[Blackknight]

I used no harness. I severed all 8 wires leaving the G4 connector that carries the audio signals to the speakers and used this connector in order to feed the external amp inputs.

If you look at the schematic in my signature, the FR & FL from G4 normally feed both dash and front door speakers. The color coding of the wiring changes between G4 and where it terminates into the speakers. I have no idea what the color coding is as I used physical pinouts from the schematic verified with digital multimeter and oscilloscope the correct wires for speakers as well as polarity. The audio pair leaving G4 that terminates at front dash speakers is the only existing wiring that I continued to use. I choose to run copper speed wire to the 4 door speakers instead of reusing the aluminum conductor factory wiring for the 4 door speakers...

Thank you so much. I will take off the head unit tomorrow and check the G4 connector. I might tap into the original wires as I want to avoid drilling in the door boot harness. I dont wanna damage anything. I am not a professional installer. They want $2500 for amp and sub and installation excluding the speakers cost cause I already bought them. I am not going to pay this astronomical amount. I can buy DSP and amp and sub and all wires with fraction of this cost and install them by myself.

when you disconnect the black negative wire from the battery or when you disconnect the head unit. Did it lock you out and asked for PIN?? Or it is safe to disconnect and reconnect with no issues??

also, would you please put us links to your testing tools that you used. Like the device that test the polarity and stuff like that.

thank you so much again for your help and prompt reply always. You are great help.

 

[Blackknight]

New Update:

I took off the two front doors pannels and rewired all the speakers, the twitters and the crossovers. I did some mistakes on polarity and the infinity speakers were out of phase. I did some more sound dampening treatment to the doors and the plastic panels from inside. I labeled all the wires again. I fired up the stereo, and woo. I did not expect this result at all. These front door infinity speakers and the dash speakers are super sensitive. They are crisp and clear with high volume. I achieved very nice bass and imaging up to volume 40, then some distortion will occur because of the OEM headhunts. These speakers are amazing. Because of this, I put an order for another 2 infinity components 6.5" for the back doors too. I wanna see how it sounds before moving to the next step and install DSP, AMP and Subwoofer.

Here are the speakers for Toyota RAV4 Hybrid model 2019

- Dash Speakers: X2

Amazon.com: Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" 75W Reference Series Coaxial Car Speakers With Edge-driven Textile Tweeter, Pair

Buy Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" 75W Reference Series Coaxial Car Speakers With Edge-driven Textile Tweeter, Pair: Tweeters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

REF 3032cfx ($51.95 per pair)
Description: 3-1/2" (87mm) coaxial car speaker
Power Handling: 25W RMS, 75W peak
Sensitivity (@ 2.83V): 91dB
Frequency Response: 85Hz – 21kHz Impedance: 3.0 ohms

- Front Door Speakers: X2

Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6530CX 6-1/2" Component Speaker System: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6530CX 6-1/2" Component Speaker System: Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

Right Front Door Speaker (White = Negative / Gray = Positive)
Left Front Door Speaker (White = Negative / Gray = Positive)
REF 6530cx ($133.95 per pair)
Description: 6-1/2" (160mm) component speaker system
Power Handling: 90W RMS, 270W peak
Sensitivity (@ 2.83V): 93dB
Frequency Response: 53Hz – 21kHz
Impedance: 3.0 ohms

Adapters:
Mosuch 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter

Amazon.com: Mosuch 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter. Fitted For Toyota 4Runner, Avalon, Celica, Corolla, Echo, Highlander, Matrix, Prius, RAV, Sequoia, Sienna, Solara, Tacoma, Tundra, Venza, Yaris: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Mosuch 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter. Fitted For Toyota 4Runner, Avalon, Celica, Corolla, Echo, Highlander, Matrix, Prius, RAV, Sequoia, Sienna, Solara, Tacoma, Tundra, Venza, Yaris: Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

Sound Deadening Mat:

Amazon.com: Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening: Automotive

Buy Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening: Insulation - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I will keep you posted once the back door speakers are installed.

 

[somms]

I will keep you posted once the back door speakers are installed.

Looking sharp!

Any plans for the pair of tweeters that you got with the 6.5" midranges?

If I had $250 burning a hole in my pocket I would consider the DSR1 for a DSP configured in standalone mode...

 

[Blackknight]

The crossovers and small twitter came in the box with the 6.5 infinity. They are doing great in combination with the 3.5 coaxial in the dash. The imaging is amazing. I am going for audio control LC7i and amp and sub in summer. I will delay this project till its more warmer lol

 

[Strate]

This is basically the exact setup i have been looking at! Did you need anything besides what you listed?

I'll probably buy the same gear but was concerned i might need an amp and I don't know how to wire one.

 

[jon7chow]

I have the same 3.5 infinity inch speakers in the front. They are really awesome. I have heard changing the 6.5's you lose a lot of the low ends. I've also been hesitant because I dont want to rip apart the whole car. I don't really want to get an amp, so i'll use as is for now. I would recommend the 3.5 inch change out to anyone though. Super easy to do and sound excellent.

 

[somms]

I have heard changing the 6.5's you lose a lot of the low ends.

This would make sense since you would be swapping out the weak 20W factory drivers for speakers that require much more power than can be provided by stock head unit.

 

[Blackknight]

The 3.5 inch infinity in the dash has a capacitors on them to prevent them from playing low frequencies and protect the twitters in them. So you won't hear any base from the dash, which is what we want. The 6.5 infinity in the doors are another story. They are sensitive pair (93 db) and can play as low as 50hz (which is great compared to other brands). I got a really good amount of bass when I installed both of them in the front door. However, I did proper sound deadening and foam around the adapters and speakers to prevent any rattling in the future. The 6.5 infinity comes with cross over and twitter. The subwoofer send all the low frequencies to the 6.5 inch woofer and send the high frequencies to the twitter. the combination of dash speakers and door speaker resulted in amazing sound quality with good amount of bass I did not find in other speakers. The volume up to 40 is guaranteed with clarity and no clipping. If you install them properly, you might be satisfied and no sub needed. (The windows already shaking from the deep bass on those two 6.5). I ordered another two components the same brand and same specs and will install them in the back door and keep you posted.

The infinity speakers (6.5 inch) rated 90 RMS. Those need amp to drive them to full potential. However, they are 3 ohm, which means they are super sensitive and they don't need lots of power to bring those bad boys to deep bass. if you are seeking lower notes than 50Hz, subwoofer is needed.

 

[Kaisdad]

The 3.5 inch infinity in the dash has a capacitors on them to prevent them from playing low frequencies and protect the twitters in them. So you won't hear any base from the dash, which is what we want. The 6.5 infinity in the doors are another story. They are sensitive pair (93 db) and can play as low as 50hz (which is great compared to other brands). I got a really good amount of bass when I installed both of them in the front door. However, I did proper sound deadening and foam around the adapters and speakers to prevent any rattling in the future. The 6.5 infinity comes with cross over and twitter. The subwoofer send all the low frequencies to the 6.5 inch woofer and send the high frequencies to the twitter. the combination of dash speakers and door speaker resulted in amazing sound quality with good amount of bass I did not find in other speakers. The volume up to 40 is guaranteed with clarity and no clipping. If you install them properly, you might be satisfied and no sub needed. (The windows already shaking from the deep bass on those two 6.5). I ordered another two components the same brand and same specs and will install them in the back door and keep you posted.

The infinity speakers (6.5 inch) rated 90 RMS. Those need amp to drive them to full potential. However, they are 3 ohm, which means they are super sensitive and they don't need lots of power to bring those bad boys to deep bass. if you are seeking lower notes than 50Hz, subwoofer is needed.

Are there adapter harness for the speakers in the doors? I tried searching around but can’t find one.

I also bought the same speakers but would like to avoid cutting factory harness off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jon7chow]

The 3.5 inch infinity in the dash has a capacitors on them to prevent them from playing low frequencies and protect the twitters in them. So you won't hear any base from the dash, which is what we want. The 6.5 infinity in the doors are another story. They are sensitive pair (93 db) and can play as low as 50hz (which is great compared to other brands). I got a really good amount of bass when I installed both of them in the front door. However, I did proper sound deadening and foam around the adapters and speakers to prevent any rattling in the future. The 6.5 infinity comes with cross over and twitter. The subwoofer send all the low frequencies to the 6.5 inch woofer and send the high frequencies to the twitter. the combination of dash speakers and door speaker resulted in amazing sound quality with good amount of bass I did not find in other speakers. The volume up to 40 is guaranteed with clarity and no clipping. If you install them properly, you might be satisfied and no sub needed. (The windows already shaking from the deep bass on those two 6.5). I ordered another two components the same brand and same specs and will install them in the back door and keep you posted.

The infinity speakers (6.5 inch) rated 90 RMS. Those need amp to drive them to full potential. However, they are 3 ohm, which means they are super sensitive and they don't need lots of power to bring those bad boys to deep bass. if you are seeking lower notes than 50Hz, subwoofer is needed.

I didn't use the bass blockers as I wanted to try them out first without adding the extra hardware. I bought harnesses so it was easier to keep them plug and play. I might consider the 6.5 infinity upgrade if I find time. I typically don't have volume even above 30 anyways. The 3.5inch infinity speakers are pretty great. Likely make the biggest difference as they are closest to your head.

 

[Blackknight]

Are there adapter harness for the speakers in the doors? I tried searching around but can’t find one.

I also bought the same speakers but would like to avoid cutting factory harness off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazon.com: Mosuch 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter. Fitted For Toyota 4Runner, Avalon, Celica, Corolla, Echo, Highlander, Matrix, Prius, RAV, Sequoia, Sienna, Solara, Tacoma, Tundra, Venza, Yaris: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Mosuch 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter. Fitted For Toyota 4Runner, Avalon, Celica, Corolla, Echo, Highlander, Matrix, Prius, RAV, Sequoia, Sienna, Solara, Tacoma, Tundra, Venza, Yaris: Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

I cut the wires in the doors. it is only 2 wires. not a big deal. Make sure you use OFC wires.

 

[Blackknight]

I didn't use the bass blockers as I wanted to try them out first without adding the extra hardware. I bought harnesses so it was easier to keep them plug and play. I might consider the 6.5 infinity upgrade if I find time. I typically don't have volume even above 30 anyways. The 3.5inch infinity speakers are pretty great. Likely make the biggest difference as they are closest to your head.

No need to install bass blocker. The dash speakers already has capacitors welded into them. You are good to go.

 

[kp93]

Are there adapter harness for the speakers in the doors? I tried searching around but can’t find one.

I also bought the same speakers but would like to avoid cutting factory harness off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Someone said this adapter works if you don't want to cut wires.

https://www.reddit.com/r/rav4club/comments/d8wzcd/_/f1ednhv

 

[Rustic_Potato]

First thanks a lot for this thread for the audio insights.
I went ahead with @jon7chow choice of reference speakers - plug and play with the ebay adapter he mentioned, and the difference is already night and day!

A few questions that could be audio/warranty related.
I noticed that my left headlight is brighter than my left. Now sure how it was before the upgrade ( I believe it was still brighter ).

1. Would the 60W speaker upgrade vs 20W stock cause any electrical issues?
2. Would upgrading audio void warranty?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Lewfx]

where is the pic of your pioneer headunit? I am curious to see it!

 

[somms]

where is the pic of your pioneer headunit? I am curious to see it!

Pioneer AVH-6788 is just the stock radio installed in the non-JBL RAV4

 

[Lewfx]

Pioneer AVH-6788 is just the stock radio installed in the non-JBL RAV4

ah thanks, i didnt know. Does anyone know if you go aftermarket such as Alpine how hard it will be to match the eom plugs with aftermarket harnesses?

 

[night blade]

ah thanks, i didnt know. Does anyone know if you go aftermarket such as Alpine how hard it will be to match the eom plugs with aftermarket harnesses?

View attachment 148332

Shouldn't be that hard, but since there's no Toyota Rav 2019 - 2020 stereo harness yet that I know of, it will be slightly more difficult. Best bet would be to use posi-taps or t-connectors to keep the Toyota harness clean, just follow the wiring diagram available in somms signature.