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First thanks a lot for this thread for the audio insights.
I went ahead with @jon7chow choice of reference speakers - plug and play with the ebay adapter he mentioned, and the difference is already night and day!

A few questions that could be audio/warranty related.
I noticed that my left headlight is brighter than my left. Now sure how it was before the upgrade ( I believe it was still brighter ).

1. Would the 60W speaker upgrade vs 20W stock cause any electrical issues?
2. Would upgrading audio void warranty?

Thanks in advance!
Nice! Glad you had success with this as well! Can't comment on the questions, although I did the dash speakers only so that i could easily swap them back if there was any issue. The door speakers require drilling out rivets etc so can't go back easily.
Based on the performance of the 3.5inch infinity speakers, I doubt I will replace the doors anytime soon. I do find the bass from the doors a bit muddy, but the clarity of the dash speakers is amazing.
 

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Shouldn't be that hard, but since there's no Toyota Rav 2019 - 2020 stereo harness yet that I know of, it will be slightly more difficult. Best bet would be to use posi-taps or t-connectors to keep the Toyota harness clean, just follow the wiring diagram available in somms signature.
I recently purchased a 2020 RAV4 Hybrid and was looking to upgrade the stereo system. Preferably Alpine head + speakers.

Since there isn't a harness for the 2020 models yet should I just wait to do the upgrade?
 

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A pair of the infinity 3.5" speakers should be arriving today, super excited to install them. Planning on a more thorough upgrade, but for the time being these should alone be a huge upgrade considering how awful the stock 3.5"s are. I'm curious what tool you guys choose to remove the dash speaker grill, and if anybody has found a specific technique for prying it up that seems to be most efficient and safe against breaking any of the fasteners?

Edit: Upon reviewing the two pictures of that fasteners beneath that grill posted in this thread, it looks like prying up the corners of the grill furthest from the windshield corner should easily pop out the grill.

Also for anyone wondering, I will be installing this in a 2020 hybrid XLE.
 

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I recently purchased a 2020 RAV4 Hybrid and was looking to upgrade the stereo system. Preferably Alpine head + speakers.

Since there isn't a harness for the 2020 models yet should I just wait to do the upgrade?
Someone here should have more info on the harness, I couldn't find one in my quick google search but it might be available somewhere, call or email Metra to see if they have anything yet.

I would not wait, but I'm impatient especially if the stereo is sitting there in my house just waiting for a harness.
 

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Am I the only one that the speaker adapter listed earlier in this post is the totally wrong one? I have a small 2 wire clip to my dash speaker. The ones everyone else seems to have, is the large connector with 4 wires. I do have the JBL system in mine though. Any pointers to the proper connector?
 

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Nope. None of those look like the small connector that I have on mine. Really trying to avoid having to cut them, but I may have to.
 

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Tried picking that one up last night. Very similar shape, but too big. I think I may have found the right one on amazon from that Red Wolf brand. Should be in tomorrow so I'll keep you guys updated.

But, how bad would it be if I did just cut the connector and put on a more universal one? I mean, would it detract value from the car at trade in? Everything I've done up to this point is totally reversible so cutting the connectors rattles my cage a bit. Especially that I'm not the best with electronic wiring.
 

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Thanks for this thread! Helped so much when I was working on my own stereo upgrade. (And putting the amp in the glovebox is such a slick move)
In case it’s helpful or anyone is interested my upgrade was a little different.
Quick overview. Installed 3.5 JBL dash, then 6.5 Polk in the doors with some light deadening. Next was pioneer 5 channel amp and finally an old 12” sub from a previous car (will replace with a smaller 10” a some point). So stock head unit and stock look with much more power and clarity with an amp and sub in the trunk.

A few thoughts:
JBL is very easy and big upgrade
Door speakers were as expected worse before adding the amp due to lack of bass due to under powering from head unit.
Even small amount of deadening seemed to help significantly with the door resonance
Amp made a huge difference and speaker level inputs work well but requires a lot of cable running. (I sliced into the speaker output behind the head unit and ran the amp output back to the same location to preserve and not change any of the speaking wiring)

I have a 2019 hybrid which means the battery is in the trunk which makes a trunk amp install much easier.
I was surprised by the limited rattle once the sub was installed
 

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Just FYI - anyone who needs the stock speaker plug and play adapter, it’s also available as a pair on Amazon and can ship with prime. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4KGhEbSPZ1MSW

here’s a photo of the stock speaker attached to the harness that you would clip the adapter onto, as well as my preferred method for unclipping the stock speaker (use a small screwdriver to press down on the lever holding the clips together, then leverage the screwdriver against the male end of the clip to pry them apart. Takes very little force and should be easy and fast.
148554
 

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So I got my Infinity REF3022CFX speakers installed last night with the plug and play adapter - I did not attach the bass blocker capacitor that was included, as it was previously noted by user Blackknight (see comment Budget aftermarket stereo retrofit for 6 speaker RAV4 (Pioneer head unit)) that there was no need. I am suspecting that the bass blockers actually are needed, as certain very bass-heavy songs are sounding quite distorted, and I'm worrying about damage it may cause to the speakers. Overall, these infinity ref3022 speakers are really good and they are actually designed to deliver some bass down to 85hz since they combine a tweeter with a small woofer. I'm going to play around and test the sound with the bass blocker attached to one of them but not the other, panning left to right to compare and see if the bass blocker can eliminate what I believe is distortion. Will do that test later tonight or tomorrow.
 

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So I got my Infinity REF3022CFX speakers installed last night with the plug and play adapter - I did not attach the bass blocker capacitor that was included, as it was previously noted by user Blackknight (see comment Budget aftermarket stereo retrofit for 6 speaker RAV4 (Pioneer head unit)) that there was no need. I am suspecting that the bass blockers actually are needed, as certain very bass-heavy songs are sounding quite distorted, and I'm worrying about damage it may cause to the speakers. Overall, these infinity ref3022 speakers are really good and they are actually designed to deliver some bass down to 85hz since they combine a tweeter with a small woofer. I'm going to play around and test the sound with the bass blocker attached to one of them but not the other, panning left to right to compare and see if the bass blocker can eliminate what I believe is distortion. Will do that test later tonight or tomorrow.
I’d be interested to know this as well. I installed them recently and seem to be getting the same issue. I thought it might be because of lack of an amp ( on my end ) will be interested to see what you find.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I’d be interested to know this as well. I installed them recently and seem to be getting the same issue. I thought it might be because of lack of an amp ( on my end ) will be interested to see what you find.


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Even though I don't wish my issues upon others, I'm glad to know it's not just me. From what I've found online, the 270 uF capacitors that were included will add a -3 dB filter to frequencies ~200 Hz and lower. Seeing as the speaker claims a frequency capability down to 85 Hz, it does seem like maybe the issue is that we are feeding the speakers power from the headunit and not via an amp w/ digital signal processor. I plan on getting those eventually when I replace the front/rear door speakers, and possibly add a spare tire sub, but that won't be for quite a while so for now the bass blocker test will have to do.
 

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For those that have the stock JBL system with 11 speakers, you need a totally different harness adapter than what has been previously posted. This is the one you want. Plug and play. Hope this saves someone the headache I had finding it lol
 

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The crossovers and small twitter came in the box with the 6.5 infinity. They are doing great in combination with the 3.5 coaxial in the dash. The imaging is amazing. I am going for audio control LC7i and amp and sub in summer. I will delay this project till its more warmer lol
Thanks for the great info! I really want the same setup that you have. Where did you mount the tweeters that came with the Infiniti speakers?
 

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Somms how did you get the wiring to the dash speakers? I want to run the directly off of the head unit but not sure if it’s best to look for a splice in the wiring behind the head unit or just run wire from the dash speaker back to behind the head unit ( not sure how easy this would be either). Thanks!
 

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I installed the bass blockers on my Infinity REF3022's today - honestly I don't hear a difference, if anything maybe some more fidelity was added now that the speakers aren't getting much input from those sub tones? Either way, I'm pretty happy with how the speakers sound. Looking forward to finishing the upgrade with new door speakers & amp/dsp.
 

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Noobie here. Always had decent amp'd setups so this stock system sounds pretty dreadful IMO. I'm looking at upgrading the front speakers with something like the IS 165TOY from Focal, I already have 6" focal woofers I can put in the rear. Use something like the Alpine KTP-445 for the speakers and a focal HILO to an Alpine or similar slim active under seat sub plus sound deadening in the doors. I'm not looking for anything crazy just a decent improvement over the stock 6 speaker muffle. Any objections to doing this with the stock speaker wire?

I'm sure it'd improve running new wire but i'm lazy. The KTP-445 is 4x 45w RMS. Could I utilize the stock wiring to the front speaker and tweeter still or would i have to use an actual crossover? The focal HILO when supplied with 12v has an automatic remote output (for turning on the sub amp if I understand correctly?) Thanks!
 
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