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Budget aftermarket stereo retrofit for 6 speaker RAV4 (Pioneer head unit)

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Kept the original Pioneer AVH-6788 head unit flashed up to the latest firmware avail from Toyota: https://www.rav4world.com/threads/just-had-entune-infotainment-update.298947/post-2704559

  1. Removed the 6 existing stock 20W Pioneer speakers and replaced with 2 JBL CLUB3020 3ohm + 4 JBL CLUB6520 3ohm ($32 + $90 = $122) via amazon prime
  2. Installed Soundstream ST4.1200D Stealth Series 1200W Class D 4 chan amp $113 via amazon prime
Additional Items purchased:
4 Mosuch 6.5inch plastic black speaker adapter ($15)
VOODOO 18 AWG Gauge 9 Conductor Speed Blue Wire Speaker Trailer Copper Stranded (20 FT) ($20)
XHF Conductor Compact Connectors Lever-Nut (SPL-2, 25PCS) ($16)
Lever-Nut Assortment Conductor Compact Wire Connectors PCT-212(25 PCS) PCT-213(25 PCS) PCT-214(25 PCS) PCT-215(25 PCS) 100PCS ($26)

$312 in parts total

Notes:
Speaker wires leaving G4 connector of Pioneer head unit are aluminum conductor and cannot be soldered hence why various Lever-Nuts are used for interconnects
Stealth amp hidden away in the glove box that is still functional (open/close as show in the gif above)
Manual SOS button operates and readback audio is fed to right-hand 3.5inch JBL CLUB3020 only (Telematics audio no longer comes thru right-hand door speaker since high-level amp input is taken prior to DCM)
No need to worry about splicing amp aux turn on since the ST4.1200D will auto detect high-level speaker signal and will turn on/off whenever the head unit is on (no thumps)

Optional:
Quimat Updated 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope Kit with Power Supply and BNC-Clip Cable Probe Q15001 (Assembled Finished Machine)
If you don't have a cheap Oscilloscope, you should consider something like the above in order to match the gains of the amp properly to avoid distortion at higher volume levels.
The class D stealth amp is stable using the 3ohm JBL speakers chosen but has a tendency to distort > Volume 46 from the Pioneer head unit as I measured on my RAV4 (Volume level 0-45 is clean stable using 1kHz & 50Hz 0dB test tones)

Questions!?
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The dash and front door speakers are run in parallel. If you disconnect the dash speakers you will see that the door ones will not work.
Keep this in mind if you are going to run speaker wires to the dash and remember to bridge the wires at the factory connector so the door speakers work.
easiest way to do this without cutting wires is just to plug in a speaker adapter and cap off the ends.
 

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Just to possibly help someone in the future, being that the speakers are run in parallel, you should replace any aftermarket speakers with speakers that have the same impedance. Every speaker that is part of the daisy chain will reduce impedance by 1/2. If you have less impedance than the amplifier was designed for the Amp will get too hot.

The dash and front door speakers are run in parallel. If you disconnect the dash speakers you will see that the door ones will not work.
Keep this in mind if you are going to run speaker wires to the dash and remember to bridge the wires at the factory connector so the door speakers work.
easiest way to do this without cutting wires is just to plug in a speaker adapter and cap off the ends.
 

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Just to possibly help someone in the future, being that the speakers are run in parallel, you should replace any aftermarket speakers with speakers that have the same impedance. Every speaker that is part of the daisy chain will reduce impedance by 1/2. If you have less impedance than the amplifier was designed for the Amp will get too hot.
Absolutely. Most good quality auto speakers are 4ohms (yes some dip lower but keep in mind it is frequency dependent). So two in parallel is 2 ohms (or a bit lower) so a high quality 2ohm (or lower) stable amp is your best bet.
 

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Absolutely. Most good quality auto speakers are 4ohms (yes some dip lower but keep in mind it is frequency dependent). So two in parallel is 2 ohms (or a bit lower) so a high quality 2ohm (or lower) stable amp is your best bet.
I replaced my dash and front doors with 3 ohm speakers (kept the rear doors untouched which are stock 4 ohm). What's the best solution to this? I haven't installed an amp yet but will in the future
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·


Much needed cheap DSP added into the mix. 4 door speakers + BassPro Sub now being driven by the DSR1 using rear speaker inputs from G4 of head unit.
Dash speakers continue to be driven from head unit and does not pass thru DSP. Finished tuning the DSP and for @$200 makes a world of difference for SQ!(y)
 

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Much needed cheap DSP added into the mix. 4 door speakers + BassPro Sub now being driven by the DSR1 using rear speaker inputs from G4 of head unit.
Dash speakers continue to be driven from head unit and does not pass thru DSP. Finished tuning the DSP and for @$200 makes a world of difference for SQ!(y)
Have you noticed any sort of crackling/distortion coming from your dash speakers? And also, is this all in your glove box? Do you have room for much else in there with all that mounted?

I ask because currently, I experience some sort of crackling/distortion from mine. My setup is the stock 6-speaker setup but with my two dash speakers replaced with the Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx. Can anybody here help me understand why it might be crackling sometimes? It happens for specific songs. I can't quite narrow down what the common denominator between these songs is, either.

I almost wonder if it is digital clipping or something.
 

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An intermittent speaker wire connection may cause this. You could try using a multi-meter to verify no extra resistance in the speaker path
I want to clarify that this phenomenon is reproducible and happens at specific moments for specific songs. These songs sound otherwise fine on headphones, computer speakers, etc.

This makes me think that it's not likely to be an intermittent speaker wire connection, especially considering that I am using a harness adapter to connect my speakers to the wire from the head unit.

I appreciate your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
This makes me think that it's not likely to be an intermittent speaker wire connection, especially considering that I am using a harness adapter to connect my speakers to the wire from the head unit.
If this wasn't occuring prior to your speaker swap there is a very good chance your speakers may be defective or possibly overdriven by the 20W RMS head unit.

Does this happen when your equalizer in your head unit is set to flat, ie no BASS or MID turned up!?
 

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If this wasn't occuring prior to your speaker swap there is a very good chance your speakers may be defective or possibly overdriven by the 20W RMS head unit.

Does this happen when your equalizer in your head unit is set to flat, ie no BASS or MID turned up!?
Your comment about them being overdriven makes sense - the speakers are considerably louder than the stock ones, which suggests to me that they are more sensitive to whatever signal is being sent to them than the stock ones were. I don't think the issue occurred prior to the speaker swap, though the original speakers were pretty bad and were making crackling/distortion noises on their own, of a different nature, if I remember correctly.

I have my vehicles EQ set to flat and I have sound leveling disabled as well. The issue is the same regardless of the audio source (i.e. bluetooth and carplay sound the same).
 

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Have you noticed any sort of crackling/distortion coming from your dash speakers? And also, is this all in your glove box? Do you have room for much else in there with all that mounted?

I ask because currently, I experience some sort of crackling/distortion from mine. My setup is the stock 6-speaker setup but with my two dash speakers replaced with the Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx. Can anybody here help me understand why it might be crackling sometimes? It happens for specific songs. I can't quite narrow down what the common denominator between these songs is, either.

I almost wonder if it is digital clipping or something.
I have the same speakers but my the same issue. What song and what source are you playing? What volume level as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
I have the same speakers but my the same issue.
Keep in mind the 2 dash + 2 front door speakers are wired in parallel stock and possibly this combined ohm load is low enough that the rather weak head unit maybe having difficulty driving the load possibly resulting in this distortion...

Since I have separated my 2 aftermarket dash speaker load to head unit which is driven specifically from front left/right of head unit from the rear left/right head unit > high-level into DSR1 DSP > 4 channel amp + amplified sub I am not experiencing this specific issue with dash speakers distortion...
 

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My guess is that the dash speakers are treated as a lame version of a component speaker with the front doors since they are wired in parallel. This is keeping the front channels at 4 ohms, not 2 ohms. For example, a 4 ohm aftermarket component set will have both a woofer and tweeter at 4 ohms each, even though they are wired in parallel. The same would apply to a coaxial speaker too. This has to do with the capacitors and the frequency of each driver. Less resistance when you are outside of the frequency response of the speaker. The caps on the stock dash speaker limit quite a bit of frequency keeping the impedance at 4 ohms for the channel.

Adding aftermarket dash speakers is likely bringing down the impedance to 2 ohms or lower for the front channel and the stock headunit is probably not rated for 2 ohms. So between the low RMS and the impedance mismatch on the headunit, performance is suffering. A 2 ohm stable amplifier is basically a must have for an upgrade as others have pointed out.
 

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Does anyone know the frequencies each speaker receives? I'm planning to install a component set in the front and don't want to connect it to an input that is not full range. I suspect the woofers will have a wider range but just want to make sure.
 
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