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This is a budget job. I told you guys I would post a picture when I found a solution to the CAI thing.

Well for $10 and about 5 mins work, I think this is the most cost effective way to do a CAI.

Keep in mind that mine is a 2001.
First I removed the stock intake pipe. (a few months ago)

Then I slipped off the coolant over flow tank. Easily pops off the bracket by pushing the top to the right and then pulling straight up. Just leave it hanging there for now.

Then fit the 3" flex pipe down in behind the fog light on the drivers side (the side without the pulleys). Then press it back towards the windshield and it sort of fits snugly between the brackets holding other things.

Connect it to the OE air box. (you may have to make a small slice in the pipe to get it over the place where it goes. Make sure you have the factory clamp over the pipe first (yes you can reuse the factory clamp that was on there). Then tape the end tight, covering the small slit you made and install the clamp over the taped area, securing the pipe to the air-box.

Shape the pipe to be able to reinstall the coolant tank.

Note: The tip of the pipe inside the bumper area should be pointed downward to reduce the chance of snow/water collecting in there. There is a water outlet on the bottom of the stock air-box so it acts as a safety just in case moisture may enter. It's not likely that this will ever be a concern.

You can add a "High-Flow" filter for additional air-flow but I find a "clean" stock version works just fine.

I have made my $10 back in saved fuel vs the hot air it was sucking in before. All new RAV 4's have a CAI similar to this by routing the intake pipe into the fender area instead of behind the rad. as ours were.

On the '01 and I think '02 you can remove the fog light to access the tip of the pipe and possibly redirect it out front for a RAM-air effect. This may help some but it wouldn't be for every situation.

Hope this helps.

Later. M.

http://rav4world.com/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=1112
 

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Creative.

I have a couple concerns though:

1) The airbox is still there and that's where the air gets hot since it's above the engine. So even if you can grab cold air from below, it gets hot in the airbox before going into the engine.

2) with the airbox still intact, the air doesn't go directly into the engine. By lengthening the tube so long, you may actually lose power.

3) the ribbed hose causes the air to flow in more slowly.
 

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From SRI vs. CAI - CEL thread:

I was doing my 32k maintenance and spoke to the guys at Toyota about the SRI and CAI. Basically from a technical point of view using the original box with any modifications makes no sense since you would either need small air pump to deliver the cold air into the filter box or only drive in a cold climate. The SRI is an 10-15% improvement over the factory box but no CAI would work properly without extra push into the intake.
 

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CAI?

it would take nothing short of a tornado to make cold air climb up the pipe to reach the box... just my 2 cents
 
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Keeping the air box still intact and just modding certain parts to get air in, wont really do anything. The truth is I dont think the parts under the hood is arranged in a way which allows a CAI to be installed. By having an intake the stupid steering fluid gets in the way and the piping is still too close to the engine. The air travels a longer distance.

I believe that the original setup is the best. Since the air travels the shortest distance and would not have much time to warm up. To add to that, the material (cloth weeved tubing) doesn't transfer heat as much as a Steel piping or aluminum pipe used by intakes.
 

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The main problem with the original box is that the air loses any speed during the travel through the hose and box. In the process air heats up. Similar problem is with other cars as the manufacturer's airbox extension is not made of a smooth material but rather with "bumpy" parts. Probably the most effective way would be a hood scoop.
 
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