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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I have an interesting problem. I have a 99 5 speed AWD and last week I lost the ability to shift while driving (can't actuate into gear). There were no warning signs to this problem, My clutch worked perfectly until it didn't.

I replaced my Clutch master and slave cylinder's with Aisin parts and the problem went away completely... for about a day. I bled the system again the following day and the problem went away again for about an hour. upon the final bleed, there is absolutely no air in the system and no external leak but I still can't shift.

The gears can be ran through while the car is off, and If I try to start (with the clutch held down) in first, the car moves. In fact, I can start the car like this and it won't stall but is constantly trying to pull me forward so it seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

Could someone with a manual Rav measure the throw of their slave cylinder? This might at least let me know if the problem is still hydraulic (faulty parts from the box). I don't mind replacing my clutch but I don't want to just throw parts at it in hopes that the problem goes away. I have a Toyota factory manual and it says that other causes of these symptoms can be:

1. Clutch pedal (Free play out of adjustment) *this is within spec
2. Clutch line (Air in line) *No air comes out of line during bleeding procedure, just solid fluid.
3. Master cylinder cup (Damaged) *This has been replaced
4. Release cylinder cup (Damaged) *This has been replaced
5. Clutch disc (Out of true)
6. Clutch disc (Runout is excessive)
7. Clutch disc (Lining broken)
8. Clutch disc (Dirty or burned)
9. Clutch disc (Oily)
10.Clutch disc (Lack of spline grease)
11.Diaphragm spring (Damaged)
12.Diaphragm spring (Out of tip alignment)
13.Pressure plate (Distortion)

This is driving me nuts because everything points to a hydraulic failure but I'd almost be willing to bet money that with the new parts my system is working correctly.

Thanks for any advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Had this problem on my old 98 model you need to adjust the clutch from the pedal (this worked for me)
I'll give this another shot this weekend and report back. I'm not sure how much more I can adjust it without feeling like the pedal will be too tight. I'll see if I raise the pedal height if the master cylinder's push rod has anything left to give though. If the clutch works a slightly high pedal will be the least of my worries.
 

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Just a quick update. I took a look at it again after work today. Adjusting the pedal height didn't matter, the master cylinder push rod is already 99% extended in it's current position. I had marked it's original position and put it back where it was.

Just for laughs I also took all the free play out of the pedal via the free play adjust screw (I wouldn't have left it like this even if it worked) but no dice.

No idea if this actually tells you the state of the hydraulic cylinders but I also put a C-Clamp around the slave and tried to lightly hit the pedal, rock solid. not springy like I would expect with air in the line or an internally leaking cylinder.

It may be my imagination, but when I start the car I think I can hear a mechanical noise that wasn't there before. looks like I'll be doing my clutch soon. I'm still happy to take suggestions if anyone has them.
 

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A few years back, I had a car where one of the damper springs in the clutch disk broke and fell into the pressure plate in front of the fingers causing the clutch to not disengage and be quite firm. It happens suddenly and with everything else OK much like yours. Let us know how it turns out.
 

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149684


This is probably the second to last update on this. cRAVe called it, a damper spring broke. The new clutch is in and I'll finish up tomorrow. I'll be sure to let you guys know how it went.
 

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Final update:

I'm back on the road!

I was able to get the transmission out without taking out the engine. However, if I didn't have a way to lift the car, the engine would probably have needed to be removed.

In the process of replacing the clutch I also did the following:

  • Replaced a leaking seal in my power steering system
  • Replaced clutch master and slave cylinder
  • Fixed a coolant leak that I didn't know about
  • Replaced both front CV axles
  • Changed an EVAP system valve that would have otherwise been hard to get to
  • Changed some vacuum lines that were getting brittle.
  • Got an alignment
I plan on doing the following within the month:
  • New Aisin timing belt / water pump / thermostat kit
  • Replacing all 4 soft brake lines.
  • A rear brake job
  • New spark plugs and wires
  • New air filter
  • New Radiator hoses
with 142k miles she should live for a long time yet.

149736
 

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View attachment 149684

This is probably the second to last update on this. cRAVe called it, a damper spring broke. The new clutch is in and I'll finish up tomorrow. I'll be sure to let you guys know how it went.
i
View attachment 149684

This is probably the second to last update on this. cRAVe called it, a damper spring broke. The new clutch is in and I'll finish up tomorrow. I'll be sure to let you guys know how it went.
I had the a similar issue with my 97 AWD a few years go. With about 60k on a clutch I installed, it stopped engaging, the clutch showed a crack in the housing where one of the springs attaches. I'm fairly certain it was an asian clutch made in japan that failed, but I'm not 100% sure
 
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