Refurbed ecu cause the Toyota one is a over priced piece of trash I would never buy any other refurbed parts as a computer tech I know a board can be made better with good techs and also know Toyota has dropped majorly in quality last decade and will not own up to it so I will never pay 1500 for a brand new ECU
Yes, if the RAV has an immobilizer. No start with no codes. Check to make immobilizer recognizes key (security light goes out). Rarely ECU. Could be no fuel. Sometimes a shorted (intermittant) injector will do this... shuts down ECU immediately to protect it and so fast that no codes are even stored. Remove plug to each injector one at a time and see if it will sputter or try to start. Code should be set for each one disconnected. If not, there is some kind of electrical short causing ECU to shut down (de-power). Check for rodent chewing on wiring harness. There are many other possibilities and when you get one like this it can take hours of troubleshooting. That is why Toyota can't figure it out. Almost all dealer techs are trained to use their Techstream computer to tell them where the problem area is at but with no information from their computers, they are clueless. This RAV needs someone who can go beyond a dealership tech.
Yes, if the RAV has an immobilizer. No start with no codes. Check to make immobilizer recognizes key (security light goes out). Rarely ECU. Could be no fuel. Sometimes a shorted (intermittant) injector will do this... shuts down ECU immediately to protect it and so fast that no codes are even stored. Remove plug to each injector one at a time and see if it will sputter or try to start. Code should be set for each one disconnected. If not, there is some kind of electrical short causing ECU to shut down (de-power). Check for rodent chewing on wiring harness. There are many other possibilities and when you get one like this it can take hours of troubleshooting. That is why Toyota can't figure it out. Almost all dealer techs are trained to use their Techstream computer to tell them where the problem area is at but with no information from their computers, they are clueless. This RAV needs someone who can go beyond a dealership tech.
2003 rav4 2.0 2wd car drove fine for years then I moved from Ca to Tn it sat for a few months cause I had to come back for it parents drove it and it was fine tell they got here I got in it filled up tank then it started sputtering then eventually just wouldnt start again this happened in a hour and I pulled it out of a tow yard someone and just had motor and tranny put in it other parts installed were recommended by toyota mechs
So was this the first attempt after you replaced the engine, tranny, ECU and the other stuff you listed. Was the engine the same year as old engine. Could be a unconnected sensor or device.
So was this the first attempt after you replaced the engine, tranny, ECU and the other stuff you listed. Was the engine the same year as old engine. Could be a unconnected sensor or device.
Shot in the dark, but on rare occasions, the starter will draw so much juice, the there is nothing left to tun the ignition or injection system. The ECU will not operate under a certain voltage. Could be as simple as an internally corroded red battery cable. Might be worth a try to put on a different cable. Then again . . . .
Toyota dealership is less then worthless the one in Cookeville tn I will never use them again $525 dollars and car runs worse then before I took it in I guess they have a billboard in town thats been up for 2 years saying how crappy they are too
So I have replaced Idle air control valve ,fuel pump ,fuel pump regulator ,fuel filter ,ecu and cam shaft sensor and fuel relay fuse still nothing working engine turns over but not gas is not getting to engine to run also disconnected alarm completely removed it as well I am going to blow threw lines with air compressor and replace all fuel injectors any ideas on what else I can do I ordered new coils too engine is getting plenty of spark just bought them cause I have 4 different types
Do you have a way to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail when cranking? Is there a fuel pump relay you could bypass to force power to the fuel pump? .... just a couple of suggestions there. Also, since you found a rodents nest, you might have a wire chewed into somewhere. I am assuming you checked the compression to be sure all your cam timing is proper. I have seen slipped timing belts or chains cause a lot of frustration, but generally there is a code stored in the ECU.
Do you have a way to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail when cranking? Is there a fuel pump relay you could bypass to force power to the fuel pump? .... just a couple of suggestions there. Also, since you found a rodents nest, you might have a wire chewed into somewhere. I am assuming you checked the compression to be sure all your cam timing is proper. I have seen slipped timing belts or chains cause a lot of frustration, but generally there is a code stored in the ECU.
Yeah sadly I have zero codes I am gonna do the pressure check after if I can it doesn't really give me any way to check it no pressure release valve so when I get the fuel injectors off I will use a air compressor to blow through the tubes to make sure they are clean before I plug in the new injectors I had all timing checked at Toyota dealership bud sadly I can not trust those idiots to do anything so if vehicle does not start after I install new injectors I will take car to nashville to better mechanic for a $400 dollar diagnostic from a reputable place
I'm sad for you because you're wasting time and money on this... trying to change any piece you're thinking about. Any good tech is supposed to resolve this problem in a few hours. The 3 base elements that are needed to make an engine running are compression, fuel and spark. If one is missing, it will never fire. A good tech will print the complete engine wiring diagram, and check every power/ground at each ECU pins and sensors. With a good code reader; he will also see every sensors' data in real time and see if something is wrong.
The Good mechanic found out it was a bad solenoid in my transmission went out ordered parts off of ebay for 90 bucks 5 piece kit might as well replace them all right
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