[KILLMAGRUDER]

I am taking it upon myself to change my rear brake pads. My car is at 80k miles. My question is, when do I know to change my rotors? And when I change my pads, do the rotors have to be resurfaced??? The service writer at Toyota mentioned them being resurfaced when they gave a price for changing the pads, but never specified whether or not they NEEDED to be done.

 

[BMR]

You’ll get varying opinions about resurfacing rotors. Some will insist they must be for the new pads to bed-in properly. In my experience, they don’t have to be done, if there isn’t any pulsing from the brakes. I’ve simply replaced pads-only numerous times without issue.

Are you sure the rear pads are done with only 80k miles? That’s kinda soon. I’ve had rear pads go for 200k on my ‘92 Camry and my ‘96 Avalon. My 2015 Rav is still on its original pads at 95k. Honestly, I haven’t even looked at them yet to see how much pad thickness is left.

 

[KILLMAGRUDER]

You’ll get varying opinions about resurfacing rotors. Some will insist they must be for the new pads to bed-in properly. In my experience, they don’t have to be done, if there isn’t any pulsing from the brakes. I’ve simply replaced pads-only numerous times without issue.

Are you sure the rear pads are done with only 80k miles? That’s kinda soon. I’ve had rear pads go for 200k on my ‘92 Camry and my ‘96 Avalon. My 2015 Rav is still on its original pads at 95k. Honestly, I haven’t even looked at them yet to see how much pad thickness is left.

When I brought it in for an oil change, they inspected everything and said my rear brakes were at 4mm. Rather than waiting for them to get in the danger zone, I'm going to replace them now.

 

[Foryota]

When I brought it in for an oil change, they inspected everything and said my rear brakes were at 4mm. Rather than waiting for them to get in the danger zone, I'm going to replace them now.

The shop’s “danger zone” is overly alarmist. In your manual you can see that the replacement thickness is 1.5-1.0 mm. At 4mm there still LOTS of life left on those pads, as long as nothing else is off about them. Even Toyota dealers will use the colour coded brake pad sales tool - and it is a sales tool, that’s what the parts reps call it. But based on the published spec included with each RAV, they are advising to change much too soon.

That said, if you don’t want to run lower than 3.0mm (where their danger zone starts, AKA replace now) then you can change them with confidence. As to your original question RE rotors, there might be enough meat on the rotors to turn them, but not always. I generally played it safe and replaced mine, and shops in my area don’t like to resurface anyway - ties up a hoist while in progress. If the rotors are over the min spec for resurfacing (stamped on the inside) then consider doing it.


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[Jack Daniels]

I've not bothered to re surface any rotors for the last 20 yrs or so because the thickness of most rotors is just not enough.
A typical rotor can be 28.0 mm new thickness and the minimum thickness just 26.0. So if the rotor is partially worn and then resurfaced then the thickness may end up at just a shade over 26.0mm which is close to minimum. This will function just fine however the rotors will then end up under minimum thickness well before the new pads are worn out.

Pads can de-laminate and just fall apart too due to age and corrosion too, so using them all the way down to 1.5mm or so is ok only if you keep an eye on them. I wouldn't depart on a long road trip with near minimum pad thickness. For folks who cover high milages then the pads will probably wear thin well before corrosion is an issue, though for those who's pads last for years corrosion/de-lamination may well be the killer not thin friction material.

milage on the car is no indication of when the parts need changing either due to stop start, mountainous, flat freeway driving and driving on salted roads all being different. I usually just replace both pads and rotors with new parts so I know they will last years to come with no further intervention required.

 

[ravster2015]

I did the front pads on my 2015 Rav LE. I measured the rotor thickness and they both where still good within spec. I had no pulsating or vibration from them when I used the brakes. I did not resurface them. I just put Toyota pads on and everything is working well.

 

[KILLMAGRUDER]

I ended up ordering a digital caliper last night and I'll check the specs and whatnot and see what the thickness is currently at. I bought the car at 55k miles a little over a year and a half ago. I may end up changing then when I do the pads, which will be interesting. I've never done any kind of brake work before. The most I've done is change the bulbs in my headlamps, change an engine air filter, did an oil change on my first truck. So I'm not really mechanical. But, there's YouTube and here to help

 

[Foryota]

I've not bothered to re surface any rotors for the last 20 yrs or so because the thickness of most rotors is just not enough.
A typical rotor can be 28.0 mm new thickness and the minimum thickness just 26.0. So if the rotor is partially worn and then resurfaced then the thickness may end up at just a shade over 26.0mm which is close to minimum. This will function just fine however the rotors will then end up under minimum thickness well before the new pads are worn out.

Pads can de-laminate and just fall apart too due to age and corrosion too, so using them all the way down to 1.5mm or so is ok only if you keep an eye on them. I wouldn't depart on a long road trip with near minimum pad thickness. For folks who cover high milages then the pads will probably wear thin well before corrosion is an issue, though for those who's pads last for years corrosion/de-lamination may well be the killer not thin friction material.

milage on the car is no indication of when the parts need changing either due to stop start, mountainous, flat freeway driving and driving on salted roads all being different. I usually just replace both pads and rotors with new parts so I know they will last years to come with no further intervention required.

Thanks for expanding so well on what I’d written - I know I get wordy sometimes and ended up truncating my comment.

I do keep an eye on my pads, so I can run it close to the spec. Toyota does recommend brake servicing on a regular basis, which would have a tech keep an eye out for any issues, but most people who don’t do their own work will not see the value in paying for the brake service (I wouldn’t either, given prices in my area).


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[paperboy]

The little grooves and ridges give the pads more surface to grip to.
I have always done my own brakes . . . the self adjusting drum and shoe types are a PITA . . . and I have only changed one drum in the last 60+ years.
Just be aware that the braking grip will improve quickly. Always do a slow, short drive in a "safe" space as soon as you do any brake repair.
PS: Thanks for using BRAKE instead of BREAK.

 

[KILLMAGRUDER]

The little grooves and ridges give the pads more surface to grip to.
I have always done my own brakes . . . the self adjusting drum and shoe types are a PITA . . . and I have only changed one drum in the last 60+ years.
Just be aware that the braking grip will improve quickly. Always do a slow, short drive in a "safe" space as soon as you do any brake repair.
PS: Thanks for using BRAKE instead of BREAK.

🤣 i take it you see "break" used instead of "brake" quite a bit? I just it as more reasonable to do my own brakes, rather than spending $250+ at the dealership as more of a convenience. And with money being a little tight, I might as well learn!

 

[NameofUser]

It is BEST practice to resurface. BUT, each person has their own outlook for that.
Some people just measure thickness of rotors with a digital caliper to determine that it is ABOVE minimum thickness stamped on the rotor somewhere.
Some people just replace rotors whenever doing new pads (front or rear) instead of resurfacing rotors (front or rear); the costs of some NEW rotors is very reasonable vs the time and possible costs waiting for rotors to be resurfaced. So autoparts stores will trun rotors for free when you buy pads from them.
Your call, but rational for resurfacing is to give the NEW pads a completely flat surface immediately. If buying new rotors, the surface should be completely flat.

Rent a run-out tool from a National auto parts chain store (ie Autozone); deposit is refunded upon return of the tool. Measure the runout of your current rear rotors if you plan to reuse them. Doesn't hurt to measure runout on NEW rotors, as the quality/control might be bad.

Its always good to save money and work on your vehicle. Just use quality parts from a reputable source. Lots of fakes on fleaBay and Amazon.

 

[RoLleRKoaSTeR]

Another thing to look for is discoloration in the rotor surface themselves. Streaks of blue is not a good sign - overheating. I is not difficult to change the rotors on the rear axle. It looks much more difficult on the newer Rav4s that have electronic parking brakes (not looking forward to doing this on my C-HR).

I have installed Hawk Talon rotors on all corners on my 2018 XLE Rav4 and with Hawk HPS pads.

 

[Jack Daniels]

Toyota does recommend brake servicing on a regular basis...

Toyota dealers in my area are somewhat secretive about what they actually do or have done during services. What exactly is the scope of work for their recommended brake service? does it including any disassembly or lubrication?

I've been told that fluid replacement every 24 mths is specified.

 

[Foryota]

Toyota dealers in my area are somewhat secretive about what they actually do or have done during services. What exactly is the scope of work for their recommended brake service? does it including any disassembly or lubrication?

I've been told that fluid replacement every 24 mths is specified.

The brake inspection they usually include with regular maintenance is generally a visual inspection only. A service (in my experience, and as I performed for customers) involves removing the pads and cleaning the mounting surfaces as well as measuring the pad and rotor thickness.

In Canada, Toyota says 4 years before the initial brake fluid change, then every 2-3 following. VW is more stringent - 3 years at first, then every two years.


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[Big Daddy]

I am pretty sure a brake service only involves a visual check, perhaps take out the calipers to measure the rotor if they look worn. The reason for my answer is many moons age I had Honda Civic, took it in for a service, & was offered a break inspection, asked what that was, answer came back visual inspection, the service guy was not impressed when I told him I could do that for $60.00. A full disasembly lube etc was in the $200, in those days, which I did myself with the help of Service Manuel,

 

[Foryota]

I am pretty sure a brake service only involves a visual check, perhaps take out the calipers to measure the rotor if they look worn. The reason for my answer is many moons age I had Honda Civic, took it in for a service, & was offered a break inspection, asked what that was, answer came back visual inspection, the service guy was not impressed when I told him I could do that for $60.00. A full disasembly lube etc was in the $200, in those days, which I did myself with the help of Service Manuel,

Disassemble and lube/reassemble is the proper service, at least with the dealer shops I worked in, and it was billed accordingly. Inspection was exactly that - visual only, which is why they “include” it on tire rotations. Anyone charging $60 back then for a visual is soaking their customers.


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[KILLMAGRUDER]

Rear driver side rotor looks fine and it's still thicker than the minimum 10.5! One down, one to go!

 

[Foryota]

Rear driver side rotor looks fine and it's still thicker than the minimum 10.5! One down, one to go! View attachment 178572
View attachment 178571
View attachment 178573

Good for a start. Just watch out though because that type of caliper (I use the same one) will only get the wider part - the edges which are not swept by the pads. When there is a notable lip, I use a pair of washers or a feeler gauge strip to make up the difference to the swept (polished) surface to get around the edge which is much wider. Then of course I deduct the spacers from the measurement.


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[KILLMAGRUDER]

Good for a start. Just watch out though because that type of caliper (I use the same one) will only get the wider part - the edges which are not swept by the pads. When there is a notable lip, I use a pair of washers or a feeler gauge strip to make up the difference to the swept (polished) surface to get around the edge which is much wider. Then of course I deduct the spacers from the measurement.


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So I used the end of the caliper to measure the depth as well! I've been doing some reading and video watching 😁 even with the depth subtracted, it's still at about 11.3mm!

 

[KILLMAGRUDER]

So I used the end of the caliper to measure the depth as well! I've been doing some reading and video watching 😁 even with the depth subtracted, it's still at about 11.3mm!

I'm sorry, I mean 11.4mm