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Ok, now on to the other reason I had to drop the diff out, a stripped differential fill bolt:
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And I was careful, I knew this could happen! It's in a tough spot with not much room to maneuver tools. That gash you see on it was from me trying to use an air chisel to vibrate it out, no luck! Heat didn't work either! Mofo!

So I went to my second to the last resort, pounding in a T60 torx socket. (last resort is welding a socket on)
This actually worked very well. Took a few hammer hits to pound it in.
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Once in, it only took 1 medium hit with a hammer and loose it came! Thank god! I actually think pounding in the socket helped loosen it as well.

Anyway, these are my tips. Again I want to say thanks to the original poster, he may not be a mechanic but has good knowledge! Also to everyone else posting tips!
 

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JerryIrons, that is one rusty vent valve. I guess you did not read my tip about making sure you don't round the hex hole by using a hammer to get the hex bit all the way in.
 

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I didn't read your tip, but actually used a pick to clean out the hole beforehand, as well as tapping in the hex socket with a hammer. I have an 06 traiblazer with the same type of filler bolt used so am used to these things being finicky. First time I've ever stripped one actually. It's kind of in an odd spot and not real easy to put good tension on it.
 

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I didn't read your tip, but actually used a pick to clean out the hole beforehand, as well as tapping in the hex socket with a hammer. I have an 06 traiblazer with the same type of filler bolt used so am used to these things being finicky. First time I've ever stripped one actually. It's kind of in an odd spot and not real easy to put good tension on it.
If it is the filler bolt you need to put a two inch socket extension to get a better position. If you don't want to repeat this happening again put in a hex bolt instead of those stupid Toyota bolt. A 18 mm x 1.5 bolt will fit perfectly. (Dorman 65220)
 

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That's what I used as well, a two inch socket extension. It's just life here in western ny with how much rust we get, remember my pic of the top of the diff? When I did the drain plug I actually heard it crack free. Also, and more importantly, I let it go too long, it's partly my own fault. But your suggestion is excellent about the dorman bolt, thank you!
 

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Yep I have a 1/2 in ingersoll rand in my arsenal as well. But because of the physical location and low visibility of that fill bolt, I actually had thought I was removing it when in reality I was stripping it. And pulled out the impact driver with an air chisel to try getting it out. At that point I knew I had to drop the differential anyway to replace the breather and seals, so just decided to try out a torx which I never had before.

But you are right, one of my most favorite tools is the impact driver, in fact I just changed a front wheel bearing and removed that axle spindle nut right off with it. Tried by hand briefly and said Oh F this, time for the impact :)
 

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JerryIrons, that is one rusty vent valve. I guess you did not read my tip about making sure you don't round the hex hole by using a hammer to get the hex bit all the way in.
Just a final note on this thread, another tip for anyone else. If anybody else goes the torx route, I wonder if a T55 might work better. A T50 is definitely too small. I used a T60 which worked fine, but had to hammer it in. But again the act of pounding that bolt in the hole may very well have loosened up the threads.

Other thing is this, I just did a fluid change on my transfer case, which has the same scenario. Actually the fill bolt in that is more protected, so it wasn't as rusty as I was expecting. Also I could get slightly more leverage it seems. Anyway, I took my hex socket, and used an angle grinder to grind away at the bottom "rounded" section, so that it created a nice square edge, just like an allen wrench end looks. Put penetrating oil around the bolt threads, cleaned the hole out with a small screwdriver, tapped it down into the hole as best I could, used a breaker bar, put as much tension as I could on it with one hand, held my breath and gave it a sharp hit with a 3 or 5 lb hammer. Came loose one shot. I think I actually said oh thank you god when I saw it was loose :)
 

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Just a final note on this thread, another tip for anyone else. If anybody else goes the torx route, I wonder if a T55 might work better. A T50 is definitely too small. I used a T60 which worked fine, but had to hammer it in. But again the act of pounding that bolt in the hole may very well have loosened up the threads.

Other thing is this, I just did a fluid change on my transfer case, which has the same scenario. Actually the fill bolt in that is more protected, so it wasn't as rusty as I was expecting. Also I could get slightly more leverage it seems. Anyway, I took my hex socket, and used an angle grinder to grind away at the bottom "rounded" section, so that it created a nice square edge, just like an allen wrench end looks. Put penetrating oil around the bolt threads, cleaned the hole out with a small screwdriver, tapped it down into the hole as best I could, used a breaker bar, put as much tension as I could on it with one hand, held my breath and gave it a sharp hit with a 3 or 5 lb hammer. Came loose one shot. I think I actually said oh thank you god when I saw it was loose :)
I found the transfer case fill bolt was very easy to take out. The trick was to use an allen key and cut it so it was 1/2 inch wide. I then use a small diameter pipe at the end to make the allen key longer so I had more torque. My modified tool work very well and I did not need to bang it with a hammer like you did. That area is very tight with little room to work with so an ordinary allen wrench socket will not work.
 
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